Junior
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Post by wheezy on Dec 3, 2015 9:29:40 GMT -6
Bob, I've read all your post to date and have a couple of thoughts. I saw you had adjusted the idle speed and replaced the carb. What setting is the idle/air mixture screw? From some things you've said (uncontrollable idle, extremely high head temp, backfire) it sounds as if you are running way too lean. That would lead to too much air or too little fuel, things like vacuum hoses, faulty fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or hose, air leak around intake manifold. I've even seen a loose enricher (choke) leak air by the gasket seal. I know you've replaced some of that, but it's worth a thorough end-to-end intake inspection for air leaks. I haven't seen anything electrical ever cause this.
Speaking of the enricher, you're reading the internal heating coil resistance, your 7 ohms is fine. You do want it warmed before you adjust idle mix and speed. Mine takes a minute or so of running to fully warmup.
For you and elpee, the designation 172MM designates the 250 motor. 172 is the bore, first M for motorcycle, 2nd M for 250cc. I pay more attention to type when I order parts, (Linhai 257 for mine, I go with VOG 260 parts).
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 10, 2015 16:53:46 GMT -6
JR, if I am reading his posts correctly, he has voltage on both sides of the diode. This may be perfectly normal, depending on the circumstances. Here's why.
If the bike is running, you have rectifier output on the anode lead of the diode. Whether the bike is running or not, you should have battery voltage on the cathode side (unless the 20A fuse is blown). If carefulrider is checking for voltage with the bike running, voltage will APPEAR on both sides. In normal operation, the diode will switch on when the anode lead voltage is higher than the cathode. This allows the R/R to charge the battery, but prevents drain on the battery if the R/R fails to output enough voltage.
This seems similar to insanetexan's issue. My thought is that the voltage regulator is either not shunting excess voltage to ground correctly, or the ground lead that it uses to shunt the voltage is open or high resistance. When this shunt circuit doesn't work correctly, the excess voltage will seek out the best ground it can, and that seems to be through the lighting circuit, as that is the connector everyone reports melting. If the ground lead from the R/R measures short to the chassis, I would replace the R/R.
A question I have, based on this wiring diagram, is why they designed a 3A fuse for the horn circuit, but no fuse for the lights? I wonder what current that light circuit is reading when the connector gets hot. I would bet it's over 15 amps. I don't think the lighting switch was designed for that. 25-35 Watts for each headlight plus about 20 Watts worth of running lights only equals between 4-5 Amps on a normal basis.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 5, 2015 6:54:43 GMT -6
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 2, 2015 12:08:15 GMT -6
JR has a point. I cannot think of any circumstance in which it is good to have fuel IN your vacuum line. That teaspoon of fuel would dampen any vacuum input to the pump.
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Post by wheezy on Jan 18, 2015 15:08:17 GMT -6
Got everything back together and back on the road. I took the opportunity while the plastic was off to tweak the fuel mixture, which needed to be done for awhile. It would run just a bit too rich at warmup, engaging the clutch a bit. I put 12g Dr. Pulley sliders and a new Gates 856 belt. Everyone is so right. I gained a ton in low end torque, and may have gained a couple mph at top end. I got about 72-73 cmph. Now it just needs a bath. Weather is improving here in central Florida. Mid 70's, sun's out. Nice.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Jan 15, 2015 18:17:51 GMT -6
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Jan 11, 2015 14:56:06 GMT -6
According to scrappydogscooters, the 828 is correct. But, according to absolutelyscooterparts .net, the 828 is only for 10 inch rear wheels. The 918 would be for the 13 inch wheel. My 257cc Linhai uses 856 and (rarely) 871, so you can rule those out.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Jan 9, 2015 16:39:32 GMT -6
I had a weird experience with jclusa. I placed my order, where it sat in a 'pending' status for two days. They never asked for payment info. So, I called the number from the site, and a computer began asking questions about my age and such, like it was a survey or something. I double checked I had the right number. So, I ordered a swingarm from powersportsbest.com, which I believe is a sister site of roketa.com. $121 including shipping. The bearing is really stuck in the old one, and I figured I would destroy it by trying to get it out. So I ordered one from ebay for 3 bucks. From what I have read, it takes a 6303-2rs. the 2rs means it is a sealed bearing. While I got her apart, I'm also replacing the belt with a new Gates, and upgrading to sliders.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Jan 9, 2015 16:30:28 GMT -6
Likely is the float level. But that adjustment is a can of worms you don't want to open if everything else is good. I played with mine when I had my cutoff at speed issue. It took me hours to get it back right. It is VERY sensitive.
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Post by wheezy on Jan 7, 2015 13:13:38 GMT -6
Thanks, JR. I talked to Jeff at FX. They don't have one, except for one that the seller only wants to sell the whole bike. He recommended calling Scrappy. Already have tried Scrappy, no luck there.
I will order it tomorrow morning from one of the two sites I mentioned earlier. For added security, I will be replacing the bearing as well.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Jan 6, 2015 16:17:33 GMT -6
It appears to be aluminum, or worse, aluminum alloy with cheaper metals. I am reluctant to have it welded. The jagged edges that remain would make a butt weld awkward. Plus, this part gets lots of the abuse from the rear wheel. I looked at some old pics and think I see the crack beginning to form over a year ago. I should have seen it long before now.
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Post by wheezy on Jan 6, 2015 9:14:56 GMT -6
A couple miles from home, I noticed the rear just did not feel right. Made it home and noticed that my swingarm had broken at BOTH motor mounts. The only things keeping it together were the wheel nut and shock absorber. So, I need a replacement. Found out it's not the easiest part in the world to find. I did find 3 sites that list it. Roketapartsdept wants $231. Too much. But Roketa.com and jclusa.com have them listed for much cheaper. Given the English is poor on both sites, I am concerned about questions or returns. Does anyone have experience with either roketa.com or jclusa.com? Thanks.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 31, 2014 5:55:53 GMT -6
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Oct 28, 2014 13:29:09 GMT -6
Thanks for the responses, I'll be getting the carb//valves to where they need to be and try to see if burping the cooling system will work. I came across this bolt after taking the plastic off of the bike. It's just above the starter motor under the front of the seat, pointing forward on the bike. I can't for the life of me figure out what this screwed into, or what it's purpose could be. So far I can't find any other threads or places for something to be attached.. any ideas of what went here and how I'd go about replacing it? In any case loctite would definitely be part of the equation! The other end of the bolt is held in place by another bolt going through it's side, giving it some wiggle, almost like a hinge. I can get more pictures if needed. That looks like the swing arm mount. It cushions the motor from the frame, but it's not in a place I am used to seeing it. On my JCL, it's connected to the large U-shaped frame crossmember under the seat. I'd have to see more pics from different angles (and behind) to see where it goes. It does look to me like it hasn't been missing for long. Otherwise, the cup would have the same road dust as the other frame pieces.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Sept 25, 2014 13:23:31 GMT -6
You said your fuel filter is half full. At what angle is it sitting? If it's not relatively level, it will develop an air bubble which grows until it starves the motor of gas. I know this because the exact same thing happened to me. What started with a defective pump became months of frustration, as I replaced the filter at the same time as the pump. I used the 3 inch length hose that came in the filter box. This changed the way the new filter sat, and I didn't notice the bubble until I finally rode with the skins off. Check your filter for level. Here is my pic of what it looks like when it's wrong:
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