Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 22, 2014 8:38:14 GMT -6
Thanks, Alley. This time, I had added only one gallon, enough to get home and to the Racetrac where I usually fill up. We think alike, though, cause I did remove the gas cap for a bit while cranking, thinking it wasn't venting. Good idea about removing the evap system. One less potential vacuum leak.
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Post by wheezy on Feb 21, 2014 19:34:09 GMT -6
Scoot has been running very well until two days ago. I am riding my mp 250a about 45 miles each way to work, no real problems to speak of. Two days ago I stopped at a BP station I haven't visited before and filled her up. About 20 miles later, she cut off while approaching a red light, acted like it was starving for fuel. I was able to restart after five minutes of cranking. It's happened four times since. When it runs, it runs good, then bam no gas. I got good volts. My vacuum hoses look good, but I'm gonna change anyway. I'm going to clean the carb and spark plug tomorrow. But when I checked the fuel filter, it has some white solids by the output. So, tomorrow I'm getting a new filter as well.
So, that's my question. I'm thinking of getting a generic filter at wally world, and wonder where you all get your filters.
Thanks.
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Post by wheezy on Feb 10, 2014 8:07:21 GMT -6
Speed, I was able to test ride a 500i back in November at the AIM Expo in Orlando. Kymco had 8-10 scoots of various displacements, all the way up to 700. Nice. You could test ride any of them on an open road, 5 mile or so, escorted ride. Real good opportunity for anyone visiting Orlando in November. My only complaint was the seating position. I am 5'10'', with a 35 inch inseam, and the seating arrangement forces your knees more upright than your 250B. My knees were only an inch or two from the dash panel. A tidy bit uncomfortable on longer excursions I would think. If you prefer the more feet-forward position of the 250B, then consider a Burgman or Silverwing. Otherwise, it was a very nice scoot, by far better than the Chinese we are used to. Top speed for the 500 is a bit over 90mph. Here is a good writeup Top speed did for the 500i. Kymco Xciting 500i
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 7, 2014 12:28:38 GMT -6
I hope that was a rhetorical question, since I think those are for 1/4 scale funny cars. However, $8,200 for 100cc's? Nope and noper.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 7, 2014 11:46:55 GMT -6
This is from DennisKirk.com: Alpha Examples: MT90S-16 · MT90HB-16 The Alpha size designation is most often used for touring motorcycle tires. They can be belted even without the B designation, which can appear after the speed rating.
In the first example above, M states that it is a motorcycle tire. T is the width (see cross-reference chart here.) 90 is the aspect ratio (cross-section height is 90% of the width). S is the speed rating (112mph) and 16 is the wheel diameter in inches. Since there is no designation of construction after the speed rating, it is a bias-ply tire.
The cross-reference chart mentioned is at the bottom of the linked page.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Feb 5, 2014 17:19:02 GMT -6
I just did a generic search for nitrogen motorcycle shocks. I would have to do a ton more research before I'd look at buying one. I am not even sure of measurements at this point.
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Post by wheezy on Feb 4, 2014 12:35:13 GMT -6
Yeah, I've found some pretty generic nitrogen adjustable shocks on ebay for the hundred buck range. If it's anything like the OEM on that 700i, it would be well worth it. I'm riding now 45 miles each way to work, and I am looking to make her a little more like a Honda and a little less Chinese. (Don't get me wrong, she's been very good to me thus far). Just put on some new Shinko's, will be changing the oil again soon, and checking the belt once more. But overall, this scoot has been fun to own and ride. I'm looking now at more comfort and safety mods like shocks, brakes, led's, etc.
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Post by wheezy on Feb 3, 2014 18:16:36 GMT -6
Hey, all. I have a question that seems obvious but I have never seen asked. But, we are in essence riding clones of the 'original' manufacturer. For instance, my 250 is a clone of the Reflex. Seems elementary, but, cost aside, could genuine Reflex (or other original bike) parts be used on our clones? It seems to me that measurements and such would be the same, but does anyone have any experience with this?
The reason I ask is I recently test drove a Kymco 700I at the AIMExpo when it was in Orlando. I was impressed by the ride, but particularly that it had the newer gas adjustable shock absorbers. And that got me thinking, would genuine Honda replacement parts fit on my bike?
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Post by wheezy on Oct 26, 2013 12:51:50 GMT -6
Thanks again Alley. It's about 90% there after 30 minutes of adjusting. On level road, I'm running about 6k @35mph. There is silicone gasket around the cover, so the previous owner may have changed the weights. I get real good acceleration, but lose 5-10mph up the hills of GA before I moved to FL.
