|
|
Post by JR on Apr 22, 2012 20:41:06 GMT -6
Yes for sure give Dave one of our prefered vendors with Abscooters a call, he knows the YY250T and can get this bolt. JR  |
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 49
A+'s: 0
Joined: Mar 30, 2012 10:06:06 GMT -6
|
Post by ronscycle1 on May 15, 2012 20:08:44 GMT -6
im still having trouble with this scooter charging , it has a new regulator on it ,i disconnected the red wire from the regulator coupler regulator side and connected volt meter to red wire and ground shouldnt i get like 14 volts but im only getting about 6 plz help me
|
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 49
A+'s: 0
Joined: Mar 30, 2012 10:06:06 GMT -6
|
Post by ronscycle1 on May 15, 2012 20:20:24 GMT -6
could i set up a time like maybe sat. where someone could walk me thru the testing of the charging system ,while we were online
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on May 15, 2012 20:46:17 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by tvnacman on May 16, 2012 3:41:23 GMT -6
can you post a pic of your regulator ? If you have the regulator I think you do I have a quick test for you .
John
|
|
|
|
Post by damin69 on May 16, 2012 8:39:51 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by damin69 on May 16, 2012 8:41:20 GMT -6
Ok results today. Drove in to work this am running Hwy speeds all the way. 5000-5200 rpms. 57-60 mph. Fan came on about half way to work. Even with Fan on voltage was Steady all the way to work at 12.7 volts. .. Ok this was a positive but not the end of test as it was only 67 degrees this am. Big test is Ride home this after noon. 88 degrees with Heat index around 96. Plus I was bucking a head wind all the way. Ok Final Results 12.68 volts when I get home. I had Both headlights and I was able to Shutoff scooter and Start it.... Now this is a HUGE FIRST.......... I have never been able to do that since I bought my Scooter.. Ok on to the Break down of the Winning Combo 1. 7" Cooling Fan .siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb55" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb552. Regulator Rectifier 100% Worth Every Penny. The very bottom one (VRRPM3H) And he will put the plugs on that match the Stock Jonway plugs. (Tony is the Man) This is the KEY to the whole charging having a Regulator that will take what is thrown at it and hold voltage when it is warm. THIS IS THE ONE. .oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html3. 40 amp Relay. I dont have a link right now but this is a standard Relay used for running lights. Was like 4 bucks at O'Reily Autoparts. (Used to Replace that Damn Diode) 4. Lighting upgrades to reduce Current draw. LEDs Replaced all bulbs except for instrument panel lights. (Tail/Brake, Signals and Runner lights above the headlights). 5. HID Upgrade. Stock bulbs are 35 watt and if you drive at night are not worth a crap with them you have very limited visibility. HID are about 5 times as bright as Halogen but only draw 35 Watts of power. So it was an even Trade off. But if you want to run at night This is an upgrade that is Needed the only other Alternative is to put in Halogen bulbs bright enough to run at night yes. But they also Draw 55/60 Watts each. So you end up drawing more current on a system that Already Stock can not even handle the Stock lighting. IMO HID are the best way to go. If you are in a state that you can not legally go HID. Then maybe consider modifying your lights with Halogen One side aimed with a good Low Beam bulb and the other side Aimed with a good High Beam bulb. Then you are actually cutting back on over all current draw from 70 Watts (35x2) to 55 watts Low 60 Watts High. I think just the above would probably take care of most of the charging problems. I did go one step further and Will probably upgrade the wires that are running my Fan Circuit also. 6. Replaced wiring in the CHARGING CIRCUIT area of the wire harness with 12 guage wire. |
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 49
A+'s: 0
Joined: Mar 30, 2012 10:06:06 GMT -6
|
Post by ronscycle1 on May 17, 2012 19:21:47 GMT -6
still need help
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on May 18, 2012 5:01:23 GMT -6
Ron have you done the tests on the stator wires like in the link I sent you? Do you have 60Vac or better across all 3 wires? If so then again you've got a wiring problem or a bad or wrong R/R or a bad diode, that's all it can be.
