Junior
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Post by wheezy on Nov 13, 2012 12:18:49 GMT -6
Not that you have a bad tester, but I would recommend buying a cheap mulitmeter, with a digital screen. Some measurements you would take on this bike would not trigger the T3 correctly.
If I am reading your results correctly, you have your +12vdc from your battery. The other side is suspect. The T3 triggers continuity when it reads a short between the two leads. In other words, you are reading a short from that side of the solenoid to ground (where your black lead was). That should not be shorted. This is where the T3 can lead you astray. To accurately read resistance, voltage must be removed.
First, follow the red wire on the good 12vdc side, and make sure it leads straight to the + terminal on the battery. (I want to make sure which side we will be troubleshooting). It would not make sense for that side to be shorted AND your clock works, as that side feeds the clock with 12vdc even when the key is off.
If it does, follow the other lug's red wire to see if there is any damage causing an obvious short. Also, pull that 20A fuse and check it for continuity.
One last question, is the alarm box still connected? It would be behind the left headlight, and it has a ~120db siren with it. If it is, go ahead and disconnect it until we have verified the other things. These alarms are notorious for killing power.
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Post by wheezy on Nov 13, 2012 10:42:57 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum!  I'll kick it off until JR shows up,  , but it appears since you have the 20A fuse at the solenoid, you have a Linhai clone, and not a true yy250t. First step is to read each of the big lugs on the solenoid. That 20A fuse will kill it all if it's blown. Read each of those lugs with the red lead, and the black lead on a good ground. You should have +12vdc on each side. If you have it only on one side, the fuse likely is your issue. Let us know, and we'll move farther to the diode if you're good there. |
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Post by wheezy on Nov 12, 2012 19:36:32 GMT -6
ok just pulled off and opened up. i have sliders in there and it was FULL of belt dust and dry. i need to go get more grease and a new bolt as it stripped when i pulled it off. do you by any chance no what type of thread that is on the spindle for the variator? Thank you very much Alleyoop i THINK this just might be the issue. i think it was stuck high because it was dry. I'll confirm this when i get back from the autopart store. i want to clarify something. Are you saying you are going to grease the sliders? Guys please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it should be dry. Grease would do more harm than good, since it would just collect the belt dust. A good cleaning with brake cleaner would be better. |
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Post by wheezy on Nov 12, 2012 15:40:57 GMT -6
Good catch on that C50. That particular bike is high on my list when I upgrade, but that is awhile aways yet. You could not have picked a better time of year to take the MSF course. You are required to wear a long sleeve shirt and full face helmet. It was 95 degrees when I took the course in Orlando. Also, they had two styles of bikes available for the class, be sure and pick one that is closest in stature to your C50, so it's an easier transition. This is the bike I had for the class:  |
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Post by wheezy on Nov 5, 2012 15:12:04 GMT -6
Given this is s dual-filament bulb, one must lose both 12v sources for the bulb to not work at all.
Are the dashlights working? That same 12v feeds the brown side for running lights. We know the starter relay works, so chances are the brake lights have a good feed as well.
That would lead to a broken ground. JR, does this share the same green wire as the turn signals? It would seem that if the ground is broken further from the tail light connector that the turn signals also would not work.
I think we may need a cheap 12v tester from the parts store to be sure of both of our 12v sources.
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Post by wheezy on Nov 5, 2012 13:14:57 GMT -6
How do I find my " Video Card " ? Is it numbered or what ? Dell, Windows 7 Just did it again----AMD DRIVER STOPPED We'll need some more specific info, such as: -model number of your Dell, laptop or desktop? -Tell us more about your system by clicking the Windows Start Button and type msinfo32.exe in the search text box and press enter key . This should open up the System Information Dialog window that shows the complete info about your System . Copy and paste that info here. At this point, assuming you have a desktop, it sounds as if your Dell came with 'integrated graphics' which is a fancy term meaning the video is built into the motherboard rather than a swappable component. Manufacturers did this to save money for users that were only into everyday computing, not graphics intensive games or video editing. The older a PC gets, the more likely the driver software can be corrupted, and reloading or updating it usually does the trick. Let us know. |
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Post by wheezy on Nov 2, 2012 13:04:25 GMT -6
First off guys, am I correct in assuming this is the Euro version of the YY250T? If so, the main 20A fuse would be good since it runs once the solenoid is jumped.
