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Post by damin69 on May 18, 2012 14:15:41 GMT -6
I have actually been looking at the trailtech.net/vector.htmlYou can get a temp gauge from them for about $45. but since the speedo suck so bad on these I was thinking of going with the Vector for around $100 that has both speed and Temp on it. |
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Junior
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Post by yoster on May 18, 2012 15:08:03 GMT -6
Oooo I like that. Looks like for $20 more you can upgrade to the Stryker unit which includes a voltmeter. Nice!
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Post by JR on May 19, 2012 6:10:36 GMT -6
HONDA SCOOTERS WOULD NEVER HAVE THESE PROBLEMS Then GO BUY ONE!  |
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Post by JR on May 19, 2012 6:18:29 GMT -6
WILL I EVER GET THIS FIXED ? Not unless you do what you've been told? Everyone here has asked you questions, told you what to check, and yet you come on here this morning bitching about this scooter and how Honda wouldn't have these problems. I wouldn't have these problems with your scooter either, they are easy to fix if YOU listen and do what you're told. The electrical systems on these are simple and easy to fix and if you can't fix it then then take it to someone who can. I even told you I would be here as YOU asked for one on one how to test and then you come on here with your Honda BS! I'll let you in on a little secret, the charging system on your scooter is a copy of a HONDA. You come on here with the attitude, take it somewhere else. JR |
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Post by alleyoop on May 19, 2012 13:23:43 GMT -6
HONDA SCOOTERS WOULD NEVER HAVE THESE PROBLEMS HAHAHA, Yes they will sooner or later and you will pay to get them fixed, take one in and get the call on how much it will be to fix it. Now you will have to pay for what they already did which was nothing. Or a little carb adjustment taken 5 minutes and get charged for an hours labor or get lied to that it was this and that and now you have a big ass bill. Yep, if you feel that way Why are you on the forums that are NOT HONDA FORUMS, spamming or just being a DICK. Alleyoop |
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Post by ronscycle1 on May 26, 2012 14:42:59 GMT -6
ok with everything disconnected except regulator if i take the red wire out of the reg side of the coupler and put a dc voltage tester on the red and batt ground should nt i be getting like 13 or 14 volts ? but im not im only getting like 6 .4 , its a new regulator. is there a way to test it ?
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Post by JR on May 26, 2012 18:20:50 GMT -6
Yes Ron. You are testing in the right place but you're forgetting the voltage from the RED wire on the regulator feeds through the blocking diode then on to the battery. So if this didode has went bad in the open position you'll not get any voltage to the battery.
So here is how we can test both. Find the red wire off of the regulator and unplug it from the blocking diode. Use your volt meter and check it with the scooter running directly on the red wire from the regulator, if it reads 13 to 14VDC and even will climb with the engine revved then we know we're not getting the charge to the battery.
You can ohm the diode it should read full resistance or continuity one way but nothing the other way. You can also do this simple test, unplug the diode and put a wire jumper in the plug that came off of it. Don't be alarmed your headlights will immediately come on even with the key off. Start her up and check the voltage at the battery.
These two tests alone will tell us if it's the diode or a bad R/R provided the stator is putting out like it should.
To test the stator unplug the 3-plug with the yellows and check the voltage (AC) from yellow to yellow on all 3 combinations, should read 60Vac with it revved up.
Keep us informed we are here to help, also make sure all the connectors make good connection.
JR
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Post by ronscycle1 on May 28, 2012 1:03:22 GMT -6
ok the yellow wires off the stator are getting 26 ac volts at idle and about 85 at 5000 rpm.now with the diode diconnected , just checking the output from the regulator by diconnecting the red wire from the regulator side of the reg couplerand using a volt meter with red connected to the regulator red wire and green to batt ground , im only getting about six 6 volts
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Post by JR on May 28, 2012 6:20:39 GMT -6
Good news on the stator you're doing fine there, bad news on the regulator, it's bad. Do one thing for sure since you have it apart. Check the R/R and make sure the green wire from it is grounded good. Also make sure the negative battery cable is grounded to the frame good. Also I haven't asked but you do have the R/R bolted up to the frame and then doing the test right? The R/R must be bolted up to ground it. DON'T ever fire it up without it mounted first.
If you still have only 6 volts after checking all this then you need to get another R/R.
JR
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Post by ronscycle1 on May 29, 2012 13:42:18 GMT -6
checked for voltage at the regulator coupler , between balack and green wire good voltage 12 volts ,checked green wire and ground with ohm meter good contact where is a good place to get a rectifier and is there a certan kind it takes ?
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Post by damin69 on May 29, 2012 14:49:40 GMT -6
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Post by yoster on May 29, 2012 22:20:31 GMT -6
or "Matthew Dill"  This forum should get some type of kickback from OMP haha |
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Post by ronscycle1 on May 30, 2012 21:06:57 GMT -6
still not sure which regulator to get and where
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Post by JR on May 30, 2012 22:34:58 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 31, 2012 21:18:18 GMT -6
I purchased the model from Ebay and it lasted a very short time. I don't think it's designed to handle the full power requirements of the 250cc scoots. It might work fine for 150cc scoots (no radiator fan) with maybe one headlight. Also good for people doing the AC to DC conversions on 150cc scoots. The Powersport model looks identical to the OEM in size and is designated for the 250cc models only. The Oregon Motorcycle R/R that Todd and Matt are talking about will handle all the power requirements of the 250cc scoots with ease. This does not necessarily mean that you will get more output from your charging system. A good OEM R/R will allow all of the charging system output to be used by the scooter's electrical system. The problem with the OEM and replacement Chinese R/R's is that they are marginal in performance and are not consistent in output and are not reliable in general. The output of these systems is still marginal regardless of the R/R. A good reliable R/R takes out a known weak point in these systems. |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
