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Post by wheezy on Feb 12, 2013 9:36:42 GMT -6
I'm in the process of changing my rear tire on my 250A scoot. After snapping one of the two bolts holding the rear arm to the engine case, I successfully (if 4 hours of drilling and hammering is considered success) got the remnants of the broken bolt from the case. I did end up with a larger hole, which I used a M10 (vs. an M8) bolt long enough to put a nut on the other end, rather than tapping an aluminum block. What a pain in the butt that was. If there is one thing I would add to a PDI, it would be to replace every bolt you can reach with a higher strength one.
Anyway, my question is this: do I need to apply any grease (like white lithium) to the wheel hub or rear arm? There was no sign of any grease there when I removed the wheel.
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Post by wheezy on Jan 15, 2013 15:01:12 GMT -6
Mine always turns off once I actually turn my key all the way to the left just like yours, but when I still had it turned to the right and just killed switched it my fan would always stay on. Same as when I just just turn my key to the right on position my fan would start right up... Am I understanding right that you are saying the fan ran 100% of the time the key was turned to anything other than off? If so, it sounds as if the previous owner hard wired the fan to some live 12 volt feed, and bypassed the thermoswitch. If that's true, only tracing the wire will find where he spliced it. |
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Dec 17, 2012 13:57:01 GMT -6
Looks like the wheels came off of a similar year Pontiac Sunbird. I don't believe Chevy offered those on the Cavalier. I was always fonder of the Sunbird, had a 1989 for a bit, with the 4 banger. I did drive a late 90's Cavalier for years as a company car. Never any major mechanical problems. Just tons of little stuff, but that was the way cars were in the 90's.
The antifreeze smell could also come from a weeping water pump. When that begins to go, it warns you for quite a while before it is bad enough to begin puddling. Check for a drip from the weep hole.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 10, 2012 10:31:14 GMT -6
Not good news. Well, assuming your computer has a lithium-ion battery, it's best to charge it, then remove it. There are several reasons for this. Most failures are with the laptop charger cord, not the battery itself. Overheating of the cord could cause a fire. Lithium ion batteries do not have a memory like the old NiCads, but they are prone to lose life if stored in a hot place, like near a furnace vent. Store it inside a ziploc bag in a cool, dry place such as a pantry. No need to place it in a freezer, as the long term cold wouldn't help, and the humidity would likely corrode the terminals.
Don't forget to back up your data as well.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Dec 10, 2012 7:37:51 GMT -6
I wonder if Givi makes a windscreen for it. ;D
Long time since I've seen a bike with a gas and brake pedal. It kind of looks like that electric grocery cart you see at the store.
Either way, I don't have the money for it.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 10, 2012 7:32:50 GMT -6
I gotta say that I really don't consider this to be a scooter at all. Sure, it kind of resembles a scooter, and it kind of resembles a mc. But, I think there is developing a new class of mc out there with a name like 'city bike', or 'mini-touring'. It's for those folks that drive in the city, stop and go traffic, not really a touring kind of bike. IMO, to be a scooter, it has to have a belt drive, and this one doesn't.
It's destined to be alienated by scooter purists and hog riders alike.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 7, 2012 11:59:08 GMT -6
That makes sense, JR. So now, two questions.
A) what is that unlabelled square in the upper left?, and
B) the Y/G feeding the tail light is still 12vdc, correct?
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Post by wheezy on Dec 7, 2012 8:44:16 GMT -6
Godfeast, which schematic are we talking about here? Rectifiers work only in an input/output setup. In short, it takes AC in, passes through some diodes and other things that convert the reverse polarity of AC into pulsed DC (the signal goes from a sine wave to loooking like the letter m). Then, the regualtor sends it through a capacitor network that reduces the curves at the top of the letter m, now more resembling a straight line.
I'd have to see what pic you're looking at, as R/R's can't affect any upstream signal.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 7, 2012 8:33:48 GMT -6
As one comment on the story said, "Would you be willing to pay $11,000 for what amounts to an oversized scooter?".
It's a beautiful bike, for sure. And a DCT versus the CVT is nice. Notice the one pic where the rider's knees are only a couple inches from the fairing. It's a nice, sturdy bike. And it's a Honda. But, I can't help but think I could almost get a Concours 1400 for that price. Or 2 Burgman 650's slightly used.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 7, 2012 8:19:58 GMT -6
That definitely looks to be it. Weirdest connector symbol I've ever seen.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 7, 2012 7:53:57 GMT -6
Thanks, everyone. I think I may go with Alley's since A)they are insanely bright, and B)this seller still exists since at least 09. A little pricey compared to the cheapies from China, but there were alot of reviews stating no workie right from the package. Whid, I had been looking at all the parts stores in the area. No one had any led replacement bulbs except Pep Boys. Napa, Advance, and Autozone only carried either the led strips for custom jobs, or nothing at all. There were some trailer led supplies, but none seemed to fit the look I'm after. Pep Boys had some 1156 and 1157's in red, amber, blue, and white. They were only 12 led's, 1 Watt, and $9.99 apiece. They were branded with the name 'Pilot'. A big reason I skipped those was they only carried ONE of each. That would have taken months to get what I needed, without travelling to every Pep Boys around. This is what they look like: .ebay.com/itm/2-x-1157-AMBER-YELLOW-12-LED-BULBS-Rear-Tail-Stop-Parking-Lights-Turn-Signal-/281033426493?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416ee5c63d&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .ebay.com/itm/2-x-1157-AMBER-YELLOW-12-LED-BULBS-Rear-Tail-Stop-Parking-Lights-Turn-Signal-/281033426493?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416ee5c63d&vxp=mtr |
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Post by wheezy on Dec 5, 2012 20:12:17 GMT -6
I'd have to see what context it's used in. Can you post a link to it?
My first thought when I saw it was JR's last answer. It looks like a pulsed DC signal, which is not to be confused with AC. The polarity never reverses in pulsed DC. Typical uses are R/R's, once the voltage passes through the rectifier.
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Junior
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Post by wheezy on Dec 5, 2012 20:03:21 GMT -6
Yeah, in the phone world we call it 'naked' dsl. It's dsl only, with no working dial tone. I've had it for years. I used Vonage for awhile, then even gave it up. i just haven't needed a home phone. All my calling is cellular.
Google Voice is another alternative to Magicjack.
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Post by wheezy on Dec 5, 2012 19:57:58 GMT -6
Thanks, Alley. They look nice, especially the T10's.
How much did you gain in brightness?
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Post by wheezy on Dec 5, 2012 15:36:35 GMT -6
So, it's time for me to seriously look at upgrading the lights on my JCL 250. So, I'm looking at 6 total 1157 led's for my brakes and turn signals, then the 2 T10 side markers, and then the headlights (9004, correct?). Then, how bout the instrument panel lights? Or, added led strips to the trunk or elsewhere? The problem is that when I go to ebay, I am inundated with thousands of choices. I look and look, and stare some more, but then throw my hands up from too much info. Then, when I follow the old links from the previous thread on led's, the seller no longer exists. So, I'm asking you all for help. Any sellers you've had good experience with? Exactly what bulbs have worked for you? I am assuming the more led's the better, but then they throw in 1X and 4X and different wattages.  Has anyone had to add the resistors to the 1157s? I assume the bike wouldn't know the difference like a car would. Any helpful info would be, uh, helpful? |
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