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Post by ellpee on Oct 6, 2019 9:36:22 GMT -6
New speedo ($65!) arrived from Ice Bear, new one-piece design so no alternative but to remove front wheel and partly disassemble the axle hub. Hope other than that it'll fit and solve the speedo problem.
BUT, issue with mufflers now, heat has again cracked the brackets on one. Have decided to modify the exhaust pipe to support just one after-market muffler, can't be worse than those low quality OEM mufflers. Fancy looking but the "metal" must be made out of peanut butter or something. $50 to modify exhaust pipe, $40 for generic eBay muffler, $20 or so for clamps/hangers/etc. So chalk up one more quality issue against Ice Bear. Brakes, carb, enricher, two fuel pumps, electrical switch and sensor issues, what will go next? This shouldn't be happening at just 2500 miles.
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Post by ellpee on Oct 6, 2019 9:34:03 GMT -6
I would assume that varies by state, but your MVD would be the first place to start asking. Most likely they'll have some protocol for a lost title situation. If seller gives you a bill of sale or similar that would probably help.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 27, 2019 8:54:22 GMT -6
Certainly surprised me.
Just FYI, had to order my speedometer sensor through Rapid Jim, couldn't identify a definite fit on the Internet. About $70, and it requires disassembling the front axle.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 22, 2019 12:03:48 GMT -6
Well, it sat idle at the workshop for quite awhile awaiting Ice Bear parts from China by kayak, so no surprise if something's gummed up. Seems like if jets were clogged there'd be less gas, not more, so will pull the carb and check the float ?and maybe the diaphragm? Or maybe I'll try just spritzing in some carb cleaner first and see if I can avoid some work that way.
AHA! Quick eyeball check reveals carb side of intake manifold cracked bigtime, almost completely separated! Surprised at that, big thick semi-hard rubber, would not have expected a failure there. Back to Amazon!
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Post by ellpee on Sept 21, 2019 10:49:34 GMT -6
So, spark is good, carb flooded -- gas gushes out of the back when I crank it. Fires with a spritz of starter fluid but then quits. Looks like I might need to remove the carb and check it out, something apparently sticking open? Left everything open to air out overnight first, will see tomorrow.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 19, 2019 11:42:55 GMT -6
Posting here because it's probably more carb generic than Magnum-specific. Finally got my 2012 Magnum on the road again today after many months on the sick list for electrical problems. Started fine at first and ran well on a 20-mile road run at mostly 40-50 mph, but about halfway thru -- engine good and hot by this point -- it started missing at lower rpm and wanting to die at stoplights. I presume I need to make some carburetor adjustments, just need a refresher on what to suspect first -- mixture, throttle setting, something else? Might or might not have anything to do with cold versus thoroughly warmed up engine. (For background, I've replaced the OEM vacuum fuel pump with an electrical pump, and the OEM air cleaner box with an AutoZone special that attaches directly to the carb's air intake.} I'm also going to take a look at the spark plug for clues ….
Next day: May have found it, little cone-shaped air filter I installed in place of OEM came loose and fell off, s carb is sucking in too much air. Replacing that might fix the problem, hope so.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 17, 2019 9:26:28 GMT -6
Latest, found speedo sensor down on left side of front wheel, RapidJim looking into whether Ice bear has one in stock and for how much. Part I pulled is just a small plastic gizmo at the end of a wire harness, easy one-screw removal, but everything I've googled shows these sensors with a collar that appears to be integrated into the front wheel hub. Really hoping I don't have to pull and disassemble the front wheel to solve this. Meanwhile though, scooter is all back together and rideable, just don't know how fast or far I'm going for now. Can live with that.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 7, 2019 7:56:03 GMT -6
RapidJim made me aware of a cable on the LEFT side of the front wheel that indeed connects to an electronic sensor for the speedo, and to something somewhere up under the hood, so will have to investigate that before closing everything up again.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 2, 2019 12:39:26 GMT -6
Is that an actual electric sensor down by the front wheel? Shop manual makes it look like a mechanical connection to an old-fashioned speedometer cable, nothing electrical. Shows something with three little cogs and reminds you to be sure they are correctly engaged when assembling/disassembling the front wheel. Or is the sensor you're referring to something up at the top end near the dashboard unit? If the latter, I'd definitely want to deal with it BEFORE putting the windshield and other front plastics back in place.
