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Post by prodigit on Jul 28, 2012 13:07:16 GMT -6
Thank you for the advise! So there already was transmission oil in the gearbox, but I filled it up with another 13oz (400ml). So I have too much oil in there now! Problem is I can not see how much oil there's in there, only drain the oil inside, and refill it!
richardthescooter3, on your first picture, with me there's a hose on the top of the gearbox located about 1 or 2 inches to the left of that refill hole. Is this acting as an overfill protection? Meaning, if I'll start riding will it automatically dispel of the excess oil (to the ground), or will I have to drain the whole gearbox?
I only drove the bike for 2 minutes in my garden before the refill, and the gearbox was quite hot!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 23:48:00 GMT -6
So I already bothered my bike distributor for not including an installation manual with the bike, and now also for his seriously lacking maintenance manual, not even telling where or how to change the transmission and engine fluids!
Which do you think is the best fluid for:
1- The Engine (I filled it up with a generic brand 10W30) 2- Gearbox ( I used Valvoline 80W-90) 3- Brake fluid (I don't know which one to buy, but suspect I need a DOT4 fluid?)
Any corrections on the above? (I live in S florida, where the sun is always hot, if it makes any difference to the oil).
Also, should I use different oils for breaking in the bike, and later shift to different oils?
Third, the transmission oil of the BMS260 (with center spring system), is on the top of the gearbox. Most 50-150CC scooters have the oil plug on the side, so that when overfilling, the oil leaks out. I fear overfilling the gear oil on my bike, because the hole is on the top, not the side. There is what looks like an overflow on the top of the gearbox though (near to the back wheel), connected to a rubber hose.
I suspect it's an overflow, as it leads to nowhere (just a hose hanging behind the gearbox).
Anyone could give me some advise on how much oil to put in the gearbox? The mechanic told me out of the factory it should have sufficient oil, however I could easily add ~400mL of oil to it!
Now I fear I may have overfilled it. Should I worry?
thanks!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 23:00:20 GMT -6
Thanks for the vids man! So how's the BMS TBX 260 / VOG 260 do against the roketta 250B both speed, torque, and mpg wise?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 1:19:44 GMT -6
You could always buy a 10A breaker circuit, and install it on the red battery wire. Open the trunk to disable the breaker when parking the bike. It will also prevent thieves to try to break into the steeringwheel's key, as they would not expect there to be an interruption under the seat.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 1:10:43 GMT -6
Change the headlight bulbs to a higher wattage, for more light, and the rear bulbs with LEDs, to compensate the wattage.
LEDS assure you'd never have to change the back bulbs anymore. Front lights need to be directional, and most of the time the mirrors inside the headlight housing are adjusted for a specific size bulb; so it would be difficult to change headlights/beamers to LEDS; besides many people have trouble with the powerlevels of these leds. Turns out high power LEDS are needed of 4W or more; and hey usually burn out fast for some reason.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 1:07:04 GMT -6
you got to sit on it and feel what you like most. I like the grey one better, for looks; and it looks like it's missing a back storage bin, perhaps you could still find one for your bike!
The blue one has a back seat rest, which could be a real comfort, or, if you're a tall guy, could be a limitation. If my memory serves right, some bikes allow you to remove the back support of the driver though. My bike has the same back support as the grey bike; eventhough on mine (BMS 260) I can stretch my legs quite comfortably, and if I wanted to, push me halfway on the passenger's seat. If the backsupport of the blue bike is non removable, and you're tall like me (6'3"), you might be limited in space with your knees and the steering wheel.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 25, 2012 9:45:01 GMT -6
I don't understand why someone would make something as inefficient as that, to send lost power to ground..?? It does not make any sense at all,why they just don't equip it with a dynamo or alternator? At least under load it will be taxed, but when there's no load it'll be no more to the engine than a flywheel! So basically it's better to get inefficient LEDS, the type that consume lots of power, but give less light output; and try to find a way to harness the remaining energy (like build in a phone charger, and/or even a radio, or GPS system)...
