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Post by ellpee on May 20, 2020 13:57:48 GMT -6
Okay, so though you haven't specifically said, I presume the fuel line to the carb IS providing gas, ja? So there's gas sitting in the float chamber ready to be sucked into the manifold and engine, but that's not happening? Sounds like your scoot is quite a bit different from any I've messed with, know nothing about reed valves and no idea what a 2T ol pump is, much less why it's connected to the carb.
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Post by ellpee on May 19, 2020 8:30:29 GMT -6
Congrats on getting that starter button working. Headlights and taillights likely run off the stator when the engine is turning, so that part makes sense. Your writeups seem to say no fuel at all is getting from the carb into the cylinder. Is that the case? If it's now cranking, and the spark is good, I don't see that there's an electrical problem, although if the CDI is sending that spark at the wrong point in the cycle that could be it I guess. Replacing the CDI with a known good one should eliminate that possibility. However, if no gas is flowing that says fuel lines/carb to me. Seems logical something should be happening in the cylinder if any gas at all is getting there. Not to belabor the obvious, but there is gas flowing INTO the carb, ja? Puzzling, that part. Keep posting, I'm curious how this will turn out.
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Post by ellpee on May 18, 2020 16:59:45 GMT -6
I know nothing about your bike, but had to deal with the "autochoke" on a couple newer-vintage Chinese scoots so can offer this: the "autochoke" on mine was the exact opposite. Rather than reducing air flow, which is what a choke does to enrich the mixture, it actually allows MORE fuel into the carb initially on startup. More fuel for the same air quantity coming in, presto, richer mixture. Then, after a few minutes the electric current heats it up, which pushes a wee needle valve into an opening to cut off that extra fuel. So if you're getting no fuel at all thru the carb into the manifold and ultimately the cylinder, I wouldn't consider the "autochoke" a likely culprit. Now that may not apply at all to your bike, it might well have an actual choke that does its thing by reducing air flow, but from what you wrote I suspect not.
Curious, though, that even squirting fuel directly into the cylinder won't give you a couple pops, despite good spark. No idea how that could be, maybe someone else here will have some ideas.
As to the start button, clearly an electrical fault there somewhere, loose connection or bad ground or broken wire or maybe even the button switch itself is faulty. On every scooter I've had, the button wouldn't work unless at least one of the brake levers was depressed, and I've read that some scooters also have a similar cutoff on the kickstand so the button won't work with the stand down. Lots of places to check wiring and apply the ol' multimeter!
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Post by ellpee on May 18, 2020 16:56:20 GMT -6
I know nothing about your bike, but had to deal with the "autochoke" on a couple newer-vintage Chinese scoots so can offer this: the "autochoke" on mine was the exact opposite. Rather than reducing air flow, which is what a choke does to enrich the mixture, it actually allows MORE fuel into the carb initially on startup. More fuel for the same air quantity coming in, presto, richer mixture. Then, after a few minutes the electric current heats it up, which pushes a wee needle valve into an opening to cut off that extra fuel. So if you're getting no fuel at all thru the carb into the manifold and ultimately the cylinder, I wouldn't consider the "autochoke" a likely culprit. Now that may not apply at all to your bike, it might well have an actual choke that does its thing by reducing air flow, but from what you wrote I suspect not.
As to the start button, clearly an electrical fault there somewhere, loose connection or bad ground or broken wire or maybe even the button switch itself is faulty. On every scooter I've had, the button wouldn't work unless at least one of the brake levers was depressed, and I've read that some scooters also have a similar cutoff on the kickstand so the button won't work with the stand down. Lots of places to check wiring and apply the ol' multimeter!
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Post by ellpee on Apr 18, 2020 17:43:28 GMT -6
Liking the reverse on this scoot. My Magnum had reverse too, but it was very jerky and wanted to jump out from under me as soon as I gave a little gas. Very smooth on the Ryker. I can usually push it back, only weighs about 600 lb, but have found reverse useful a couple times so far. One thing about it, though, I could wish the handlebars were set back just a little further; even in the rearmost adjustment position (oh yeah, did I mention the handlebars and foot/brake pedals are adjustable?) I'm still leaning on the grips all the time, would like to be able to sit back and relax my arms and hands a bit especially on longer rides. Of course that's only for me and my personal arm length, might not bother anybody else. I have an idea on that which I'll discuss with the mechanics when I take it in for maintenance at 6000, but that'll be awhile yet. But in general, life is good these days, no stressing about whether it's gonna leave me stranded somewhere. Hoping there'll be some other Ryker people here eventually.
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Post by ellpee on Apr 3, 2020 19:16:21 GMT -6
Jim is a dealer for Ice Bear products, and pretty much the go-to guy for anything related to those, as Ice Bear HQ in California won't sell to retail customers except through a dealer, and their dealer network is pretty thin, to put it mildly. Jim can probably also give pretty good advice on scooter stuff in general if he's so inclined.
