Approaching 5000 miles now, 3000 since I bought it, and nothing bad to report other than minor rattles and the like. Starts reliably, runs smoothly, doesn't seem too fussy about regular vs. premium gas. Weather is gradually cooling here in AZ so will probably get to 6000 by the end of the year, at which point I'll find out (and report) about their customer service and the priceyness of their services. Expecting the worst, hoping for anything better.
At the six month point I'm largely grounded by the Arizona summer heat, haven't seen anything south of 100 for weeks unless I get up and out at 4 am, which ain't happenin'. Almost 4500 miles on it now and all good, but at the end of a ride I sometimes hear a high-pitched tone kinda like the microwave makes. Not cooling fan. No warning lights or other indications of trouble, but will want to ask about it at the 6k inspection. Another thing, the exhaust heat gets the panels near the footpegs pretty toasty, not blistering hot but uncomfortable, enough that I have to bend my legs away from the scooter body. Not sure what they could have done about that, longer footrests maybe or more insulation behind those panels? Saw a gripeogram on the Ryker forum about it, so apparently I'm not the only one finding it a minor problem. All in all, life is good, long live CanAm, death to Chinese scooter factories.
Five months in, 2000 miles and no complaints, except no A/C so can't ride as much in the Arizona heat unless I get up at 3 am. One cover panel rattles and my efforts to tighten it have not helped, but nothing I can't live with until the 6000 mile service. What a relief after the constant problems I had to solve with my two Chinese scooters!
Know nothing about your particular scoot, but sounds like a loose connection somewhere, nothing to do with charging the battery. On some scoots, headlights are driven by juice coming off the generator (stator), not the battery. How did the headlights behave before all this? On as soon as key on, or only after engine starts?
As I understand it the sensor provides a variable, heat sensitive ground, so it makes sense that one would change as the engine warms up. The other one, I would assume, is the basic ground for the gauge, reflecting the 12v coming in on the positive wire. So, long and short, all that strikes me as kosher, so I'd tend to agree the gauge itself is fubar. That, however, from a rank amateur about such things.
You don't seem to be getting many answers yet, and unfortunately I'm not much of an expert on the whole spark thing, bad stator maybe? But your post confuses me, you say you're not getting a part but then "... If I use automotive ignition system, I get a REALLY good spark, but no timing advance." Don't know what you mean by that. Can you clarify?
Hmmmm. Well, as I understand it, cranking the engine creates a vacuum back through the manifold to the carb, and that vacuum is supposed to suck petrol from the float chamber through the needle valve into the carb throat to mix with intake air and flow into the manifold, on through the intake valve and ultimately into the cylinder. Pretty straightforward. So if you're saying no gas is making that trip, that the cylinder is dry after cranking, 'tis indeed a puzzlement. What in that simple sequence could be the problem, given you've checked the needle valve and it's clear? One unpleasant thing that comes to mind is that the intake valve isn't opening at all, but maybe on your scoot that's what the "reed valve" is all about? Darn if I know; will join you in thinking about it some more.
Okay, so though you haven't specifically said, I presume the fuel line to the carb IS providing gas, ja? So there's gas sitting in the float chamber ready to be sucked into the manifold and engine, but that's not happening? Sounds like your scoot is quite a bit different from any I've messed with, know nothing about reed valves and no idea what a 2T ol pump is, much less why it's connected to the carb.
Congrats on getting that starter button working. Headlights and taillights likely run off the stator when the engine is turning, so that part makes sense. Your writeups seem to say no fuel at all is getting from the carb into the cylinder. Is that the case? If it's now cranking, and the spark is good, I don't see that there's an electrical problem, although if the CDI is sending that spark at the wrong point in the cycle that could be it I guess. Replacing the CDI with a known good one should eliminate that possibility. However, if no gas is flowing that says fuel lines/carb to me. Seems logical something should be happening in the cylinder if any gas at all is getting there. Not to belabor the obvious, but there is gas flowing INTO the carb, ja? Puzzling, that part. Keep posting, I'm curious how this will turn out.
I know nothing about your bike, but had to deal with the "autochoke" on a couple newer-vintage Chinese scoots so can offer this: the "autochoke" on mine was the exact opposite. Rather than reducing air flow, which is what a choke does to enrich the mixture, it actually allows MORE fuel into the carb initially on startup. More fuel for the same air quantity coming in, presto, richer mixture. Then, after a few minutes the electric current heats it up, which pushes a wee needle valve into an opening to cut off that extra fuel. So if you're getting no fuel at all thru the carb into the manifold and ultimately the cylinder, I wouldn't consider the "autochoke" a likely culprit. Now that may not apply at all to your bike, it might well have an actual choke that does its thing by reducing air flow, but from what you wrote I suspect not.