Incandescent is such an old technology. I wonder why they did not equip the bike then with a smaller charging device, and LEDS. Having a smaller electric output should result in taxing the motor less, and could increase MPG; a smaller electric output by selecting a smaller generator. Running a generator-type of device in 'always on' mode, is is consuming quite some unnecessary fuel. Almost like driving through town in a car with the windows down,while the AC is on.
Perhaps I could change only the head or tail lights (tail light, I read too many issues with headlights focus that changes when changing the bulb to a different type), and try to compensate by installing additional lights (like LED strips (~2.5W per strip; I could install 12 strips under the bike, that makes up for ~30 watts for under the bike), and install in the glove compartment a USB charger/plug (usually consumes 0.5Watt no load, and 1~2.5W- 5W charging a cellphone or running a GPS system). Installing a radio would be very simple; but installing good quality speakers would not. So I doubt I want to install a radio.
Is there any law against installing white led strips under a bike (so that a white glow would appear from under the bike)?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 24, 2012 21:37:44 GMT -6
When breaking in the engine, most people recommend regular (non-synthetic) oil, as it has to be changed in 50-100 miles anyway, and synthetic oil costs more.
I understand that part.
But what kind of oil should I get; should I get lighter than regular oil, or heavier?
Some mechanics say SAE30, the usermanual says SAE10W40. It's made in mainland China. I live in Florida, with boiling hot sun all day, so I will go with the SAE10W40 under regular driving, but for the engine break in, is it perhaps advised to go with 30 or should I go with 40?
(also, the bike is watercooled, so it might not get as hot as an aircooled one).
And why should I get a lighter or heavier oil; what's the reason for selecting it?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 24, 2012 21:31:25 GMT -6
Happy? I can't wait for it to arrive and take it to the streets (after the break in period)
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Post by prodigit on Jul 24, 2012 18:51:56 GMT -6
I heard someone say that the generator of a scooter is at constant full load, and that changing the bulbs of a scooter to LEDS is a bad thing. It makes very little sense to me, but despite that I wanted to know if there is any truth to this?
In my opinion changing the bulbs to leds will increase MPG, as 2 headlights @ 25W, and 2 tail lights @ 25W (100W total) can easily be replaced by 4x4W bulbs (totaling 16-20W).
reducing power consumption by 5x could only be positive, right? Or am I wrong?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 24, 2012 17:44:26 GMT -6
Thank you for welcoming me, and thanks for the explanation! I'm really not very mechanical oriented, but read online that the Linhai motors are quite good!
It seems to me compared to other motors that mine is rather low in HP rating, could I be correct?
I only fear to get a lemon! Last car I had I drove for 3k miles before sending it to the cemetery, because I was running on normal 87 fuel instead of 92, and did not know that the pinging sound was bad!
I want this motor to last me a long time! I know about break in period, but for the rest I have very little knowledge of motors, and hope I can find some support on this site for this motor!
I ordered the newest 2012 (or 2011) version, with configurable center shock system (which supposedly is an upgraded version from the 2008 version), larger disks for the front break, and EFI. I thought it good to pay $1000 extra compared to the same model without, because I'm quite skinny and want a relaxed ride, not a stiff ride, and was just hoping that the extra $1000 would buy me minor comfort, better road stability at 50+MPH, and prevent many headaches by having better quality material. Though in looks, the difference is very little between the 2011 BMS TBX 260 EFI and the standard 2008 model which is $1000 cheaper (and goes for $1600).
You think I did a good buy, or wasted $1000 of my money, and that the difference in better parts would not really be noticeable?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2012 17:57:59 GMT -6
Hi,
What can you say about the motor on my bike? I bought a BMS TBX EFI 260 (260CC 4 stroke, 14hp) scooter, and wanted to know something about the longetivity and performance of my motor, as well as if it is a clone and of what?
I've called the company I bought it from , and they said I had a GY6 motor. I've found lots online on the GY6-150cc, but nothing on the 260CC version.
It seems the GY6 is a clone of a Linhai, which is a clone of a Honda (if I'm right).
I read on some sites the displacement is actually 257cc 70 x 68mm or something. Any other info you can give about this engine? Is it a good one? Breaks down often or has problems?
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