Yiying yy250t -09 Dead with only clock alive By mixan (Read 2,869 times)

[mixan]

Hello!


Happy to find myself in this forum!

I bought this black beauty a week ago, used and it has 11000 on its counter

Im not a skilled mechanican but I am good at finding information and have read a lot during the last 2-3days.

I believe I have the Linhai motor with one 15a fuse next to the battery and one 20a fuse on the Solenoid

Problem is that it gets no power, no lights, no horn, nothing happends when turning on the ignition (except until today, the clock turned on when connected the battery)

I checked around on all visible connections, tried 2 different batteries, changed both fuses (is there a third for the ignition?)

It doesnt seem to give me any luck and maybe something is broken and needs to be changed

I have removed seat and front stuff and am ready with voltmeeter and screwdriver for some advices, can provide pics if needed.

Regards Micke

Here is a link to my:
15a fuse next to battery imageshack.us/f/268/15askring.jpg/
20a fuse on the solenoid imageshack.us/f/35/20askring.jpg/

[wheezy]

Welcome to the forum!

I'll kick it off until JR shows up, , but it appears since you have the 20A fuse at the solenoid, you have a Linhai clone, and not a true yy250t.

First step is to read each of the big lugs on the solenoid. That 20A fuse will kill it all if it's blown.

Read each of those lugs with the red lead, and the black lead on a good ground. You should have +12vdc on each side. If you have it only on one side, the fuse likely is your issue.

Let us know, and we'll move farther to the diode if you're good there.

[mixan]

Hello!

Thank you for your time

I have never used a reader before lol but got my hands on a fluke t3 tester.

I put the black stick on a grounded area (a bolt on the bike where the ground wires is) and the red on one of the lugs, it reads 12 and +vdc and when i put the red stick on the other lug it just beeps and shows continuity (at the opposite of +vdc on the meter) sounds good?

[JR]

Welcome to the forum! You've made a good start and you're right whezzy, 20A fuse bad = dead scooter.

Looking at your picture I'm thinking corrosion and dirty contacts so that's a must to go through. Also looking at your picture you see the red wires (small ones) and the cap on the 20A fuse.



The fuse is fed from the battery by one of the red wires and goes out from the fuse on the output red wire which feeds the key ignition switch. You say the fuse is good? By sight or by checking it with a ohm meter?

Since you have a volt meter check these things first;

Voltage to make sure you have a good hot battery = 12Vdc+
After making sure the small red wirte hooked up to the battery is making good contact check to see if you have 12Vdc on one of the small wires on the starter solenoid relay.
If you have input voltage after checking the wires check to see if you have the same 12Vdc on one of the small red wires, if not check the fuse and fuse holder.

If all this checks out ok with proper voltage then since you have the front off find the plug that the key switch plugs into and see if you have 12Vdc to it.

If so then plug it back up turn the key on and see if you have 12Vdc on the black wire coming out of the key switch. The black wire from the key switch feeds the fuse on the black wire by your battery.

Keep us informed we are here to help.

JR

[wheezy]

Not that you have a bad tester, but I would recommend buying a cheap mulitmeter, with a digital screen. Some measurements you would take on this bike would not trigger the T3 correctly.

If I am reading your results correctly, you have your +12vdc from your battery. The other side is suspect. The T3 triggers continuity when it reads a short between the two leads. In other words, you are reading a short from that side of the solenoid to ground (where your black lead was). That should not be shorted. This is where the T3 can lead you astray. To accurately read resistance, voltage must be removed.

First, follow the red wire on the good 12vdc side, and make sure it leads straight to the + terminal on the battery. (I want to make sure which side we will be troubleshooting). It would not make sense for that side to be shorted AND your clock works, as that side feeds the clock with 12vdc even when the key is off.

If it does, follow the other lug's red wire to see if there is any damage causing an obvious short. Also, pull that 20A fuse and check it for continuity.

One last question, is the alarm box still connected? It would be behind the left headlight, and it has a ~120db siren with it. If it is, go ahead and disconnect it until we have verified the other things. These alarms are notorious for killing power.

[mixan]

"After making sure the small red wirte hooked up to the battery is making good contact check to see if you have 12Vdc on one of the small wires on the starter solenoid relay.
If you have input voltage after checking the wires check to see if you have the same 12Vdc on one of the small red wires, if not check the fuse and fuse holder."

Ok, 12vdc on one of the small wires on solenoid relay check!
one of the red small wire gave 12vdc aswell!

"If all this checks out ok with proper voltage then since you have the front off find the plug that the key switch plugs into and see if you have 12Vdc to it."

One of the 4 in the plug (from the red wire) gives me 12vdc

need to do more tests on the black wire with ignition on as all i got was a beep.

update: from the keyswitch with ignition on; the black, black white, second red all gives a beep instead of the clean 12vdc signal, do i need another meter or is this good enough to tell?

