Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Aug 15, 2013 11:31:35 GMT -6
Parts guy is technically correct. The resistor is usually 5kohm and its purpose is to reduce noise in electronic equipment, such as radios and engine control modules. The D8EA would work, but may get a whine if you use your stereo often.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Aug 15, 2013 7:07:09 GMT -6
I removed mine the week I brought it home. Same result. I had discovered it had blown the fuse when I started it using the fob. It would still start every time with the fob only, but wouldn't key start until I replaced the fuse.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Aug 15, 2013 7:02:23 GMT -6
Damin, so now that it's done, how much needed to be replaced? You posted a link for the parts in the other thread. Was that where you ended up getting what you needed? And lastly, where did you end up finding the gearbox cover?
I discovered when drilling out a broken bolt, that the metal used to make the engine block and gearbox melts at a very low temp. Even though you religiously changed your gearbox fluid, it didn't take much to melt that cover. My guess is that's what started it, when it melted, it allowed too much play which ate the teeth off.
Kudos on the repair.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on May 24, 2013 11:21:38 GMT -6
Hey dhull, I haven't been on in a bit and just saw your PM Sorry bout that.
I would say that 15 is still too high, but your idle volts are fine. Since it's been two weeks, what have you seen? Has the battery run hot at all? If it is running hot, my best guess would be the R/R. If it was running that high in an automotive charging system, the regulator is where to start at. I have always replaced regulators if they're dramatically over 14 volts, like over 14.5 or so.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on May 24, 2013 7:45:51 GMT -6
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on May 24, 2013 7:33:07 GMT -6
Here is how Florida law treats what we call scooters:
(22) MOTORCYCLE.—Any motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider and designed to travel on not more than three wheels in contact with the ground, but excluding a tractor or a moped.
(82) MOTORIZED SCOOTER.—Any vehicle not having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider, designed to travel on not more than three wheels, and not capable of propelling the vehicle at a speed greater than 30 miles per hour on level ground.
As you can see, we technically ride motorcyles, not scooters. The 'scooter' ,as the law sees it, is a skateboard with a handle, the typical Razor for instance.
Look in your state law and see if it is defined similarly. If it is, see how your HOA treats motorcycle parking. The HOA board may still be a butt about it, even if you prove it's a motorcycle. But, it's worth a shot.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Apr 11, 2013 8:53:47 GMT -6
The saga continues... Here's the big problem, though. The other day after riding about 25 minutes, I started getting a strong sulfur smell. It was so strong that it got overwhelming when I would stop and sit at a traffic light. I rode again yesterday and got the same smell after about 25 minutes of riding. I stopped at the bank and when i came out, the bike didn't have enough battery power to crank at all. I opened the seat, unscrewed the battery cover and it was all wet on the underside from the battery acid, which had been spitting out the little vent holes. I touched the battery and it was HOT. There was steam coming out of the vent holes. I jump-started the bike a couple of ours later and it continued to idle after I disconnected the jumper cables, but just sputtered when I turned the throttle. Your battery experienced thermal runaway. The sulfur smell is a dead giveaway. That was the electrolyte boiling. The battery begins to overheat, most likely from too much R/R voltage. The heat reduces the internal resistance of the battery, causing more current flow. Current flow causes more heat until the battery gives. You're lucky it was a battery with caps on it. Had it been a sealed battery, it would have exploded. You can still use the generic 9Ah or so battery from Walmart. But, when you first start it up, check the voltage across the terminals. The LED conversion may have upped the VDC to over 14 volts. If it did, it'll burn your new battery as well. You may end up needing a resistor to drop some voltage, getting it back down to 12.75 to 13.25 or so. |
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Apr 10, 2013 14:16:11 GMT -6
Are you absolutely positive the noise is from the engine? The reason I ask is a few including myself have had issues with the clutch pads that engage the rear drive wheel. Mine sounded like rocks in a coffee can at lower throttle but went away under power. I did a thorough cleaning of the clutch pads and bell housing. The problem never returned.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Apr 9, 2013 10:27:16 GMT -6
I don't know if you have the same setup as my JCL 250, but I get to my tail lights through a cover located inside the underseat storage. Two 10mm screws and it pulls right out.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Apr 4, 2013 7:33:08 GMT -6
Alley, I think what bob was saying is that your pic shows the plug, since it's of the right side of the horizontal engine.
Richard's pic of the horizontal engine is from the left side, thus not showing the location of the plug.
Some youtuber made a video walkaround of his JCL. Around 3 minutes in, you can see where he cut an access hole into the plastic.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Mar 21, 2013 10:31:31 GMT -6
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Mar 13, 2013 9:55:02 GMT -6
It is not his CDI in question it is he Regulator/Rectifier which is the one that charges the battery that feeds some of the lights. Alleyoop Thanks. You're right. I did mean to say R/R. Don't know why I said CDI.  |
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Mar 12, 2013 13:44:42 GMT -6
The voltages altogether are not thrilling, but not terrible either. My biggest concern is #6. The turn signals and high beams shouldn't lower it that much. My thought is that at a red light with a turn signal on, then the fan comes on, that it may drop below the battery's level. All that depends on how Lars drives. More red lights, lower charge. More higher revs, higher charge.
While I'm not advocating a CDI change yet, it is something to keep in mind. The problem is that with levels this close to acceptable, the CDI would not test all that bad.
Perhaps a change to LED's would give more leftover voltage for charging.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Mar 7, 2013 9:42:19 GMT -6
I know this is over-simplifying it, but for the battery to charge, the R/R must output something higher than what the battery has naturally. If the battery has 12.5vdc with nothing attached, only something higher will charge. Anything lower will drain.
I said all that to agree that JR's instructions are the best place to start.
Check 3 voltages:
1: ignition off
2: idle
3: around 5k RPM
If 2 and 3 measurements are not higher than 1, then you're draining.
While it's not called an alternator in this case, the stator and R/R perform the same function as a car alternator.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 138
A+'s: 0
Joined: Aug 7, 2012 8:24:21 GMT -6
|
Post by wheezy on Mar 5, 2013 8:23:25 GMT -6
Be careful when choosing what to put on the vinyl seat. When I first got mine, I put Armor-All on it, since that is what I had laying around. Almost slid right off the seat when I rode it.  As far as the windscreen, I live in Florida, and have had not problems with discoloration. Again, be choosy what you get for this, as things that work on glass sometimes will fog the plastic. If you get something you've got questions about, remove the cowling and test an area that would normally be covered. The best for both though would be a good breathable rain cover. |
|
