2007 jonway yy 250 t By ronscycle1 (Read 15,080 times)

[yoster]

I second the motion to not get this eBay version: .ebay.com/itm/voltage-regulator-rectifier-For-Scooter-moped-GY6-CF250-/160775507104?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ef78ca0&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/voltage-regulator-rectifier-For-Scooter-moped-GY6-CF250-/160775507104?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ef78ca0&vxp=mtr

I went through two of those versions - both wigged out on me after 20 minutes. They're physically smaller than the OEM R/R and as mentioned, not designed to handle the power required. They held 14.5v well but after they heated up (usually after a few fan on/off cycles,) they'd self destruct - internal short and would stop working. Before pooping out, when they'd hold 14.5v, once the fan kicked on they couldn't keep up at all. They were acting as a bottleneck in the charging system.

The one listed at powersports max is the correct one, but I went through two of those.. each had their own issue (one capped at 13v for some reason, one at 16v and would overheat and burn out lights.) When this chinese version works, it works fine.. it's just finding one that works properly that's the hard part. I finally threw up my hands and purchased the OMP R/R after eyeing it for awhile.. Todd was the first one to bite the bullet and after seeing his success I followed suit. Like Cruiser said.. the charging system is still weak, but the R/R is no longer my bottleneck. Definitely a good peace of mind thing for me. Of course eliminating the diode in place for a relay helped here as well.

[ronscycle1]

so jr the regulator i need is part number 269-999006 ?

[JR]

Ron I don't know what that number is? You neede a 6 wire R/R with the two plug system.

One plug has the 3 yellow AC wires and the other has the red.black and green.

The ones the guys listed here are good R/R's and they know they fit and work well.

JR

[cadman]

JR,
I was reading this since my Jonway has the same problem. I am changing the ground wires and such. The Stator tests good and the regulator is new. I saw the posts about the diode and found it. The plug was melted to the diode. I cut the wires and connected them together. My voltage at the battery jumped to 13, but the wires that connected to the diode get fairly hot. You can touch the insulation but the bare wires where I connected them are too hot to hold.

Is it normal for these wires to get this hot or do I have a bad wire or short someplace?

I am replacing the diode with a relay as shown in the above posts, but was wondering why the wires get hot or if it was normal.

Edit: should mention there is only one bolt holding the regulator to the frame. I am getting a second bolt.

[JR]

The R/R will get pretty warm but the wires getting hot is a no-no. Warm but not so hot you can't hold them.

You've either got a very bad wire connection or very bad ground to cause this kind of heat related load. Also the R/R must be bolted up and grounded very well. Clean the paint off of the frame where it bolts up to so you can insure a correctly grounded R/R.

Also check all the plugs and such even the 3 yellow wires from the stator going to the R/R. Make sure all 3 wires are making good connection at the plug.

Also just for kicks unplug the didode and jump the wires where it pulgs in at and then see if they get too hot to hold. Start it and check. Don't pannick as soon as you jump it the headlights will come on.

Also welcome to the forum!

JR

[cadman]

I could not unplug it, the plug was melted to the diode. I cut the wires and twisted them together. It is not red hot but pretty warm. I think the grounds may be my problem. I will get a second bolt and remove some paint to insure good connections. I have found several connections going to lights and such that were loose or bad, so this does not surprise me. I got it used and cheap, so I don't mind playing around with it. I think it was a deal at $300 and all I have done is replace the regulator (which was probably good), rebuild the carb (set up for two years), and now replace the diode/relay. Since it will replace my 12mph truck as my ride to work daily, it should pay for itself in a few months.

I should mention the diode was not even bolted to the frame, it was just hanging by the wires when I found it.

Thanks for the welcome, nice forum to learn a lot about these scooters.

[JR]

Diode unbolted another no-no. Thanks for the compliment and go to the tech section for the PDI. Let's strip her and get all those electrical gremlins out, change out all the Chinese fluids and get this very nice cheap $300 scooter paid for quick in gas savings!

JR

[cadman]

Already changed all the fluids. The Electrical is the last issue. I saw the PDI in the tech section.

Do you know what the extra wires on the right rear are for? They are bundled up right past the regulator? Also have a red wire hanging loose that is in the same bundle as the auto choke. Has a connector on it, but I can't find any place for it to plug into. Did these scooters run extra wires for add on accessories?

[ronscycle1]

im sry but i still dont know what rectfier to order

[JR]

Jun 18, 2012 20:49:59 GMT -6 ronscycle1 said:

im sry but i still dont know what rectfier to order

This one, order it.

.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/354/products_id/13383" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/354/products_id/13383

It will plug right in and do the job.

JR

[JR]

Jun 8, 2012 19:48:13 GMT -6 cadman said:

Already changed all the fluids. The Electrical is the last issue. I saw the PDI in the tech section.

Do you know what the extra wires on the right rear are for? They are bundled up right past the regulator? Also have a red wire hanging loose that is in the same bundle as the auto choke. Has a connector on it, but I can't find any place for it to plug into. Did these scooters run extra wires for add on accessories?