It will be some time before I put any money into this bike. I just found out that there is a way to register pre-2004 50cc's in FL with no title, so I am just trying to keep her running til next year when we move, then I will register it. As of now, this scoot is a toy around the neighborhood.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 25, 2013 20:07:59 GMT -6
Thanks Alley. On the center stand, the rear wheel begins to engage at ~3500 or so. I got it to that point, adjusted the mix slightly, and I am now up to 5k before it bogs on the hill. That's an improvement. I'll continue fine tuning in the morning.
Question: You said 7-8k? On my tach, my redline is at 8k.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 25, 2013 17:24:47 GMT -6
So I pulled my generic 50cc out of the corner of the garage after almost two years in storage. The new battery I bought back then won't keep a charge. Sucks cause the bike has only about 400 miles.I have a couple other 12v batteries that have spade lugs rather than posts. So I at least can crank it.
At first, it wouldn't start. It had been out of gas, so I assumed maybe junk in the tank or water. Managed to eliminate both of those. Then thought fuel wasn't flowing (again maybe junk in the tank or petcock not getting vacuum), turns out the float bowl was full, so no flow. I took of the carb and cleaned everything. The diaphragm is in great shape. Figured it would be a good time to do my own PDI, since I bought it off Craigslist. The valves were close, but I set them both to about .004 inches. The vacuum and fuel lines are in decent condition. Replaced all the zip ties with new ones, and verified the wires are good and spark is sparking blue.
I got everything back together. Still no start at first. I remembered the float was full, but maybe not primed. So I put a spoonful of gas into the diaphragm cover, and it pretty much fired up with some coaxing. The A/F was way off, don't know how it got that way as it ran great back in GA. I adjusted that and the idle speed. The back idles now better than it ever did. Throttle response is instant.
Took it for a test ride and that's were my new problem arises. I live on a slight incline. Downhill and at low rpm's (less than 4k), the bike is fine. I turn around and go uphill, and it bogs heavy until I goose the throttle, then it's only good again for a couple more seconds before I have to goose it. Now, even uphill at 4k rpm, it runs well but I only get 10mph, well below the performance before it sat. Downhill again and it's fine through the whole throttle.
So at first I thought main jet, but I cleaned that. But here is where it gets real weird. Back on the stand, without the load from the rear tire, the throttle is great through at least 6k rpm. No bogging, no sputtering, nothing but great response.
I will be pulling off the clutch and variator to check and clean. But, other than that, anyone have any ideas as to what causes the bogging under load?
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Post by wheezy on Oct 24, 2013 20:05:24 GMT -6
Just guessing at this point. Perhaps it's more to do with the angle the bike is sitting. When it's on the center stand and running, lift the front tire off the ground, transferring the weight to the rear. The only reason I mention this is you said you cleaned the carb. Did you take off the float by chance? If so, maybe it went back in upside down and is cutting off fuel just from the slight change in angle that putting it off the stand provides.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 9, 2013 12:53:12 GMT -6
What about your emergency flashers? If they work normally, I would lean towards your turn signal switch. But if your emergency flashers are also on steady, check the flasher unit. The gray wire from the flasher feeds both the turn signal and flasher switch simultaneously.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 9, 2013 12:36:06 GMT -6
All batteries 'leak' current between the plates over time. There is no way around it. All will fail, it's just some are better than others.
I just pulled my 50cc out after two years in the garage. I had bought a new battery (9Ah I think) two years ago, put 200 miles on it, and then moved. Bought the 250cc as well, so Little Red never got cranked. I put it on a charger overnight (with my dmm monitoring). It was charging fine, started around 5vdc, and got up to about 12.7vdc. As soon as I removed the charger, it immediately dropped to 8 volts. Just crap. I didn't expect the battery to go bad from no use at all, but oh well.
I'll move over my 12Ah from my 250 to get it started, but won't replace the 9Ah until I know I will use it more.
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Post by wheezy on Aug 15, 2013 11:36:49 GMT -6
OK Flinstone I found it. It was a odd thing. That plug number matched a smiley code and the system was confused, a rare thing. Changed the code and all is well. Thanks. JR JR, look also in the Chinese 250 parts reference sticky. The same thing has happened to several entries, which now show Mr. Sleepy Face smiley.
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