There is a 10A fuse that feeds the red 12V wire from a junction between the starting relay and the ignition switch. It appears from what I see that if you have a running motor, and absolutely nothing else, that particular fuse would be blown.
Also, I had to disconnect my alarm entirely since it blew my 15A fuse on my JCL 250B. While you have the front cowling off, it would be good to disconnect it until this gremlin is solved.
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Post by wheezy on Nov 2, 2012 8:08:10 GMT -6
The first step would be to make sure you have the latest video driver.
Right click on 'My Computer' and click 'manage'
In the left window, click 'Device Manager'
In the right window, select 'Display adapters', then find your video card in the list.
Right click on the selection, then select 'Update Driver'
Allow it to automatically search for the latest driver.
If the issue continues, post what CPU. video card, and Windows version, and we will look further.
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Post by wheezy on Oct 25, 2012 7:39:19 GMT -6
that bike does not had the blocking diode Dog gone it!  Thought I had one there. Does anyone have a good wiring diagram? Kinroad's is hosed as the headlight wiring is cut off at the bottom of it. |
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Post by wheezy on Oct 23, 2012 9:44:29 GMT -6
I've seen a video on you tube. The guy heated the case in the oven and put the crank in the freezer. When I get home tonight I can look for it and post a link. Is it this one John? |
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Post by wheezy on Oct 22, 2012 9:03:28 GMT -6
I4 is a disaster for everyone ( worst highway in the state with the worst drivers in the nation - speeds set at 65 but 80+ is the usual. I ride as close as I can get to 65, which is why I tweaked to a uni and open exhaust, with high rollers in the first place.) It's a worse case scenario in any situation, and if I had a financial choice, I'd never even consider taking a scooter on that highway - pretty much risking my life every day, but we do what we have to in order to get by. Wow! I totally understand your reasoning, but I've got a 250, and I only take I-4 when I have absolutely no other choice. I've had it up to 75 on I-4, and just don't like not having any speed left in reserve to get out of an idiots way. I take 17/92 instead of the interstate, even then I have some surface neighborhood streets I take when things get too idiotic. Are you taking I-4 just to save time, or is there any way surface streets would be possible? It would take longer, but you wouldn't be burning out your top end every few weeks. While I think you'd be on the right track going up a couple sizes to try to cure the lean, at this point it still seems a guess that you are lean. As Alley said, it may be that you're running at WOT on an air-cooled motor for extended periods of time. I have done that in my 50cc, and after a while the heat would seem to predetonate the fuel. I'd have to reduce throttle to get it back. Without knowing your total situation, and it's just a suggestion, but I would look into financing a 250 or greater for a short period of time. My view is you are very lucky the top end has not failed while you were screaming down the interstate. |
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Post by wheezy on Oct 19, 2012 8:02:31 GMT -6
thanks for the suggestion i have a dumb question whats the cdi and where is it located JR explained where to find and how to test it, but in simplest terms, a CDI is a capacitor discharge method of triggering the ignition coil. It gets it feed from the stator, so it only produces voltage when the crankshaft is turning. The kill switch feeds it a ground to shut the engine off. As others have suggested, pull that wire off the CDI, and use a multimeter on the ohms setting to check back through the wire and kill switch. Place the red lead on the wire, and the black lead on a good ground point on the bike. It should read open (max resistance or OL on the meter) with the kill switch in the run position, and short (very close to 0 ohms) in the kill position. Rattle the switch and wire a bit while in the run position to see if you have an intermittent ground on the wire. |
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Post by wheezy on Oct 16, 2012 14:05:38 GMT -6
On mine there is an access panel under the seat to get at all the lights in back I do not know about yours. But the 250 guys on here can tell you just how to if yours does not have an access panel that pulls out under the seat. Alleyoop I have the same access panel on my 250B, 2-10mm screws hold it to the seat pan, then a tab at the top pulls it out. |
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Post by wheezy on Oct 15, 2012 9:50:21 GMT -6
I would guess that most of these would go to the instrument cluster. JR, take a look and correct my mistakes Red-clock feed brown/white-normally feeds lo-beams like JR said, but maybe feeds instrument cluster bulbs? orange-feed for left turn indicator on dash purple-water temp guage black-hot feed for fuel and temp guages Just an educated guess, since mine is a 250B, but my dash bulb feed is solid brown. The thing that makes me question my findings though, is the guages of some of the wires. They're larger than would normally go the the instrument cluster. Verifying these with a multimeter would be the only true way for me to determine location. |
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