Sorry cadman I didn't see this, the only red wire in that area should go to the battery or R/R? Can you send a picture of the wires in that area?

[dleonard]

jr,
I have been following along ron's issue is kind of like mine.
I checked the diode with an ohmeter and got what I concider a defective diode reading (Infinate one way and 20 ohms the other). I jumped the connector but saw no voltage increase at the battery. When plugged in the readings are 14+ volts on the yellow wire and 12.68 v on the red wire. I also checked the voltage coming out at the red wire from the R/R and get 14+ volts. At the plug the red wire becomes brown and goes to the fuse block under the seat and comes out yellow. I have a 2008 jonway(Massimo) yy250t. Am I missing something here
Just for my own info when I check the mag output across the yellow wires I get 30 volts between each wire is that added to reach 60+ volts?

[cruiser]

The 14+ volts on the R/R red wire is good. Are you saying that the battery is showing 12.68 volts with the engine running? There is no increase when you jumper the diode? Sounds like you have a poor connection between the output of the R/R and the battery. I would not rule out the diode also, but you should check the wiring between the R/R and the battery first. May have to increase the wire size like many of us have already done.

[JR]

First of all Welcome to the forum! Ok let's take it one thing at a time.

The stator wires going to the R/R are yellow and this is a 3-phase stator and yes you should test it at idle and at 5k RPM. Your test pattern should be as follows and if you can number the wires, it assures you are testing all 3 of them to make sure they are the same;

1 to 2
1 to 3
2 to 3

At 5k RPM you should read 60Vac +

Now the blocking diode I'm a little confused on your test but it's a one way item and you should read ohms resistance one way and none the other. Just reverse the wires when testing. A lot of people are replacing the diode with a relay.

Now here's where I'm confused a little bit more on your tests? The 14 + volts on the red wire out of the R/R is very good and I'm presuming you mean at idle and revved up on the plus part. This tells me the R/R and stator are good.

So the 12.68 must be after it passes through the blocking diode? And the 14 volts on the yellow wire? Is this out of the fuse box?

Now the brown wire ties into the red before the blocking diode and goes to the fuse box and comes out yellow and heads to the dimmer switch. The fuse box has 4 circuits and 3 of them feed off of the black wire from the key switch while the lighting circuit is seperate and is only hot when the scooter is running.

So now you need to take a voltage reading on the battery and it needs to be fully charged when you do with it idling and revvved up to at leat 5k RPM.

Here's what the killer is with this scooter charging set up. The OEM fan on this scooter pulls about 6 amps when on. The stator isn't as big as it's sister scooter the linhai and when you add the extra wiring, fuses and a lot of times poor quality Chinese wire and connectors you end up with a non-charged or improperly charged battery.

I have a friend who is a Honda mechanic and he said they even had the same issues with the Honda Reflex which this scooter is a copy of.

So if you're getting 14Vdc out of the R/R and don't have at least 13.5Vdc at the battery then you've got a bad wire, bad connection, bad diode or all three.

Check the pins in each plug, the wire connections and wires. I helped a guy do some re-wiring his scooter that is the same model and we replaced the wires from the R/R to the battery, put in a relay in place of the blocking diode and re-worked all the wires on his fuse box. We gained about 0.75 Vdc which is a lot on these scooters. The blocking diode looses some voltage itself.

We replaced his fan with a fan like on the linhai that draws about 3 amps and then put LED's in front to back. Added a good 12AH/210CCA battery and he's never had an issue since.

Some here on this forum have also went to a better custom made R/R.

Keep us informed we're here to help.

JR

[dleonard]

Thank you Cruiser and Jr for the welcome and new info.
#1 I did not run the RPM to 5k when testing the stator, all test were at idle.
#2 The red wire coming out of the R/R reads 14+ volts at idle but drops to 12.2 at 3000 rpm, with the cooling fan running.
the wire color of that wire changes at a connector about 6 inches from the R/R to brown. I have traced it to the fuse block as stated before.
#3 when the diode is plugged in I have appox. 13.4 volts on the yellow wire at idle with the cooling fan on. When I raised the rpm to 3000 the voltage dropped to 11.2v. The red wire to the diode reads appox. 12.5 at idle and at 3000 rpm with the fan running. (The battery showed 12.85 volts before starting.)
#4 unplugged the diode and putting in a good jumper wire (not the paper clip used before) I got 13.3 volts at idle with the fan running on both wires. Did not check at high rpm.
#5 at the fuse block (fan on) both the brown and yellow wires had 14.4 volts. At 3000 rpm they both dropped to 11.8 volts.
#6 I went to work and got my Fluke to check the diode for continuity with the beeper and got no beep just a very low ohms reading one way and open the other.
My questions are why the voltage drop at higher rpm, does the fused red wire going to the battery charge the battery, and do I have to cut open the harness to find splices and trace the wires. They have got the same wire colors going everywhere.
I just want to ride!!
By the way this is the Gulf Coast of Texas cooling fans on everything run all the time 12 months a year.
Thanks,
Daryl