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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 18:25:39 GMT -6
Looks very similar to my 2011, Scot; thanks. Hoping I can get away with removing the plastic shield, four radiator bolts, tip it forward and get at the fan that way, but will see. Anybody else with pix, love to see 'em.
Was planning, if all the other modifications didn't do the job, to invest in a 14Ah battery to replace the 9Ah, But earlier this week the latter crapped out in front of an auto parts store, so I wound up buying a second, identical 9Ah. Until I feel good about the charging system that one will be a constant companion in my trunk, fully charged and ready to go if I get stranded again.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 14:14:39 GMT -6
Anyone who might be following my posts knows I'm fighting a wimpy charging system. I'm replacing most running light bulbs with LEDs and the juice-sucking OEM fan with a less thirsty one. Was also wondering about the headlights, which on this scoot are always on when the key is on (I replaced the blocking diode with a relay). Since I have two running lights next to the headlights, and they are now very bright thanks to the new LED bulbs, I think they might satisfy the Arizona law that requires lights on at all times. So I'm considering re-wiring the headlamps through an on/off switch, and only using them at night or during periods of especially poor visibility. Has anyone done this, if so has anyone run into trouble with John Law because of it, and is there anyone who thinks it's not a good idea? (Yes, I've considered the obvious safety risks -- in general, the more lights the better. But if the fan switchout doesn't fix my charging issues, the headlights are just about my last recourse.)
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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 14:01:37 GMT -6
 The moment of truth approaches. Recent test rides convince me my charging problems are never going to be resolved with the current fan; every time it turns on the voltmeter drops below 12. So, since tomorrow's forecast is for rain, I plan to take the leap and try to change the OEM 8-amp van for the 3-amp fan Alley steered me to. Could use advice from anybody who has done this on the 2011 Roketa. I can look under/behind the front wheel and see the radiator, with a plastic shroud in front of it held by several screws. I assume the fan is mounted to the back side of the radiator. If there's anybody out there who has had occasion to remove the radiator on this particular scoot, can I do it working from the front, or an I going to need to pull plastic to get at what I need to get at? Any pictures, YouTube videos, diagrams, whatever, would be a big help, I'm sure. Even just a picture of that section of the Roketa with the plastics off, so I can get an idea of the "lay of the land," would be better than nothing. Thanks to anyone who can help.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 17, 2013 9:25:19 GMT -6
Hi JR, finally sending a picture of my Roketa. Please add it to the scroller as Ellpee's Roketa, and if you can, change Elpee's Magnum to Ellpee's Magnum. Must have let a typo slip by when I first sent that one. Attachments:
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Post by ellpee on Dec 17, 2013 9:06:18 GMT -6
The good news in my case (Magnum) is that the whole schmier is easy to get to on both sides, fully visible when I'm just sitting on the ground. the manifold-to-cylinder-head bolts, now, different story, steel frame tubes in the way, but just need to find the right wrench for that. As to the metal mesh section, I'm wondering if I can replace that with the "corrugated" metal tubing somehow and get a better, tighter exhaust seal, but that's a project for next summer. I have more than enough headaches right now with my Roketa's charging issues.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 16, 2013 13:54:47 GMT -6
FWIW, LED supplier Warden says in turn signals LEDs do require load resistors. Go figure. Evening update: went on a ~40-mile run this afternoon, with battery having fully charged overnight. Outbound, voltmeter said about 12.3-12.5 until the fan kicked in, then promptly dropped to about 11.5-11.7. When speed and airflow allowed temperature to drop and fan shut off, voltmeter again slightly above 12, but it was clearly losing ground. At first destination, shut down for maybe 20 minutes. Came back out, scoot started and voltmeter again said about 12.3 at first, then dropped below 12 as engine warmed up enough to turn on the fan. Charging system seemed able to hold about 11.5 with the fan running. However, made the fatal mistake of stopping at an auto parts store to check for LED bulbs (they had none). Came back out, key on, voltmeter read about 8.5 and scoot wouldn't even crank. So I bought a second battery! Got home okay with that, but same charging performance. Will be keeping that second battery in the trunk, fully charged, as a backup until I get this charging problem fixed once and for all. Seems pretty clear to me, though, that the fan is indeed the culprit -- when it kicks on, voltage drops below 12, when it shuts off again, voltage again slightly over 12. The longer I drive, though, the lower the battery drops, and I don't dare shut off the engine or the odds are very good she won't have enough oomph left to crank again. I still plan to replace the other six running lights with LEDs, but it looks very much like nothing short of replacing that fan is going to fix the problem. In the meantime, I expect to become very proficient at switching out the battery.  |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 16, 2013 13:48:38 GMT -6
Don't have an answer, but will be watching this thread with interest. My Magnum has a kind of metal mesh section between the manifold and the muffler on both sides, and it's anything but airtight -- black on both sides at the manifold end. Also, the clamp that is supposed to hold it in position at the muffler end is questionable -- have to tighten it down like crazy to keep the parts from sliding apart. Hoping something I read here will suggest an alternative; I can understand why something flexible is probably necessary due to vibration, but that mesh gizmo doesn't impress me at all.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 15, 2013 20:20:01 GMT -6
I have changed to to LEDs on turn signals, with no increased blinking, but brighter lights. Also changed tail & brake lites, also brighter with less wattage use. Added 24 LEDs on front running lites. This was six months ago. Hope this helps. Does indeed help, though other input still welcome. Test run today, couple hours, several stops, enroute voltmeter hung in in the mid-12's, except at one point when I was putt-putting around a big parking lot for several minutes at which point it looked like voltage was dropping, so I got nervous and headed for home. Enroute back home at 40mph or so, though, again in the mid-12's. |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 15, 2013 17:08:16 GMT -6
Now THAT qualifies as glad tidings. Hope you do find out whodunit so you can file charges. That was the lowest of the low.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 14, 2013 17:13:36 GMT -6
Hate to hijack a thread, but I have to say all these MC designations are confusing. My 2011 Roketa paperwork says either MC-54B-250 or MC-54-250B -- sorry, don't have it in front of me at the moment -- but it very definitely has the 244cc vertical engine. And for the original poster, best I can recall, on my 2011 Roketa the radiator filler cap is not under the BATTERY cover, it's under a second little access panel under the seat, to the rear of the battery cover. Mine also has stickers on it that say YY250T, though as others have noted, that designation is not to be relied upon. CORRECTING MISINFORMATION: Got back to Tucson and checked my Roketa, and the radiator cap is indeed under the BATTERY cover; that other little trap door gives access to the spark plug. Sorry, was working from an old, often flawed memory. |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 14, 2013 13:16:07 GMT -6
Late morning progress report: Checked the yellow stator wires for AC voltage, and got about 22v at idle, up into the 60's at high rpm, so it would seem no stator issues (right, gurus?). Had it running on battery only for quite some time, so am trickle-charging it now before seeing what the charge state looks like on the voltmeter with the only change being two LEDs.
