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Post by dleonard on Jul 10, 2012 19:02:21 GMT -6
I have what is most likely a really dumb question. Is there such an animal as a service/repair manual for this scooter?
By the way the diagram link you have me is great. It looks like most wireing is the same color and I SEE the diode now!
Cruiser how long have you had your 2008 Jonway YY250T? Has it served you well for the most part. I love my 2008 this charging thing has just been a drag.
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Post by dleonard on Jul 10, 2012 18:44:03 GMT -6
Thanks guys!! Sounds like I have my work cut out for me over the next few days. I have to leave Sunday for a Career and Technical Education Teacher conference, I'll be gone a week so it will be awhile be fore I get back to you on the results. What real makes me feel stupid is I teach auto tech and maritime transportation and haven't been able to figure out a blasted scooter. I was about ready to pull my hair out and I can't afford to do that. I did find a really bad connection at the blue and green wires going to the stator area. If you wiggle the connector the engine shuts off. (not good)
I don't see the blocking diode in 2 of the diagrams I have, is it supposed to be a trade secret? Ha Ha!
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Post by dleonard on Jul 8, 2012 15:49:41 GMT -6
Thank you Cruiser and Jr for the welcome and new info.
#1 I did not run the RPM to 5k when testing the stator, all test were at idle.
#2 The red wire coming out of the R/R reads 14+ volts at idle but drops to 12.2 at 3000 rpm, with the cooling fan running.
the wire color of that wire changes at a connector about 6 inches from the R/R to brown. I have traced it to the fuse block as stated before.
#3 when the diode is plugged in I have appox. 13.4 volts on the yellow wire at idle with the cooling fan on. When I raised the rpm to 3000 the voltage dropped to 11.2v. The red wire to the diode reads appox. 12.5 at idle and at 3000 rpm with the fan running. (The battery showed 12.85 volts before starting.)
#4 unplugged the diode and putting in a good jumper wire (not the paper clip used before) I got 13.3 volts at idle with the fan running on both wires. Did not check at high rpm.
#5 at the fuse block (fan on) both the brown and yellow wires had 14.4 volts. At 3000 rpm they both dropped to 11.8 volts.
#6 I went to work and got my Fluke to check the diode for continuity with the beeper and got no beep just a very low ohms reading one way and open the other.
My questions are why the voltage drop at higher rpm, does the fused red wire going to the battery charge the battery, and do I have to cut open the harness to find splices and trace the wires. They have got the same wire colors going everywhere.
I just want to ride!!
By the way this is the Gulf Coast of Texas cooling fans on everything run all the time 12 months a year.
Thanks,
Daryl
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Post by dleonard on Jul 7, 2012 10:56:48 GMT -6
jr,
I have been following along ron's issue is kind of like mine.
I checked the diode with an ohmeter and got what I concider a defective diode reading (Infinate one way and 20 ohms the other). I jumped the connector but saw no voltage increase at the battery. When plugged in the readings are 14+ volts on the yellow wire and 12.68 v on the red wire. I also checked the voltage coming out at the red wire from the R/R and get 14+ volts. At the plug the red wire becomes brown and goes to the fuse block under the seat and comes out yellow. I have a 2008 jonway(Massimo) yy250t. Am I missing something here
Just for my own info when I check the mag output across the yellow wires I get 30 volts between each wire is that added to reach 60+ volts?
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