Also, FWIW, the electrical schematic shows the speedo as part of the dashboard cluster, but it has NO electrical connections whatsoever, unlike the other gauges and idiot lights. Seems to me it must be mechanically driven somehow; will have to identify that speedo cable down at the wheel end and trace it back up to the dashboard.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 1, 2019 17:12:23 GMT -6
My speedo is integrated into the dash with several other things -- temp gauge, fuel gauge, idiot lights -- and there are about a zillion electrical wires running into the back of it. Plus, I assume, an old-fashioned speedo cable I haven't even seen yet at the upper (dashboard) end. So not sure how I could replace all that with something from TrailTech. It's a thought though, will keep it on my back burner while I await other feedback.
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Post by ellpee on Aug 31, 2019 11:18:06 GMT -6
Finally, after months of waiting, my fixit guy seems to have found the gremlins in my 2012 Magnum, and I drove it home yesterday with no problems. I now have to put all the plastics and seats back on, then do some Bondo work on one fender, but one thing remains. The speedometer doesn't work. It lights up but doesn't register mph or miles on the odometer, which it did before all this other stuff. I can live with that and just pace myself by the other traffic and guess at the mileage, but would prefer to fix it and frankly am not sure how it is supposed to work. Looking at the speedo itself and the relevant page of the service manual, it appears to connect to a gizmo on the front wheel that is MECHANICAL rather than electrical -- an old-fashioned speedo cable, not an electrical sensor. The speed display itself is an LED display in the dashboard, but I think the odometer is still a mechanical unit with the little rotating wheels -- not completely sure about that. This is probably not a Magnum-specific question, I imagine most speedos are pretty much alike, so anybody out there who has worked on this particular device, advice welcome.
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Post by ellpee on Aug 15, 2019 9:35:00 GMT -6
Well, moot point for me right now as fixit guy is still chasing the electrical problem that causes lights to flicker at higher rpm. Mom'n'pop operation, has lots of other work that make him more money than my scooter, so it spends a lot of time on the bottom of his priority list. He's the only game in town, though, so just have to wait it out. Would be more frustrating if good riding weather, but look at well over 100 next couple weeks.
If there were a lot of good, affordable, non-Chinese trikes on the market I'd be getting close to putting it on Craigslist "as is" and taking whatever I can get for it, but I'm not interested in any Can-Ams or the like.
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Post by ellpee on Aug 1, 2019 13:04:07 GMT -6
Well, he's checking continuity everywhere again, using the full YP-250 user manual recommended by RapidJim, so we'll see what he finds. It's way above my electrical paygrade, and I can't trust it out on the open road again until this is fully resolved. As you know, there's a thousand different wires and connectors under all that plastic. Just hoping it's nothing big that would involve another endless back order time, like R/R or CDI or stator.
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Post by ellpee on Jul 29, 2019 19:16:23 GMT -6
Long wait to get right handlebar switches installed, finally picked it up, all appeared normal, drove it home and got flickering dash lights again at higher rpm. Taking it back Wednesday for a second look, he says he now suspects bad ground on regulator just from my description of symptoms. The beat goes on …. Considerable reassembly work and plastic repairs once it's finally road ready, won't be making any long trips for awhile. Still way too hot after 9 am and monsoon rains are way too slow in coming.
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Post by ellpee on Jul 2, 2019 17:20:11 GMT -6
Nope, fixit guy hasn't called yet to say it's ready, but when I do get it back home I'll also have to reinstall all the front plastics, ziptie some wires and such back into place, etc. So a few mornings of work between me and the open road. Too hot to work much after 9 am. Also may remove the rear plastics and do some crack repairs again, or have them done. Have asked RapidJim about cost of totally new rear deck, not sure yet if that will be financially realistic.
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