Scooter Wont Start By larsliederhausen (Read 2,625 times)

[larsliederhausen]

Hello,

I have the 2012 Jonway 250cc yy250t 54B that I purchased new 08/14/12. I have broken it in properly, kept oil clean, gear oil replaced, changed coolant. I had to replace my whole front brake assembly. My first minor issue is that my horn doesnt work, every once in a while when I hit the button the horn will work but its completely random. My major problem started a 2 weeks ago when I got on my scooter and tried to start it but nothing happened. I tried to power the radio but no power was going to the stereo. I moved the bike a little bit and kept trying and then it started up. A few days later same thing happened again but it took a little longer for it to start. Then last night it seemed like it didn't want to come on and after about 30mins of moving it around I checked the battery connections and terminals are clean and not grounding out. I noticed a starter solenoid and jumped it like I used to w my old cars and she fired up. Now since last night I cannot get the scooter to start using the push button feature. I have opened up and jumped it at the solenoid. This saturday I'm going to get this fixed however...before I jump into this and start taking this puzzlebox apart I would like some direction...First i'm going to start with the fuses and inline fuse by the battery. But does my issue sound like its my solenoid (how do i test it to see if its bad?)or is it my ignition? Since I bought the scooter I have never used the alarm or remote start for fear of it draining my battery or confusing my ignition (I read other posts before buying it). Please help. thank you.

[kz1000st]

Squeeze both brakes and see what happens. I've had this problem on another 250 and it was the switch on the handlebar. Your horn has either a bad wire or the horn button is faulty. I never use my horn and one of my Kawasakis only worked after repeated pushes or moving my thumb around on the button. I guess the button rusted from non-use.

[richardthescooter3]

Does the brake lights come on when you squeeze the brake hand? if not, it is your brake switch, make sure all your connections in the cdi are pushed in.

[larsliederhausen]

What does cdi stand for and where would it be? Ive tried both brakes and still no start. Tomorrow i will see if brake light comes on. However even when the key is in thw on position i have no power to the stereo and my radiator fan does not come on (after a ride). With that info i would assume that even squeezinf my brakes the light probably wont come on.

[tvnacman]

Look for main fuse off battery! Or go backwards from the starter follow the heavy wire. Should bring you to the solinoid. 20a fuse.
CDI-CAPACITIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION

John

[alleyoop]

Have you checked all the fuses on that thing.
Alleyoop

[wheezy]

First off guys, am I correct in assuming this is the Euro version of the YY250T? If so, the main 20A fuse would be good since it runs once the solenoid is jumped.

There is a 10A fuse that feeds the red 12V wire from a junction between the starting relay and the ignition switch. It appears from what I see that if you have a running motor, and absolutely nothing else, that particular fuse would be blown.

Also, I had to disconnect my alarm entirely since it blew my 15A fuse on my JCL 250B. While you have the front cowling off, it would be good to disconnect it until this gremlin is solved.

[cruiser]

Just about every function that you are having problems with has its own fused circuit. Brake lights which also feed 12 volts to the starter solenoid is on one circuit. Horn has another circuit. Radiator fan runs on another circuit. The fuse box that Alley pointed out is a good place to start. The connectors for the wires under the fuse box tend to be loose and sometimes they push out from the box when the fuses are pushed in. You should have 12 volts feeding in to all the fuses except for the headlights. Make sure you have 12 volts feeding the fuse box (I believe it's the black wire). The LIGHT fuse gets 12 volts once the engine is running. Here's a picture of the inside of that fuse box:



I would make sure that the brake circuit which feeds 12 volts to one side and the starter button which supplies the ground for the other side of the starter solenoid are working correctly before suspecting the solenoid itself.

The CDI is located above the muffler next to the regulator/rectifier and the blocking diode.



From left to right is the blocking diode, the R/R, and then the CDI.

[JR]

Nov 2, 2012 10:54:07 GMT -6 larsliederhausen said:

What does cdi stand for and where would it be? Ive tried both brakes and still no start. Tomorrow i will see if brake light comes on. However even when the key is in thw on position i have no power to the stereo and my radiator fan does not come on (after a ride). With that info i would assume that even squeezinf my brakes the light probably wont come on.

Welcome to the forum and as usual you have got right on advice from every member that answered.

The moving around is a dead givaway on bad connections or a bad wire. Just like Cruiser said the fuse box is the first place to look and also checking to see if the brake lights come on will tell us something also.

