Junior
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Post by yoster on Oct 18, 2013 13:14:41 GMT -6
Ya it's been doing that since new. It comes on ridiculously early. I haven't stuck a thermometer in the coolant but I shot a temp-gun at the head one day when the gauge said it was 'overheating' and it was totally normal. Since then, just to be safe, I went to a 80/20 water/coolant mix (more water) and added some hyper-lube; now the gauge stays even lower, but the stupid fan still kicks on not too long after I take off down the road, even on a nice cool morning.
I'll check the coolant temp with a cooking thermometer and report back (I don't think my infrared temp gun will read liquids accurately.)
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Post by yoster on Oct 18, 2013 12:55:18 GMT -6
Whaddup scoot gang!
Quick question. I need to adjust my fan so it comes on much later - at the 1/2 point on the guage rather than 1/8.
I read a long time ago that there's a resister you can put in-line somewhere to make that happen. Can someone outline that process? Also, is there any wire close to the fuse-box area that this resistor can go (or just easier to access - so I don't have to pull all the stinkin' plastics off to do this) ?
Thanks
FYI - this is a 244cc scoot for those who don't know me.
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Post by yoster on Aug 26, 2013 11:31:53 GMT -6
Richard - do you have the 244cc or the 257cc engine?
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Post by yoster on Aug 23, 2013 19:18:51 GMT -6
Thanks for the info guys. Barnie I'd check out those tires but I don't think we run the same sizes between the 257 and 244? Can't remember, but I thought they were slightly different for some reason size-wise. I'll check out that website you mentioned though!
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Post by yoster on Aug 23, 2013 10:46:53 GMT -6
Hi all,
Hope you've all been well!
So my scooter is still scootin' along. Zero problems - other than some plastic around the handle bars crumbling due to me spilling some brake fluid on it (oops!)
But other than that, been pretty darn pleased with the reliability of it. Just ONE thing that has been driving me nutso.
When on the freeway, after a few miles, my hands start to hurt from the vibration (even with wearing riding gloves.) The ride in general just isn't very plush. So my question is, does replacing the stock tires with new ones make THAT much of a difference? Is it like, night and day? The stock tires still have a ton of life on them and I'm not one to replace something unless it needs replacing, so they have to REALLY make a difference if I'm going to bring myself to shell out money to replace tires that are still 'good.'
But.. if they're awesome.. I think I might just do it. Opinions are welcomed please!
Thanks,
matt
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Apr 26, 2013 9:28:28 GMT -6
On the subject of cooling, if you're planning to change the coolant during this process, I highly recommend you go to a 20/80 or 30/70 mix (antifreeze/water) and a portion of either hyperlube, water wetter, or other similar product. This is if you don't live in freezing climate.
I'll tell ya ever since I've done that, my scooter has ran much, much cooler. At first the difference wasn't huge but as I put more miles on it with that setup it got better (assuming due to the Hyperlube mixing in.) The hyperlube also contains all lubrication properties needed for your water pump and whatnot - you can technically run that with straight water and be fine in both the lube and anti-corrosion departments. Of course the larger portion of water helps a good deal as well. My area doesn't ever freeze so I can benefit from running much lower antifreeze ratios.
Anyway, I know your thread is about the switch, but figured I'd mention that since it's somewhat related.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Mar 18, 2013 17:14:59 GMT -6
Your voltages are exactly what mine were before changing to a higher quality R/R. Ultimately it wasn't enough to keep the battery charged and I'd have to put it on a battery maintainer every night. I tried 4-5 different Chinese replacements and they either had some issue or lasted a whopping 1-2 months before dying. Got frustrated and splurged for the more expensive R/R. Once I did that, that problem went away and has yet to come back.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Feb 26, 2013 14:17:01 GMT -6
So I've had this scooter for 4 years now I think? Still on original battery! Guess I got lucky.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Nov 15, 2012 18:10:37 GMT -6
Heck, 80mph indicated on my speedo is like 65mph actual, so I'm not surprised if people were passing you (especially if you were on the freeway.)
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Post by yoster on Nov 8, 2012 22:11:05 GMT -6
Since this will be stick I thought I'd chime in. I'm actually a head manager at a software company. If anyone needs PC help, just PM me. Been busy with the newborn and all, but I'll try and help out when I'm able. Sounds like we have others on here in the industry as well.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Nov 1, 2012 15:48:25 GMT -6
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Post by yoster on Aug 5, 2012 14:31:37 GMT -6
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Post by yoster on Jul 19, 2012 14:19:35 GMT -6
For the record, I run my HID's on the high-beam setting about 70% of the time.. and they're waayyyy brighter than the OEM bulbs. When I had OEM, they were always set to the high-beam setting.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Jul 19, 2012 9:24:36 GMT -6
Yep, it was me. Ultimately, no OEM rebuild kits are available. I contacted our preferred vendors here, but no dice. I found a seller offering high-quality aftermarket replacement seals and o-rings, but they only worked for the ATV master cylinders. He said that if I sent my old ones to him in the mail, he'd match mine up to his, and send me the correct ones (if he had them,) but I never got around to sending him my old set. I can give you his contact info if you'd like to explore that option. At the end of the day, I ordered a whole new system from this guy: .ebay.com/itm/Front-Hydraulic-Brake-Lever-Assembly-for-150cc-250cc-Gas-Scooters-Moped-GY6-Part-/180764762573?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a166b61cd&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .ebay.com/itm/Front-Hydraulic-Brake-Lever-Assembly-for-150cc-250cc-Gas-Scooters-Moped-GY6-Part-/180764762573?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a166b61cd&vxp=mtrThat's a front lever, but he sells the rear as well. Came with master cylinder, hose line, caliper and new brake pads. I simply disconnected the new master cylinder from the system, bolted it up to mine, bled it, and bingo. |
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Jul 18, 2012 14:31:17 GMT -6
Ok - And next question, if you don't mind me asking, about what do you weigh?
Regardless, the size you want is either 24x18 or 23x18. Either will work, but according to Honda, 24x18 is the OEM size, so that's what I personally went with. The 20g rollers I had before were 23x18 and they did fine, so like I said, don't worry about that too much. I'd say whichever's cheaper.
Now you just need to decide on a weight. If you're like me.. 220-235 depending on the season (lol), and occasionally ride 2-up, then 19g sliders would suit you well. Especially if you ever go up hills. If you're mostly 1-up, then I would (personally) recommend 20g or 21g. At the end of the day though, anywhere in the 19g-21g range will work just fine. If you're primarily interested in top-end, than I'd lean towards 21g. I don't recommend going any lighter than 19g.. you'll start losing top-end at that point.
Be sure to pick up an electric impact wrench (can get it for $40ish from harbor freight) and some threadlocker. Will come in handy when you change these out. Trust me, you don't want that variator nut coming off when you're going down the road (happened to me.) I have a lockwasher put on now as well, just for good measure.
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