While testing, I got to wondering if there is any difference between the three yellow wires, or do they all just carry an identical burst of current when the stator rotates to the appropriate position? I ask in case I ever get confused about which is which -- remember I relocated my R/R under the seat, and had to cut and extend those three wires to do so. (If it tells anybody anything, wire sequence as they go into the R/R is green-yellow-yellow-yellow-white-black.)
NEXT MORNING: On tender all night, ~20 hours? Key on, voltmeter shows ~11.5 - 11.7 (headlights, running lights, gauges on). Start engine, just over 12v. Increase rpm, up to just shy of 13v, but no higher (and fan not yet on at this point). So charging circuit is working, but adding just two LEDs made little difference. As soon as I find all the right LEDs I'll switch the rest and see what's what. If still marginal, time to do that darn fan, although when the fan isn't even running, I still can't get the voltmeter over 13v.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 14, 2013 13:08:59 GMT -6
On my older year, 2008 of a MC 54 250 with the 244 cc engine, it is easy to correct left and right turn signals. Assuming that the wiring is OK check this out. Push the button forward with the thumb and the right turn lights work. Pull the button back with the thumb and the left turn lights work, Press the button and the lights go off. 1. If pushed forward and the left light on the front flashes, look up under the front plate and swap the two turn light connectors from their connectors coming down from the switch panel. That should correct which light is flashing. You may need to take off the plate below the windshield, hopefully not. 2. If the switch is pushed forward and the left rear light is flashing. A similar swap of the lamps in the back may be needed. Not sure if there are connectors to be swapped or if you need to actually move the lamps to fix the problem. . A simple, elegant solution, Bob, that never occurred to me. Assuming the harnesses are long enough, just swap the two that are blinking wrong -- sounds like the rear ones -- and presto, all is good. No fooling with anything else between the switch and the bulb. And on my 2011 Roketa, those are easy to get to and plenty of wire to make the switch. Sounds like Joe Chinaman just got dyslexic when he was installing the bulb holders! |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 14, 2013 10:13:30 GMT -6
Updating, finally got back to my Roketa and installed two LED bulbs in the front running lights. To my dismay, neither one lit up when I turned on the ignition. After considerable mumbling under my breath, I pulled the connectors again and reversed the bulbs in their sockets, and presto, nice bright lights. Who knew that unlike incandescent bulbs, LEDs are polarity-aware?
New fan is still sitting on my workbench, but today I'm going to test the yellow wires off the stator and see what's what there. Will also bite the bullet and buy LED replacements for all the turn and tail/brake lights, pricey but my Christmas present to myself. After that will see what the voltmeter says on an extended ride, followed by pulling plastic (argh!) and installing the already-bought fan, and after that if still not good, one of those killer $100 14-amp 2-year-guarantee batteries. I WILL solve this problem or die of frustration trying. Just knocking every piece of wood I see that I don't find stator issues.
YO, big question here though. Unlike the running lights, which are on continuously, I see that at least some of the sellers of LED replacements for turn signals sell them along with a "load resistor" or something like that. Believe I've read somewhere here that LED turn bulbs may blink too fast, or at least faster than normal, unless one has that resistor thingie installed in the circuit. Before I invest $50 or more, somebody with experience please counsel me on this resistor thing.
And then a smaller question. Presently my turn signals, front and back, appear to be 10W, and the tail/brake bulbs say 5W. LED ads don't always specify wattage, but when they do, I haven't found exact wattage equivalents. Have seen 3W, 13W, and higher numbers. Do I compromise in the direction of higher, or lower, or does it matter? Remember, the whole idea of all this is to reduce load on the battery and charging system. (Have also EMailed one of the sellers asking about this, will post any wisdom they have to offer.)
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Post by ellpee on Dec 11, 2013 16:06:16 GMT -6
That really, REALLY sucks. Where are you in the world, Steve?
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No spark
by: ellpee - Dec 11, 2013 16:00:12 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 11, 2013 16:00:12 GMT -6
Elipee, Yea if at IDLE is it reading way high like 3000 then you have it set for to the wrong number. Alleyoop Actually I've been seeing readings LOWER than I would have expected; at what seems like really high revs "by ear" I'm still only showing in the 3000-4000 range. Not a big issue, I really only installed the tach to be able to detect RPM up/down as I play with the idle and mixture screws. That's my summer scoot anyway, it's hibernating for the winter months, so will play with it again in May or so. |
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