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I giggled a bit too. Like a left handed screwdriver.

Seriously, though, my adjustable wrench has metric markings etched on one side and standard on the other, so they do make them.

In my homemade kit, i've got 7,8,10,13, and 19mm sockets, one long flat screwdriver, one medium Phillips with a magnetic tip (lifesaver), a small ratcheting screwdriver with bits for adjusting carb, diagonal cutting pliers, needle nose pliers, and some zip ties.

I also carry my old belt with me, as my new one is the standard generic, not the Gates belt. Just in case.

Well, the news is not good. The bearings in the swing arm and gearbox are in good shape. What is not in good shape is the rear wheel. The splines on the brake disk side are worn to almost nothing. The other side is still good, but it'll eventually go as well. The shaft splines are good. Might as well change the wheel now vs. later, since I don't want to end up stranded.

I have seen the link in the parts thread. The price is a little steep for my budget. Where has everyone gotten their replacement rear wheels?

Looks like that is green/white. If, by some miracle, the Chinese stuck to the color code, that could be the kill wire feeding either the kill switch or the alarm/remote starter.

Thanks, Alley. I will change them in that order if it keeps up. I worked on it again all weekend. I did find the timing marks. It appears they were just outside the window, maybe two degrees or so. I cracked open the crank cover to see if you could adjust the stator/pickup like you can on some GY6's (you can't  ). 

But, I did find a couple more things since then that all add up to the trouble.  I opened the air box, removed the filter, and placed my hand over the intake port.  Believe it or not, it not only didn't die, it idled better.  Just damn.  May have been too lean across the board.  I temporarily sealed off the two inputs to the air box from the charcoal canister and the camshaft cover.  Then I closed the airbox back up and placed tape over it's intake opening.  It still idles!!

Wow. Just wow.  I redid the clamp on the intake from the airbox to the carb.  It's nice and tight.  With the tape on, it idles but stalls when I open the throttle (I expected that.)  It's not a vacuum leak, but an air leak on the input to the carb.  I did test a vacuum leak and it stalled immediately.  Maybe I've been running lean throughout the whole throttle range because of this.

I rode it 15 miles yesterday and 45 miles to work today.  Seems to run better.  I have had it up to full speed a couple times with no stall.  We'll see.  But, I still gotta find where that extra air is coming from.

My scoot has been stalling now for over a month.  Each time I think I got her running good, the next day it proves me wrong.  So far I have:

-adjusted the valves, checked them two more times.
-cleaned and tuned carb.
-replaced all fuel and vacuum hoses.
-replaced fuel pump and filter.
-replaced charcoal canister with hose and fuel filter to eliminate tank vacuum.
-removed a ton of grease from the roller cavity, cleaned variator and clutch.
-checked brake pads and master cylinders for locking up.

It will stall the most close to 6000 rpm or higher now.  If I keep it around 55mph or lower, it runs rough, but doesn't stall.

So here's where I am now.  I removed the timing cap on the crankshaft and checked the timing with a good old fashioned inductive timing light.  The timing is supposed to fall between the two timing marks on the crank.  But, it's all over the place.  When it's off, the bike runs rough.  When it actually hits the mark, it sounds good.

It looks like I'm down to replacing the CDI, coil, or pickup.  But I don't want to guess if I don't have to.  Anyone out there had a similar issue? 

The difference being that there is only a wire between the diode output and the positive terminal of the battery.

Checking the battery and the output of the diode would be the same thing. Rich had already verified that voltage. Next in line would be the input.

And Rich, yes, all those measurements would be with the scoot running. Sometimes it's difficult to hold the leads and work the throttle, you may have to improvise something. I usually jam the leads into the connector.

Hey guys.  As you know I have had fuel issues in the last week, with stalling and hesitation and such.  I changed the filter and hoses, and adjusted the carb and valves.  I thought I had it licked, but it showed again when I tried riding to work.

I did notice something very odd when I started up at the gas station last week.  The fuel gauge went nuts, registering all over the place.  At the time I didn't think much, but then it all added up.  I suspected the fuel pump, and found a new Mikuni on Amazon for 20 bucks.  I put it on today, which gave me an opportunity to do a post-mortem on the old.  For those that don't know, vacuum driven pumps have two valves, one is closed when the other is open, then they switch, which forces fuel from intake to outlet.  I found the fuel intake valve had come unseated and misaligned, never getting fully closed.

This is where the gauge came in.  I did notice a pulse, almost like a heartbeat, in the fuel gauge.  Turns out as the pump would attempt to force fuel to the carb, the open valve allowed it to be pushed back into the tank, which made the fuel level fluctuate, which was indicated on the gauge itself.  The diaphragm of the pump was in good shape. 

Only after tearing it down did I realize I might have been able to fix it.  Still, 20 dollars was not money wasted for peace of mind.

Here are pics of the broken pump, as well as when I reseated that valve.  You can see the rubber seal in the first pic is not set right, and in the second the tabs of the valve poking out from the hold down bracket.