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Post by ellpee on Dec 22, 2013 12:27:04 GMT -6
Hoping after all the electrical changes I won't need that backup battery, but we'll see. I got most of my LEDs from Warden_jp2002, an EBay vendor Alley pointed me to. Hong Kong or somewhere in Asia, but free shipping no matter how small the order. Bought two 1157 equivalents at the local Honda dealer, but they were $18 each; considerably cheaper with Warden.
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Cold
by: ellpee - Dec 22, 2013 12:20:11 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 22, 2013 12:20:11 GMT -6
Got my cold credentials growing up on the southern tip of Lake Michigan, but have found a better way.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 22, 2013 9:50:36 GMT -6
Thanks, Alley; I really need to get in the habit of running my searches on ATV as well as Scooter. Now I'll log onto Roketa and tell them to pound sand.
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Cold
by: ellpee - Dec 22, 2013 9:41:59 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 22, 2013 9:41:59 GMT -6
Yeah, we're having a cold spell here in Tucson too, probably won't make it to 70 today. (Sorry, couldn't resist.)
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Windshield
by: ellpee - Dec 22, 2013 9:38:33 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 22, 2013 9:38:33 GMT -6
Saving this link for sure. Not going to invest $100+ now, but if anything happens to my Roketa windshield this looks like a great replacement.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 21, 2013 17:12:40 GMT -6
Would love to post pix but have the plastic loosened just enough to slip a hand up underneath, or peek up between all the wires, so the pix wouldn't be worth much. I have confirmed, though, that coolant overflow system starts at the radiator cap, under the seat; rubber tubing fastened with cheap Chinese clamp, but hey, it hasn't come loose -- yet. That rubber tube runs up to the front of the scoot and attaches to the BOTTOM of the overflow bottle, again cheap Chinese clamp. Then, a second rubber tube attaches to the TOP of the overflow bottle, with a third cheap Chinese clamp. And the other end of that second tube attaches to nothing, just hangs down, nicely decorated with a fourth cheap Chinese clamp. So my whole overflow system is as it should be, and I added enough coolant to the bottle so I can just barely see it when I remove the cap. Presumably if it gets hot some of that may run off through the dangling tube, but that's what it's for. BTW, just got an EMail from RoketaPartsOnLine telling me they're "trying to find one {the left switch assembly} somewhere in the US," which doesn't give me much hope. I ordered it last spring and the same thing happened, so I cancelled the order. So for the present I'll just live with the hinky turn signal switch and give Roketa awhile to find the part. (I took it apart one more time and examined everything, but could not spot the problem.) Plastic goes back on as soon as I can get to it, followed by a test run or two with the new fan. If anybody knows of another source for that switch assembly please let me know, but I went to several sites and if they had it listed at all, it was "out of stock." It's the one with a nine-pin connector and two other wires. Attachments:
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 22:23:25 GMT -6
I went out and investigated the overflow bottle. The tube that brings coolant INTO the bottle when necessary comes from back in the engine area, which makes sense; I;m sure it probably connects at the radiator pressure cap, similar to cars, and on my scoot that is located under the seat, visible when I remove the cover to the battery compartment. The tube connects to the overflow bottle at the bottom, which also makes sense. The dangling tube I'm talking about connects to the TOP of the overflow bottle, is about 18" or so long, and just hangs down, going nowhere, even though it has one of those chintzy Chinese "bent paperclip" clamps at the loose end. So I'm forced to conclude that it is for overflow, pure and simple. As to the overflow bottle itself, I determined that mine does have maybe an inch of coolant in the bottom; believe I'll probably add just a bit more to be safe, but I've had no cooling issues or coolant leaks even in the Arizona heat. Gauge goes up to about the halfway mark, fan comes on, never goes higher. Of course when the fan comes on is when my charging system issues begin, but that's another story.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 16:55:22 GMT -6
Yeah, me too. Numbers in the 14's would be great, but if I can get 12.5 or better consistently with that fan running I'll be happy, at least then I'll know it's not slowly nibbling away at my battery charge so next time I stop somewhere it won't start again. That takes a lot of the fun out of scootering.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 16:47:20 GMT -6
Will look at that, Alley, while I have at least a little visibility of all that stuff under the plastic. I do know that there is little or nothing in that overflow tank right now, and I would imagine it is supposed to have at least 2-3" of juice in it, no?
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 13:48:54 GMT -6
Batteries Plus wants $80 to $140 for the 14Ah best I can recall, depending on warranty (best is two years), so yeah, pricey.
First after-action report: got the fan installed this morning. Good news is the mounting holes were exactly like the OEM fan, no creativity required. In fact, the two fans looked virtually identical, sure hope after all this I didn't already have a low amperage fan!
Bad news is that, while I could just barely get at the fan from the front, enough to remove the two bolts and be able to pull it out from the bottom, the darn CONNECTOR was way the bejeezus up under the black center plastic that covers fuel tank, etc. So I wound up removing a bunch more screws and bolts so I could pull that plastic up enough to do what needed doing. Never did get it completely off, something underneath still holding it. But a minor side benefit was, I discovered some loose and missing bolts and screws and was able to tighten them again with plenty of LocTite where appropriate. Haven't run the scoot yet with the new fan, waiting for my new left switch assembly to arrive in the mail while I still have things pretty well opened up. I can see the nine-wire connector up underneath there, so I'm thinking that'll be an easy swap-out. Also still need the four LED bulbs for the turn signals, after which time to see if the charging system looks any better. If not, only thing left is an on/off switch for headlights, or that expensive gorilla battery, or both. This darn $2K scooter will be up to $3K pretty soon at this rate!
Oh, while messing around I also discovered that overflow hose from the radiator system that you posted about, and at the loose end it actually had a clamp on it, as if it was supposed to attach somewhere, but I saw no possibilities for that, so just left it dangling.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 8:57:11 GMT -6
Put the volt meter on it and just like always at IDLE it is cranking 14.4-14.5 Alleyoop I envy you. Hope I'll soon be seeing numbers better than my just-barely-13. (And that, mind you, BEFORE the fan ever kicks in.)
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Post by ellpee on Dec 20, 2013 8:52:36 GMT -6
Somewhat annoying how they change piddly little stuff that was just fine before. Better they should concentrate on fixing big engineering issues to produce a higher-quality scoot. But then, back in the day Detroit thought they needed to completely change the look of their cars every year.
Any suggestions on where to tap into the headlight circuit to install an on/off? Could one of the wires off the fusebox do the trick, or do I need to get under the front plastic somewhere? On my trusty YY250T wiring diagram it looks like the same power feed goes to ALL the various lights, but I wonder (since I'll shortly be replacing it anyway) if one of the many wires going to that left switch assembly would serve to interrupt ONLY the headlight circuit.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 21:30:02 GMT -6
Interesting. On mine the top is emergency flashers, middle is kill switch, bottom is start button. Looks like if I want to do it I need to figure out best place to tap into the headlight circuit.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 21:24:20 GMT -6
Interesting. On mi
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Post by ellpee on Dec 19, 2013 18:30:58 GMT -6
Discovered since original post that daytime headlight is optional in AZ, so that concern goes away. Alley, did you wire it that way? If so, where in the circuit did you install that switch? I'm getting ready to replace the entire left switch assembly -- hi/lo beam, turns, hi-beam flash -- and that might be a good time to try installing this on/off switch as well.
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