Junior
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Post by yoster on Jun 8, 2012 8:21:52 GMT -6
What damin said. When you're looking for parts, don't search by brand name. Search by the model. That "MC" number is pretty universal across brand. Try it in the "MC-62-250" and "MC62-250" configurations. On these china scoots, they start with MC, followed by a 2-digit model code (in my case 54, in your case 62) followed by the engine classification. Here's a perfect example. These guys call it the "fire wing" but look at the manufacturer #... it's "MC-62" .scooterdynasty.com/260ccfirewing.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .scooterdynasty.com/260ccfirewing.aspxVOG 260 will get you many results too - it's a common name for that scooter. |
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Post by yoster on Jun 7, 2012 16:59:43 GMT -6
Hey hey, men of any age can start a thread about anything related to grillin' lol!
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Post by yoster on Jun 7, 2012 9:44:37 GMT -6
Man, reading this thread reminds me that at I really must be the youngest guy on the forum LOL. I don't think 29-year old guys would start threads about green beans and taters haha. Oh if my friends could see me now. It's alright, it's members like me who keep you guys young right?  |
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Post by yoster on Jun 6, 2012 17:18:42 GMT -6
I'd recommend adjusting idle using your idle screw before going to the F/A mixture. If the idle is simply high, F/A is an artificial fix which can throw things off. This could be the direct cause of it not starting (leaning it out will bring RPM's up.. once the enricher cuts out (when it warms up) it will go REALLY lean, causing non-start issues.)
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Post by yoster on Jun 6, 2012 10:27:59 GMT -6
Don't worry if they're out of business. This scooter is sold under a dozen other 'brand names' as well - same scooter across all of them.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Jun 6, 2012 10:25:27 GMT -6
Ya, I found it late last night on some random import site.
For the price though, might be worth checking out. Could probably talk him down to 6
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Junior
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Post by yoster on Jun 5, 2012 17:14:02 GMT -6
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Post by yoster on Jun 3, 2012 13:05:11 GMT -6
I'm more surprised that the ODOMETER lasted 21k LOLOL
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Post by yoster on Jun 2, 2012 17:49:44 GMT -6
Well today I installed 19g (24x18) dr pulley sliders.
Sadly, I'm not as impressed as I was hoping I'd be. They're smoother than the OKO 20g rollers I had, especially off the line.. feels more 'refined' and acceleration from 0-20 does feel better.. but that's about it. Really don't notice any change in actual acceleration (outside of the 'feel/smoothness' or top-end. Of course acceleration is way better than my OEM rollers but right now I'm just comparing against my 20g OKO's. And these sliders could very well be faster.. acceleration-wise.. i just don't have the data. I guess what I'm saying is, the "wow" factor going from 20g rollers to 19g sliders isn't the same 'wow' factor I got going from the stock 23g? rollers to 20g rollers. To be expected I guess.
So this has taught me one thing - the weight of the rollers/sliders themselves seem to make a far larger impact than the type. I will say though, my 20g rollers only had about 500 miles on them and were already showing signs of wear. So I suppose the sliders will have the durability advantage.
Anyway, for those interested, GPS'd top-speed was about 65.4mph, but it was hot out today.. 95 degrees. I'm 6'2", 230lbs. Oddly enough, my speedometer showed about 72mph... it's as if it's getting more accurate (it used to say 80mph @ 65mph) the more I ride LOL!
[edit] - Forgot to mention, I also bled my front brake. MAN, that stock stuff was NASTY. Dark, dingy, dirty, staaaaank! Brake feel has improved x10 - just like the rear after I did that.
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Post by yoster on May 31, 2012 23:19:17 GMT -6
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Post by yoster on May 31, 2012 8:28:47 GMT -6
I like that. Would that thread right into the hole of the existing temp sender unit?
My only hesitation is that Chinese writing all over it.. I'd question the accuracy sadly.
Linhai300 - for what it's worth, mine acts the same way. Stays around the 1/4 mark in stop-and-go traffic on days under 90 degrees. Over 90, extended runs of maybe 1-2 miles between stop signs (on 50mph roads), it will get up to about the half mark. Over 90, long, consistent 60mph runs (like on a highway or something,) it will start to creep to the 3/4 mark. I have the Honda clone engine though, which seems to have a weaker cooling system than the linhai.
Now I'm running 20g rollers of the smaller variety (23x18) - the scooter struggles to hit 60mph (gps'd - my OEM 23g rollers had higher top-end, but sluggish take-off). 19g sliders of the slightly larger variety (24x18 - some would say the 'correct' size), will be installed this week. My top speed will increase given the same RPM, which theoretically will allow my engine to more easily obtain a 60mph road speed (and will also increase my top-end.) Hoping this helps out with temps slightly during the higher-speed runs.
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Junior
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Post by yoster on May 30, 2012 8:43:37 GMT -6
Very very nice. I have to say though, I was diggin' the original paint color. When I first opened the thread I though that was the new paint job haha
What kind of paint did you say you used? That looks just like the factory shine.
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Post by yoster on May 29, 2012 22:20:31 GMT -6
or "Matthew Dill"  This forum should get some type of kickback from OMP haha |
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Post by yoster on May 29, 2012 8:46:16 GMT -6
Good stuff Damin - way to be resourceful! Terrilee - I've heard of some strange workout programs before.. but wow  Well whatever floats your boat |
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Post by yoster on May 28, 2012 17:23:50 GMT -6
So here's the deal, and the standard in the marine industry. I use marine as the comparison because the engines in boats and our scooters spend time in similar RPM ranges (not the physical number, but the constant aspec of it.. i.e.: no shifting.)
Hard or soft, what you DON'T want to do is spend time at a constant RPM. That's the WORST thing you could do. So, do not get on the scooter, and drive 10 miles every day at 4k rpm. You want to mix it up.
When the fam was involved more in boat sales and people would ask how to break in their new Four Winns, we'd tell them.. take the kids out tubing. Not skiing or wakebaording (unless you're teaching somone..aka.. they're going to fall) but tubing. The on, off, on, off is what you're looking for in RPM's. Main thing is let the engine warm up first.
More and more manufactures are going to this method as 'the' method.. the Marine industry already has. They'll cavrate to stay about 1k under max RPM, but they will also tell you that it's fine to 'nail it' (pull skiiers out,) just don't let it wind up real high for awhile. Now that's not entirely true today.. that was 10 years ago. More and more manufactures today, due to better engineering and design standards, feel NO break-in is necessary. I wouldn't go as far to recommend that with these China scoots though. And again, on off on off the throttle. When you go "on" don't be afraid to hit it hard.. you don't need to let it wind up to get on it.
For my break in, I rode around town first 200 miles in stop-and-go traffic, taking off quickly from stop signs and lights. After the 250, I did the same thing, only at higher speeds (40mph with quick bursts to 55, then back to 40.)
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