You need to check the plugs on every connection, the pin connectors are famous for just having one go bad. We've asked for pictures and are giving you tests to do but you're not coming back with any answers other than it's not charging.
You also asked if anyone could be online to go through each test? I'll be here early in the morning Saturday 05/19 until about 9:00 a.m. after that I've got ball games. But we'll start with checking the yellow stator wires and go from there.
BTW have you checked the diode?
JR
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on May 18, 2012 5:05:32 GMT -6
Ok results today. Drove in to work this am running Hwy speeds all the way. 5000-5200 rpms. 57-60 mph. Fan came on about half way to work. Even with Fan on voltage was Steady all the way to work at 12.7 volts. .. Ok this was a positive but not the end of test as it was only 67 degrees this am. Big test is Ride home this after noon. 88 degrees with Heat index around 96. Plus I was bucking a head wind all the way. Ok Final Results 12.68 volts when I get home. I had Both headlights and I was able to Shutoff scooter and Start it.... Now this is a HUGE FIRST.......... I have never been able to do that since I bought my Scooter.. Ok on to the Break down of the Winning Combo 1. 7" Cooling Fan .siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb55" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb552. Regulator Rectifier 100% Worth Every Penny. The very bottom one (VRRPM3H) And he will put the plugs on that match the Stock Jonway plugs. (Tony is the Man) This is the KEY to the whole charging having a Regulator that will take what is thrown at it and hold voltage when it is warm. THIS IS THE ONE. .oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html3. 40 amp Relay. I dont have a link right now but this is a standard Relay used for running lights. Was like 4 bucks at O'Reily Autoparts. (Used to Replace that Damn Diode) 4. Lighting upgrades to reduce Current draw. LEDs Replaced all bulbs except for instrument panel lights. (Tail/Brake, Signals and Runner lights above the headlights). 5. HID Upgrade. Stock bulbs are 35 watt and if you drive at night are not worth a crap with them you have very limited visibility. HID are about 5 times as bright as Halogen but only draw 35 Watts of power. So it was an even Trade off. But if you want to run at night This is an upgrade that is Needed the only other Alternative is to put in Halogen bulbs bright enough to run at night yes. But they also Draw 55/60 Watts each. So you end up drawing more current on a system that Already Stock can not even handle the Stock lighting. IMO HID are the best way to go. If you are in a state that you can not legally go HID. Then maybe consider modifying your lights with Halogen One side aimed with a good Low Beam bulb and the other side Aimed with a good High Beam bulb. Then you are actually cutting back on over all current draw from 70 Watts (35x2) to 55 watts Low 60 Watts High. I think just the above would probably take care of most of the charging problems. I did go one step further and Will probably upgrade the wires that are running my Fan Circuit also. 6. Replaced wiring in the CHARGING CIRCUIT area of the wire harness with 12 guage wire. BTW Todd if you replace the instrument bulbs and the license plate light bulb you will gain even more; 4 instrument bulbs X 3W = 12W 1 license plate light bulb =5W Total = 17W = 1.41 amps It does add up!  JR |
|
|
|
Post by damin69 on May 18, 2012 7:41:31 GMT -6
Ok results today. Drove in to work this am running Hwy speeds all the way. 5000-5200 rpms. 57-60 mph. Fan came on about half way to work. Even with Fan on voltage was Steady all the way to work at 12.7 volts. .. Ok this was a positive but not the end of test as it was only 67 degrees this am. Big test is Ride home this after noon. 88 degrees with Heat index around 96. Plus I was bucking a head wind all the way. Ok Final Results 12.68 volts when I get home. I had Both headlights and I was able to Shutoff scooter and Start it.... Now this is a HUGE FIRST.......... I have never been able to do that since I bought my Scooter.. Ok on to the Break down of the Winning Combo 1. 7" Cooling Fan .siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb55" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.siliconeintakes.com/product_i....bb745cbd96ddb552. Regulator Rectifier 100% Worth Every Penny. The very bottom one (VRRPM3H) And he will put the plugs on that match the Stock Jonway plugs. (Tony is the Man) This is the KEY to the whole charging having a Regulator that will take what is thrown at it and hold voltage when it is warm. THIS IS THE ONE. .oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html3. 