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That looks like tygon to me. I use blue polyurethane here at the shop.

Also, any local hobby shop that deals in NITRO cars/planes/trucks/boats, will have real silicone hoses because its the only kind you can pump nitro/methanol mix through and it won't eat the hose.

its mine lol. im shaving the chrome and paintin her satin black.

make sure you wash the part first, because the goop will stick really good to plastic but not to dirt and oil vapor residue. don't ask me how I know!

thanks to you JR, the pdf looks great!. I am working on a picture set for body panel repair now. maybe I will have it done next week!

For model year 2011 and up, the EPA has imposed a rule that all carburetors on all Chinese scooters must be NON SERVICEABLE. All is fine and dandy for them at sea level in California at 80*f. OR until you get some junk in the jets. Well here in the real world, we get a lot of scooters that run like poo and need rejets or cleanings. It is really slow at the shop so I decided to make a tutorial on how to fix the problem at it's source. I had a pile of these "NON SERVICEABLE" carbs around and remembered my trick for the ATV carbs that I posted on YouTube last year. Off to Home Depot I went. They sell in the tool department a "GRAB-IT-PRO" set of broken screw extractors. $20 later and I was on my way. I decided that since my scooter has it's original 2008 carb, and the accelerator jet didn't work right that this would be MY new carb. It's jetted a little hotter than normal but all the same process just to return them to "stock" and running great.



first, you will need a Flat and Phillips screw driver, a drill of some sort(the grab-it's are compatible with quik-lok and chuck drills) a file (maybe), and a can of carb cleaner spray.


Then you need your new jets. I used a #40 Idle, and a #115 Main (the bag label says 110 but it isn't. I have good success on stock systems with a #38/#110 That's what will survive the temperature range in Texas. Plus running a little rich in the summer keeps the head temps down


Chuck up the smallest grabit with the drill bit end out. This set is reverse direction, so MAKE SURE YOUR DRILL IS IN REVERSE!


Drill dead center into the screw with the bit


You should be left with this


Flip the bit, insert the extractor into the hole you drilled and it should grab as you drill and reverse the screw out


Easy way to get the screw off is put the drill on forward and spin it while pressing sideways against some wood.

repeat this on the other screws until the bowl is removable. You may find that a screw may not be flat enough to drill the center, just file it down flat and try again


Once you have the bowl off, spray everything down with carb spray to make sure no metal chips get back into your jets/bowl then swap/clean your jets.

You will need to locate some small (M4 or M5) screws from a hardware store or in my case, a trashed old carb


Pop the new screws into the carb and tighten down


Here's why I used #40/#115 Jets WHOO HOO!


Reinstall and run!

ALSO NOTE: HARBOR FREIGHT SELLS AN EXTRACTOR SET OF LOWER QUALITY (MINE DID ABOUT 10 CARBS BEFORE WEARING OUT/BREAKING) FOR $10. I JUST WANTED THE GRABIT BECAUSE THEY OFFER A REAL LIFETIME WARRANTY. If you plan to only crack open one carb, this is the half price option for you!

lightly lube the shaft inside the clutch and also lightly lube the variator pin with bearing grease. Grab the clutch plate and squeeze and check for smooth operation.

also, you could have a carb issue, some bikes have snorkels on the air boxes that ram air at higher speeds and in cooler temps, have a tendancy to cause the bike to lean out. If your snorkel is forward facing, then try making a quick cardboard deflector for testing purposes and try again.

I am guessing that they used a ford twinspark 4cyl for that one. They came in older ford rangers and such. Took 8 spark plugs and had 2 independent coil packs. two spark plugs per cylinder. That would be the easiest and readily available to add a camera to. And I know for a fact that they run great on one spark plug per cyl.

It was 3.0 ohms. I will run a jumper from green to battery ground tomorrow and see what I get