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Post by ellpee on Dec 11, 2013 15:51:57 GMT -6
My initial contribution will be, that confuses me. Are you saying, with turn signal switch in left position front blinks left and rear blinks right, and with turn signal switch in right position it does the opposite? Or does it blink front left/rear right in either position? Or something different from that?
I too have problems with that switch assembly, but don't have an answer to your specific problem even if I understood it. I can tell you, though, that you can replace the whole switch assembly for about $30. In your shoes I would NOT do that, though, until I'm sure the problem is not somewhere further downstream. The switch assembly plugs into a connector under the front plastic somewhere, and it seems entirely possible to me that something is miswired "south" of that connector and the switch itself is fine.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 10, 2013 21:24:57 GMT -6
Oops, here I am badmouthing realtors to a realtor. But I stand by what I said -- the vast majority of the time, my belief is that it's about sell quick/pocket commission/move on, and for the appraisers and inspectors who DON'T work on commission it's about don't say anything in your report that might queer the sale or your phone may not ring again any time soon. Nothing we can do about it, though, for sale by owner is a real pain. I can't see why the effort to sell a million-dollar home is worth ten times the effort to sell a $100,000 home, but that's just the way it is. I am no longer a RE agent. And I do agree with your complaints. They are true in my mind too. Put your six shooter away as we are buddies. . No six shooter here, Bob, just didn't want to be phony and pretend to abandon my convictions on the subject out of embarrassment. And from what you write, I suspect you may have been one of the very few exceptions to Ellpee's Rule About Realtors. But for Tomcat, TEN TIMES more? Sorry, ain't buyin' it. Same basic skills involved, they're just dealing with people who have more, or less, money in their bank account. Granted, agents who get the big-bucks listings generally have more experience, contacts, and possibly a better track record; maybe that makes them worth twice as much, but not 10x. Not that it will ever change, regardless of my opinion. Deviating slightly from that train of thought, last time I sold a house the agent sold it in about two days, BECAUSE she had sold the identical house next door and I contacted her because I figured she probably had prospects already lined up. She did, quick sale, but she STILL got to put 6 or 7 percent in her pocket for almost zero effort. The commission system stinks, IMNSHO. But that's the last I'll be posting about it, doesn't belong in this classroom anyway. |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 10, 2013 10:53:13 GMT -6
Oops, here I am badmouthing realtors to a realtor. But I stand by what I said -- the vast majority of the time, my belief is that it's about sell quick/pocket commission/move on, and for the appraisers and inspectors who DON'T work on commission it's about don't say anything in your report that might queer the sale or your phone may not ring again any time soon. Nothing we can do about it, though, for sale by owner is a real pain. I can't see why the effort to sell a million-dollar home is worth ten times the effort to sell a $100,000 home, but that's just the way it is.
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thermostat
by: ellpee - Dec 10, 2013 8:48:13 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 10, 2013 8:48:13 GMT -6
Hope I never need to get at either of those -- looks like every shred of plastic has to come off!
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Post by ellpee on Dec 10, 2013 8:39:22 GMT -6
Don't know where you are in CG, so you're probably right about the mileage, although the mileage shown on highway signs reflects downtown Tucson, about 10 miles difference. Off subject, but I agree on realtors. Whether you're buying or selling, NOBODY works for you -- not the agents, not the mortgage brokers, not the title companies, not the appraisers, not the home inspectors, NOBODY. They all want to move properties as fast as possible, pocket the money, and move on to the next one. Their "advice" on price is totally based on that, unless they happen to be your brother-in-law, and even then I'd be skeptical. If you push back, as you have done, they just move you to the back burner and expend their effort on the ones they can sell quickly. Unfortunately, they have collectively built a system, with government collaboration, where you are completely at their mercy.
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No spark
by: ellpee - Dec 8, 2013 20:58:51 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 8, 2013 20:58:51 GMT -6
I would think the people that sent you a new harness/CDI set up would know that it would work or not? Even if the magnets were not correct it would still spark if everything else is right, question is would it spark at the right time? Remember with a CDI system it fires on both strokes the exhaust and intake even though only one is needed. JR Been following this thread even though it's mostly well above my head, but that last sentence answers a lingering question about my after-market tach. It has various settings for how many sparks per rev, and I've been thinking all along that it only fires at the top of the compression stroke. That explains why the readings have never made much sense to me. |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 8, 2013 20:48:29 GMT -6
Bob -- there's a Harbor Freight on the northwest side of Tucson, Ina Road exit 248, then about a mile east -- north side of the street, sits back a little ways from the street. If you get to the Ina Road/Thornydale Road intersection you've gone a tad too far. As I recall Casa Grande is something like exit 205, so 45 minutes or so at 75mph?