40 amp Relay. I dont have a link right now but this is a standard Relay used for running lights. Was like 4 bucks at O'Reily Autoparts. (Used to Replace that Damn Diode) 4. Lighting upgrades to reduce Current draw. LEDs Replaced all bulbs except for instrument panel lights. (Tail/Brake, Signals and Runner lights above the headlights). 5. HID Upgrade. Stock bulbs are 35 watt and if you drive at night are not worth a crap with them you have very limited visibility. HID are about 5 times as bright as Halogen but only draw 35 Watts of power. So it was an even Trade off. But if you want to run at night This is an upgrade that is Needed the only other Alternative is to put in Halogen bulbs bright enough to run at night yes. But they also Draw 55/60 Watts each. So you end up drawing more current on a system that Already Stock can not even handle the Stock lighting. IMO HID are the best way to go. If you are in a state that you can not legally go HID. Then maybe consider modifying your lights with Halogen One side aimed with a good Low Beam bulb and the other side Aimed with a good High Beam bulb. Then you are actually cutting back on over all current draw from 70 Watts (35x2) to 55 watts Low 60 Watts High. I think just the above would probably take care of most of the charging problems. I did go one step further and Will probably upgrade the wires that are running my Fan Circuit also. 6. Replaced wiring in the CHARGING CIRCUIT area of the wire harness with 12 guage wire. BTW Todd if you replace the instrument bulbs and the license plate light bulb you will gain even more; 4 instrument bulbs X 3W = 12W 1 license plate light bulb =5W Total = 17W = 1.41 amps It does add up! JR I must have forgot to mention that part. All of my bulbs on my scoot have been changed out to LEDs..... OOPS. |
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 152
A+'s: 0
Joined: Jul 20, 2011 17:53:15 GMT -6
|
Post by yoster on May 18, 2012 9:35:03 GMT -6
Hey Damin - are you still running that relay? I am, but thinking about ditching it. When I get off the scooter for a quick run into a drug store (for example) on a hot day.. come back out.. turn the key, lights and fan come on due to the relay (lets say it was hot and the fan was running when I shut it off.) With all that running, my scooter has a hard time cranking.. just not enough cranking amps in that little battery to support it all. I have a toggle switch I wired-up for those occations.. I turn it 'off' (which kills all lights, fan, charing, etc) giving max amps to the starter, then turn it back on. Once the scooter is running I have no charging issues at that point.
Have you experienced the same thing, or can you easily start it with fan and both lights on? I'm still running the stock fan, so if you CAN start it, maybe that's the key difference.
|
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 152
A+'s: 0
Joined: Jul 20, 2011 17:53:15 GMT -6
|
Post by yoster on May 18, 2012 11:05:49 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by damin69 on May 18, 2012 11:14:01 GMT -6
Hey Damin - are you still running that relay? I am, but thinking about ditching it. When I get off the scooter for a quick run into a drug store (for example) on a hot day.. come back out.. turn the key, lights and fan come on due to the relay (lets say it was hot and the fan was running when I shut it off.) With all that running, my scooter has a hard time cranking.. just not enough cranking amps in that little battery to support it all. I have a toggle switch I wired-up for those occations.. I turn it 'off' (which kills all lights, fan, charing, etc) giving max amps to the starter, then turn it back on. Once the scooter is running I have no charging issues at that point. Have you experienced the same thing, or can you easily start it with fan and both lights on? I'm still running the stock fan, so if you CAN start it, maybe that's the key difference. Yeap still running Have had no issues at all with it. I am still wanting to get a more KNOWN accurate temp gauge so that I know when I am running it if it is actually getting HOT or if the gauge is that far off. My guess is on the chino gauge being way off. |
|
Junior
Currently Offline
Posts: 152
A+'s: 0
Joined: Jul 20, 2011 17:53:15 GMT -6
|
Post by yoster on May 18, 2012 11:36:05 GMT -6
|
|
