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Post by larsliederhausen on Mar 7, 2013 1:08:32 GMT -6
Good day everyone, I've been sick almost 2 mos and thank GOD I'm still alive and survived that respiratory virus the seems to hospitalize us asthmatics. Now that I'm alive and dancing I've been back on my scooter 2012 Jonway yy250t-54b. Just a couple days ago i was having trouble starting it at work then when i stopped by the post office it would start back up. I charged the battery and was able to drive it home Ive been charging it every night last 2 nights and when i start it at work it has a hard time starting. I took it to checker and they tested the battery said its 100% healthy but when they tried to measure the charging system it said there was no charge found. The rep said its either a main fuse or my alternator. First off I thought my main fuse was the bus fuse going from the battery to the starter solenoid? I need to know could this be a fuse issue and if so where is this bloody thing? Also I would assume like cars they would have an alternator but I honestly don't know. Does this bike have an alternator and where is this thing located? Please help, Thank you.
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Post by justbuggin2 on Mar 7, 2013 1:20:04 GMT -6
ok if the main fuse was bad it would no start now you bike has what is called a stator in the motor and a reg/retifier now if you start the bike on the center stand at idle you should have around 12 to 13 volts at the battery when you give it some gas to get the rpms up to around 4000 rpms then you should have 14 to15 volts across the battery do you have a meter to test it with?
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 7, 2013 1:23:45 GMT -6
If you charge the battery and everything works it is NOT A FUSE. A bad Fuse would not work even with a good charged battery. Sounds like maybe it is your REGULATOR/RECTIFIER that is the part that CHARGES YOUR BATTERY it appears it has gone bad since everything else works. The scooter starts runs. Get yourself a VOLT METER from say Harbor Freight they are about $10.00 they come in handy to find electrical problems on the scoot. Then you can test the battery and charging system and anything else on the scoot. And other good thing to get is a 12V LIGHT TEST they are very easy to use just ground the wire and with the point check the wires for juice etc. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Mar 7, 2013 6:41:36 GMT -6
When you get the volt meter put it on the center stand fire her up and check the voltage across the battery terminals, it should read between 12.5 and 13.0Vdc+ at idle and then rev it to around 5k RPM, it should go above 14Vdc easily. Get back with us after your results.
JR
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 7, 2013 8:49:15 GMT -6
I bet the voltage will be low. I would start with stator ac output out of ckt.
John
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Post by wheezy on Mar 7, 2013 9:42:19 GMT -6
I know this is over-simplifying it, but for the battery to charge, the R/R must output something higher than what the battery has naturally. If the battery has 12.5vdc with nothing attached, only something higher will charge. Anything lower will drain.
I said all that to agree that JR's instructions are the best place to start.
Check 3 voltages: 1: ignition off 2: idle 3: around 5k RPM
If 2 and 3 measurements are not higher than 1, then you're draining.
While it's not called an alternator in this case, the stator and R/R perform the same function as a car alternator.
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Post by terrilee on Mar 7, 2013 10:47:59 GMT -6
alternator, stator, or magneto
w/e you call it, on a scoot its NOT 1/4 of the way as strong as in a car, correct?
like a car alternator will charge a battery up a lot faster than a scoot, right?
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Post by larsliederhausen on Mar 11, 2013 23:33:35 GMT -6
Hello everyone thankyou for the help so far. Friday night I put a charger trickle charge on scooter and left it there til Monday morning. I made multiple stops today and sometimes it gave me a hard time starting. I put the volt meter up and here are the results: 1. bike off - 12.36 2. at Idle - 12.84-12.85 3. held throttle at 5k rpms - 13.06 4. at Idle after holding throttle - 12.94-12.95 5 Idle w high beams - 12.90 6. Idle w high beams and left turn signal - It would jump around and keep getting lower, lowest was 12.66 before I stopped it. 7. idle after shutting off high beams and turn signal - 12.84-12.85
What's next?
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Post by justbuggin2 on Mar 12, 2013 7:31:55 GMT -6
OK the voltages are on the lower side of what i like at the 5k rpms so what i would do is go through the bike grounds for the motor and chassis i would start at the battery and replace all the terminals for both side of the battery and then all of them on the grounds
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 12, 2013 12:58:48 GMT -6
His charging might not be the best but that is enough juice to turn the motor over for starting.
What it needs is some adjustment so the motor when it rotates a couple of times it fires right up. Right now he has to crank and crank before it fires WHICH is not good it is out of adjustment.
The Valves are tight and he is loosen compression and or the Carb needs to be adjusted. This will feed the right amount of fuel and air and if it sparks it will fire right up. Alleyoop
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Mar 12, 2013 13:44:42 GMT -6
The voltages altogether are not thrilling, but not terrible either. My biggest concern is #6. The turn signals and high beams shouldn't lower it that much. My thought is that at a red light with a turn signal on, then the fan comes on, that it may drop below the battery's level. All that depends on how Lars drives. More red lights, lower charge. More higher revs, higher charge.
While I'm not advocating a CDI change yet, it is something to keep in mind. The problem is that with levels this close to acceptable, the CDI would not test all that bad.
Perhaps a change to LED's would give more leftover voltage for charging.
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 12, 2013 15:15:24 GMT -6
It is not his CDI in question it is he Regulator/Rectifier which is the one that charges the battery that feeds some of the lights. Alleyoop
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Post by justbuggin2 on Mar 12, 2013 21:31:30 GMT -6
i agree that the voltage is aceptable but they are on the low side improving the current path with good connectors will reduce the resistance and will help the charging system to work at its best and you do have a good point to have everthing turned up so it fires up quickly is all ways a good thing and changing as many of the lights to LEDs will help
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Post by wheezy on Mar 13, 2013 9:55:02 GMT -6
It is not his CDI in question it is he Regulator/Rectifier which is the one that charges the battery that feeds some of the lights. Alleyoop Thanks. You're right. I did mean to say R/R. Don't know why I said CDI.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 13, 2013 19:35:47 GMT -6
what happens when your cooling fan go's on . or is the cooling fan on all the time ?
John
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