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Post by ellpee on Dec 7, 2013 17:51:27 GMT -6
Yep ellpee, I took the hard way to learn by just going after things as I saw them. Next time I will check the wiring connections first and then if necessary, take the path allyoop suggested of removing the metal bar inside and then would be able to pull the lamp out and not need to take off the turn light 'bump'. . . True dat. In my case, my knowledge comes from having crunched the bump twice, and therefore having to remove it anyhow. |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 7, 2013 17:49:11 GMT -6
I dunno, I could easily imagine the lubricant in the speedo cable getting thick and stiff in cold conditions. There may be other possible causes, but that's the first one that pops into my head. Cure? Disconnect the cable at both ends, flush it (in a warm environment) with mineral spirits or similar, and then lube it with something other than cheapo made-in-China grease -- teflon, silicone, something like that. Will be interested to see what the real gurus say.
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thermostat
by: ellpee - Dec 7, 2013 9:11:38 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 7, 2013 9:11:38 GMT -6
As I understand it the temperature sensor is an electrical gizmo that turns on the fan at a certain temperature, while a thermostat is a mechanical gizmo (bimetal spring concept) somewhere in the coolant flow circuit that opens at a certain temperature and allows coolant to circulate. I am only ass u me ing that scooters even HAVE a thermostat, have certainly never seen mine on either scoot. Be that as it may, I think thermostats are pretty generic, so pulling the old one and taking it to AutoZone or a cycle shop should work. Best I can recollect from my auto tinkering days, aside from physical size, which has to be exactly right, thermostats come in various temperature ranges, i.e., they open/close at higher or lower coolant temperatures. So if for some reason you want your engine to run cooler you would opt for a lower-temp thermostat that allows coolant to start circulating sooner. As to temperature sensor, I dunno if they are generic enough that places like AutoZone would have a replacement, but odds are a cycle shop would.
Casa Grande, eh? Maybe if I can figure out how without doing I-10 I'll scooter up some time and say hi. We can compare notes about our aching backs.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 7, 2013 9:00:44 GMT -6
OK, near to finishing putting it all back together. One more screw to hold the outer silver cover over the lens, then put the front panel on over the windshield and it will be all done. Problem fixed. First had to take out and put the lamp assembly back together properly. The lamp socket part had slipped out of the reflector part so I could not easily turn the lamp to get it out. Then I saw that the cable was disconnected from the harness under the scoot body above the wheel. So I worked in the blind with my shorty Phillips screwdriver to remove the outer cover. Then found the clear part had a screw covered by the outer cover. Then removed three screws that held the lamp housing to the body. Now with the lamp housing and cable free I could once again get the lamp housing back into the reflector part properly and install the lamp. Then following reverse sequence and again working blind, I was able to get all back on the scoot. Very tiring for my old back and very frustrating to have to work in the blind. But certainly a lot quicker and easier that stripping the front end to try to find or fix something. As soon as I had reset the lamp housing and installed the bulb I did a light test. It worked fine. So then I started the replacement process. . I take it from this post that you did figure out that the turn signal "bump" can be removed without pulling off the entire front plastic panel. Don't ever dump your scoot, I've learned that those two crummy pieces of plastic (turn signal unit and decorative cover) cost about $80 from Roketa with shipping, and if there's a cheaper source I haven't found it yet. |
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thermostat
by: ellpee - Dec 6, 2013 11:09:53 GMT -6
Post by ellpee on Dec 6, 2013 11:09:53 GMT -6
Whoa there, Grasshopper -- "temperature sensor" and "thermostat" are two different animals. You wanna be sure which you're talking about and which you're ordering.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 6, 2013 11:01:47 GMT -6
Speaking as one who has trashed his left turn signal twice already: the turn signal unit can be removed by removing some screws underneath the front plastic panel, plus there are some of those plastic slot clips to deal with. The turn signal unit is one part and includes, the bulb, socket, clear cover and wiring, the decorative cover matching the color of the scooter is a separate part. Both outrageously expensive, in my opinion, BTW, but your problem is only a bulb, so not a concern for you. Might be a good time to consider replacing standard bulbs with LEDs, though. Otherwise, the bulb is a pretty standard amber-colored 1157 best I can recall; don't have access to my scooter right now, but just went through this whole bulb thing a few weeks ago.
Oh, and you can also get at the front running lights, those little jobbies next to the headlights, without removing plastic, just reach up underneath and grab the back of socket, twist it a quarter turn or so, and you've got it. Headlights, whole nother subject -- never done it, hope I never have to.
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Post by ellpee on Dec 4, 2013 9:29:28 GMT -6
Okay then -- went into a classroom, then into one of its threads, screenshotting as I went, and stuck them all in a Word document that is attached. My question, which is really just one of curiosity, is whether the appearance and disappearance of those NEW flags is related to my specific logon ID. I suspect it is, that somehow the forum keeps track of who I am and what I have or have not read, and puts flags on things I haven't yet opened. Looking at some of the classrooms I never go to, it appears the NEW flags hang around for 2-3 weeks before going away. Attachments:At.doc (123.5 KB)
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Post by ellpee on Dec 4, 2013 8:55:08 GMT -6
I'll try that later today. Worst case, I'll put one or more screenshots into a Word document and attach it. I see the NEW flag both at classroom level and and individual thread level. Once I go into that classroom or into that thread, then leave, the NEW flag is gone. On the other hand, if I DON'T go into a classroom or thread flagged as NEW, that flag hangs around for some time.
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