Also Wheezy is right about it running but on the moto version like you have the main feed fuse is a 15A one usually by the battery and the sister scooter with the linhai is the one with the single 20A fuse on the solenoid relay, not this model.

Good going guys on all the help and keep us informed and she'll be as good as new soon.

JR

[larsliederhausen]

First I want thank all of you for your contribution and advice I did some trouble shooting with the information provided BEFORE i start taking this thing apart. Here are some pictures and questions.
First...all fuses here are in good shape:


Second: in line fuse from battery is good


Third: Battery Voltage good


Fourth: Voltage coming off inline fuse from battery:


Fifth: Voltage at the starter solenoid looks good:


Sixth: I used my voltmeter at the fuse box at got a reading of 1 volt. I couldn't find my light tester at the time... I did eventually find it and disconnected the connection to the fuse box and the light tester wouldn't light up:


seventh: I double checked my light tester with the battery and its not my tester



So with this newfound knowledge since I now know there is NO power going to the fuse block where does the rest of this wire harness go to and what part of the bike do i have to take apart to get to it?

richardthescooter3 - I squeezed both brakes with the key in the on position and no brake lights.

Wheezy - where would is the starting relay? Is this 10a fuse in the front end which part of the scooter would I enter to find this thing?

Cruiser - in your picture, is the CDI the black thing with fins and a bolt at the top?

Sorry for so many pictures i figured the more accurate information I can provide the better your able to help me. Thanks again!

[JR]

First of all I hate to sound negative but your battery voltage is nominal not good. Good = 12.7 Vdc+. I would slow charge the battery, let it set for one hour after charging and then test it.

Second like I mentioned on the model scooter you have there is no fuse on the starter relay only the main fuse on the red wire the glass buss type fuse and the blade type fuses in the fuse box.

Now the plug you are testing that plugs into the fuse box will have a black 12Vdc feed wire and is only hot with the key turned on. Of course if you have no power you'll have no brake lights.

Now I'll ask you a question when you say the main glass fuse is good did you test it on both sides with your volt meter or testing light? Reason I ask is Chinese fuses are famous for looking good and actually not being good.

This fuse is on the 12Vdc feed line from the battery to the key switch, if it is bad then you have no power with the key on. But if it is good and you have no power to the fuse box then it's one of 4 things;

Broke wire from key switch to fuse box (black)
bad key switch not passing power
Broke wire on fused red feed line from battery to key switch.
Loose wire up behind the headlight area on one of the main harness plugs.


The red and black power wire end up in a plug with lots of other wires in the front area of the scooter behind the headlights. Remember the moving it around and it would start? This is another area to check the loose wire may have finally broke connection fully?



The CDI is the black plastic box to the right of the finned aluminum box which is the R/R.

[larsliederhausen]

Thank you Jr. I will place a batter charger on it and later tonight Ill start taking the bike apart so i can troubleshoot first thing in the morning. I have to have this done tomorrow so I have a ride to work. Now that I know what and where the CDI is....Do I Just need to make sure all the plugs are in or should i be testing voltage here?
once I take her all apart and find this fuse to the ignition, I'm going to dremel a slot anywhere on this thing so its easily accessible lol

Thanks again for the help.

[JR]

This is the fuse to the ignition key switch. If it is good then the next step is taking the front off and locating the plug on the key switch that plugs into the harness. The same red wire that has this fuse from the battery feeds the key switch. That's why I told you to be very sure it is passing voltage.


Yes on the CDI you need to check the wires carefully especially the black (12Vdc wire) and the green (ground). With the key on you should have 12Vdc on the black wire.
JR

[larsliederhausen]

Well here's the update. I took her all apart and checked all my connections to the ignition and the cdi and everything is good. When I start troubleshooting electrical I always use my testing light first then multimeter if needed. Well, Since I couldnt locate my testing light I only used the voltmeter as a way of looking for live wires. Well, going back to what you said JR. about chinese fuses are misleading...well, thats all it was. I replaced the fuse and started up just fine. The only reason I saw voltage on my voltmeter is because I had the probes on both sides of the fuses which was bridging the circuit. I appreciate all the help and advice. This was a timely lesson learned and I WONT make that mistake again. Thanks again.

[alleyoop]

Best thing you can do is replace that TUBE FUSE with a Automotive BLADE FUSE those tube jobs with vibrations and moving around the thin wire breaks where you cannot see it by the ends.
Alleyoop