96 Main St E, Milltown, WI 54858
(715) 825-3710
But as to your Roketa, I had one for 3-4 years so will offer some thoughts, though I'm by no means an expert. You say the engine starts and runs, if so that's good news. But does the power train work? If you put it up on the center stand with the engine running and give it some gas, what happens? Does the rear wheel try to turn? Do you hear any unusual noises, and if so, from where? Power gets from the engine to the rear wheel through a variator, an adjustable front pulley, a drive belt to the rear wheel, a clutch mechanism there, then a shaft to the wheel. You need to narrow down the possibilities. Post more details here, and you'll likely get lots of responses; I sure did in my Roketa days. As to parts, there are a couple places on line once you have a better idea what you actually need. Looking forward to hearing more from you.
Also, there's a "pinned" post at the very top of this classroom about parts for Chinese scooters, and it has a lot of pretty good sourcing information for various parts, although I don't think there's been a lot of updating, so you may find some of the sources have gone out of business. Still better than nothing.
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Post by ellpee on Mar 26, 2020 11:17:32 GMT -6
Hope so. Spoke to dealer yesterday as owner manual says it needs a "first inspection" at 3000 miles, but he looked in all his systems and could find nothing about that, first maintenance not due until 6000. Fine by me -- compare that to all the stuff supposedly required at low mileages for the Chinese scoots. Yay, those days are over for me! Have almost put on my first 1000 miles, trouble free. Knock wood.
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Post by ellpee on Mar 15, 2020 11:18:59 GMT -6
Almost a month in now, no problems encountered, gas mileage has been 37.8 across two fillups. Not great, but okay. Wife calls it "the Bumblebee" due to the bright yellow accent panels. (She probably calls it other things because I ride it so much,...)
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Post by ellpee on Mar 8, 2020 13:58:20 GMT -6
Just bought a Ryker a couple weeks ago, used 2019 with about 1800 miles on it, the 600 with windshield, "trunk," and bright yellow accent panels as add-ons. Have signed up for the Ryker forum, but want to stay loyal to this forum as well, so will share my experiences here and hope for tales and tips from others as time goes by. Fun ride so far, the 46(?)hp put out by the 600 is plenty for this ol'geezer, and the ride is okay. Bumpy pavement makes itself felt, but that was the case with both of my previous Chinese scooters too. Liking the electronics on this one, various nice-to-have dashboard options, self-canceling turn signals, automatic shutdown if I leave it idling for too long, reminder beep to always set the parking brake. Could wish for more storage space, but there are aftermarket options out there if I decide to act on that. Surprised it prefers premium gas, but that's a small enough price to pay, I guess. So, here I am and here it is, feel free to contribute thoughts, ideas, and experiences.  |
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Post by ellpee on Mar 8, 2020 13:50:14 GMT -6
Roger that, will likely start a new thread, RykerTales by Ellpee.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 26, 2020 18:32:10 GMT -6
Here it is, if I can get the picture-posting thing to work. Lots of fun so far, and all the pep I need at my age. Have had it at 75 on the Interstate briefly, no problem and still lots of throttle. Allegedly will do 95 or so, but I never plan to find out. Good thing is, it came with a windshield, small "trunk," and even bright yellow decorative panels, $600 or so in extras at the Ryker dealer, and I would likely have bought them eventually anyway, so I'm happy. Hope Canadian quality turns out to be a LOT better than Chinese. PS after a week or so and about 150 miles: it will run okay on 87 octane, but prefers the Good Stuff (and no ethanol); mileage is only about 32mpg, so if fuel economy is your #1 criterion, don't set your expectations too high. Not complaining, just letting everyone know. |
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Post by ellpee on Feb 11, 2020 9:41:35 GMT -6
Final chapter: used 2019 Ryker 600, ~1800 miles, from Phoenix, $9400 delivered to my doorstep in Tucson. Even has the optional windshield and luggage box. Elpee rides again! Probably won't go 110mph, but then neither would I.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 8, 2020 8:01:33 GMT -6
Agree, something not right there.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 7, 2020 9:27:18 GMT -6
Nothing is ever easy. 25 days after I test-rode it, the guy selling the 900 still hadn't been able to produce a clean title, so I blew him off and went to the local Ryker dealer to talk about the left-over 2019 600 they had priced at about $7200. Was expecting maybe another thousand for taxes, tags, title, and minor fees, but they want an additional $3K to drive it out the door! "Destination fees," supposedly. That struck me as totally unreasonable, so I am scooterless until further notice.
Chapter 2, checked with another out-of-town dealer and got prices for all the extra stuff. Total was $1800, far less than the Tucson people want but still a lot. Buying a car, one assumes taxes, tags, title and document fee, but all the other dealer add-on crap is usually built into the sticker price. Not so with CanAm products, apparently; the "sticker price" they advertise is only the bare-bones starter price. Another lesson learned. May still go with the out of town guy, but it involves a 90-mile trip each way.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 22, 2020 14:35:07 GMT -6
So, in a final chapter to my Magnum tale-of-woe, I got the exhaust system all set up again and put on the front plastics, then took it for a test run. The missing at higher RPM was gone, but on the way back home it completely died again. I left it at the side of the road, called a donate-vehicles-to-veterans number, and it was just picked up at no cost to me and a $500 tax deduction.
On the other hand, after ten days the seller of the Ryker has yet to come up with a paid-off title. Giving him a deadline, if not I'll just buy a brand new Ryker 600 and move on with my life.
Why is nothing ever SIMPLE???
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