Ty for your help this far

"First, follow the red wire on the good 12vdc side, and make sure it leads straight to the + terminal on the battery"

the good 12vdc leads to + on battery! the other one that gives different? signal connects to the red plug to the left on the first picture with 15a fuse.
I disonnected a round black bell of some sort, behind the left headlight

[JR]

One of the 4 in the plug (from the red wire) gives me 12vdc

This tells me that the red wires from the battery to the 20A fuse and out of the fuse is good because you have 12Vdc at the plug that plugs in the key switch.

Now when you unplug the key switch it will have 4 wires, (some have 6 but only use 4).

Now the key switch is a two way switch as in normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). When the key is on the switch closes and connects the red 12Vdc feed from the battery to the black wire which is fused at the battery (15A). This in turn feeds the scooter accessories, (horn, turn signals, fule gauge, instrument lights, brake lights, etc.

At the same time with the key on the other side of the switch opens (NO) and breaks ground to the CDI kill wire (usually black/white but may be gray/white).

You mentioned only the clock works and everything else is dead and this tells me good voltage to the key switch (red wire) and that we probably have a bad key switch because the clock hooks up to the red wire between the 20A fuse and the key switch. That's why it's always on even with the key off.

So let's test the key switch with a meter. Set your multimeter to ohms and hook one lead to the red wire on the key switch and the other to the black lead.

Turn the key on and you should read full ohms resistance or full continuity, if not then the switch is bad and not passing voltage.

At the same time with the key on put the volt meter leads to the other two wires and you should not read ohms resistance or no continuity.

You can then turn the key off and the opposite will happen, full resistance on the engine kill side and no resistance on the power side.

Now here is another way we can see if the key switch is bad. On the main plug that you unplug the key switch from locate the red wire and the black wire and put a jumper wire connecting the two wires.

If the scooter accessories work and if you hit the brake and start button and she turns over then you've found the problem.

Keep us up to date and we're here to help.


I disonnected a round black bell of some sort, behind the left headlight

Sounds like the scooter alarm horn.

JR

[mixan]

Good Morning!

So let's test the key switch with a meter. Set your multimeter to ohms and hook one lead to the red wire on the key switch and the other to the black lead.

Turn the key on and you should read full ohms resistance or full continuity, if not then the switch is bad and not passing voltage.

I tested the black and the red wire with ignition on and got this
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/motstndrdsvart.jpg/
and nothing with ignition off.

At the same time with the key on put the volt meter leads to the other two wires and you should not read ohms resistance or no continuity.

when i put the meter on the other 2 (out of 6, 4 in use like you said) Black/white and Red/white, nothing happends when turning ignition off or on

gonna try the jumper now


update! i put a jumper between black and red wire and electricity works horn, lights, engine also tries to start

engine seems hard to start but very exciting to see some life in it

[JR]

Simply put you have a bad key switch, replace and all will be well. Good Job!

JR

[mixan]

ok thank you very much for leading me this far so easy, really made it fun and a great experience.

Engine does not start but wants to, cant smell any gas but this is normal when bypassing keyswitch?

Or maybe I will have to return to this thread with the engine problem when the ignition is fixed

I will order a new key switch, seems to be hard to find in europe after a quick googling, I live in sweden so not much parts over here

So I Bought this with my fingers crossed it will fit
.ebay.com/itm/140826970441?ssPageName=STRK" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/140826970441?ssPageName=STRK

[JR]

Hey I think you found the right one! Good luck.

JR

[mixan]

Hello!

I got my new ignition switch today!

Got excited and made the swtich, it didnt go to easy as the other screw wouldnt go straight back in

anyhow,, Ignition swtich works well, lights and stuff all good and I could feel how the new ignition gave more pressure when turning on with the keys.

I dont get it to fire up though (same as before) I do smell a good amount of gaseline so what could be the new problem?

Should i keep trying? I filled it with some gas, I checked oils before but maybe ive missed something.

The bike has probably been standing for some time.

Now I need to get back out and try to figure out how to puzzle it back again (atleast the front) and I would be greatfull for more advices to what to do next.

Thank you!

[alleyoop]

Check for SPARK at the SPARK PLUG, take the boot cap off the plug on the motor and if you have a spare plug stick that in the BOOT CAP and hold it against the MOTOR or Valve Cover and crank it and see if you see it SPARKING. Also make sure your KILLSWITCH is on the RUN POSITION.
Alleyoop

[mixan]

Hello!

Killswitch is on run. spark plug im unsure which one that is
I told you Im not so skilled at this but I have my thoughts, is it the first thing you see when seat is removed, that has a black hat on it?

to the left here

imageshack.us/f/268/15askring.jpg/

[alleyoop]

No, that is your ENRICHER(CHOKE) for cold starts. The Spark Plug is further to the LEFT of the Carb on the HEAD OF THE MOTOR. You will see a black cap going into the motor with a thick wire attached to it.
Alleyoop