Curious, though, that even squirting fuel directly into the cylinder won't give you a couple pops, despite good spark. No idea how that could be, maybe someone else here will have some ideas.
As to the start button, clearly an electrical fault there somewhere, loose connection or bad ground or broken wire or maybe even the button switch itself is faulty. On every scooter I've had, the button wouldn't work unless at least one of the brake levers was depressed, and I've read that some scooters also have a similar cutoff on the kickstand so the button won't work with the stand down. Lots of places to check wiring and apply the ol' multimeter!
I know nothing about your bike, but had to deal with the "autochoke" on a couple newer-vintage Chinese scoots so can offer this: the "autochoke" on mine was the exact opposite. Rather than reducing air flow, which is what a choke does to enrich the mixture, it actually allows MORE fuel into the carb initially on startup. More fuel for the same air quantity coming in, presto, richer mixture. Then, after a few minutes the electric current heats it up, which pushes a wee needle valve into an opening to cut off that extra fuel. So if you're getting no fuel at all thru the carb into the manifold and ultimately the cylinder, I wouldn't consider the "autochoke" a likely culprit. Now that may not apply at all to your bike, it might well have an actual choke that does its thing by reducing air flow, but from what you wrote I suspect not. As to the start button, clearly an electrical fault there somewhere, loose connection or bad ground or broken wire or maybe even the button switch itself is faulty. On every scooter I've had, the button wouldn't work unless at least one of the brake levers was depressed, and I've read that some scooters also have a similar cutoff on the kickstand so the button won't work with the stand down. Lots of places to check wiring and apply the ol' multimeter!
Liking the reverse on this scoot. My Magnum had reverse too, but it was very jerky and wanted to jump out from under me as soon as I gave a little gas. Very smooth on the Ryker. I can usually push it back, only weighs about 600 lb, but have found reverse useful a couple times so far. One thing about it, though, I could wish the handlebars were set back just a little further; even in the rearmost adjustment position (oh yeah, did I mention the handlebars and foot/brake pedals are adjustable?) I'm still leaning on the grips all the time, would like to be able to sit back and relax my arms and hands a bit especially on longer rides. Of course that's only for me and my personal arm length, might not bother anybody else. I have an idea on that which I'll discuss with the mechanics when I take it in for maintenance at 6000, but that'll be awhile yet. But in general, life is good these days, no stressing about whether it's gonna leave me stranded somewhere. Hoping there'll be some other Ryker people here eventually.
Jim is a dealer for Ice Bear products, and pretty much the go-to guy for anything related to those, as Ice Bear HQ in California won't sell to retail customers except through a dealer, and their dealer network is pretty thin, to put it mildly. Jim can probably also give pretty good advice on scooter stuff in general if he's so inclined. 96 Main St E, Milltown, WI 54858 (715) 825-3710
But as to your Roketa, I had one for 3-4 years so will offer some thoughts, though I'm by no means an expert. You say the engine starts and runs, if so that's good news. But does the power train work? If you put it up on the center stand with the engine running and give it some gas, what happens? Does the rear wheel try to turn? Do you hear any unusual noises, and if so, from where? Power gets from the engine to the rear wheel through a variator, an adjustable front pulley, a drive belt to the rear wheel, a clutch mechanism there, then a shaft to the wheel. You need to narrow down the possibilities. Post more details here, and you'll likely get lots of responses; I sure did in my Roketa days. As to parts, there are a couple places on line once you have a better idea what you actually need. Looking forward to hearing more from you.
Also, there's a "pinned" post at the very top of this classroom about parts for Chinese scooters, and it has a lot of pretty good sourcing information for various parts, although I don't think there's been a lot of updating, so you may find some of the sources have gone out of business. Still better than nothing.
Hope so. Spoke to dealer yesterday as owner manual says it needs a "first inspection" at 3000 miles, but he looked in all his systems and could find nothing about that, first maintenance not due until 6000. Fine by me -- compare that to all the stuff supposedly required at low mileages for the Chinese scoots. Yay, those days are over for me! Have almost put on my first 1000 miles, trouble free. Knock wood.
Almost a month in now, no problems encountered, gas mileage has been 37.8 across two fillups. Not great, but okay. Wife calls it "the Bumblebee" due to the bright yellow accent panels. (She probably calls it other things because I ride it so much,...)