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Post by prodigit on Aug 16, 2012 0:12:40 GMT -6
Same with mine, a 260 EFI. I think it's normal? I do notice that every time you turn on the ignition, and turn on the engine cutoff switch (to turn on power) the fuel pump pumps fuel in the lines.. It could be that when just stopped, there's still fuel mixture remnant in the cylinders, and basically the motor gets too high fuel/oxygen ratio those first few motor rotations.
When the engine is off for a while, perhaps the fuel vaporizes somewhat; and for that the startup goes better.
Try starting right ater turning on ignition (not giving fuelpump time to pump fuel in the carb/efi system. That might help.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 14, 2012 20:49:41 GMT -6
Ok, M13 fitted. The ringing sound is gone, and the sharp is still a little remnant, most likely because I did not dare to destroy the nut, and probably did not tighten it enough.
Can't believe that superiorpowersports promises a PDI, forgets exhaust nuts, and engine oil, and transmission fluids! I'd call that no PDI done to the bike!
I also found some high temp locktite (the white one), but on the bottle it says it's made for things like motor bolts and nuts, and for radiators etc; not really for exhaust. Any recommendations on aftermarket nuts and locktite/glue for exhaust? I presume they installed the nuts with vinyl locking, which probably melted after the first run...
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gas prices
by: prodigit - Aug 13, 2012 20:19:09 GMT -6
Post by prodigit on Aug 13, 2012 20:19:09 GMT -6
For that purpose a lot of people buy 50cc scooters, 150cc to be a tad over them. 250cc is really luxury for a scooter, much like 1200cc is luxury for motorcycles.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 13, 2012 20:17:34 GMT -6
The rod is 8mm. Would it be M8, or M10?
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Post by prodigit on Aug 13, 2012 17:43:48 GMT -6
Just put 300 miles on it. issue with exhaust mentioned in another thread. As far as the GPS, I mounted the GPS holder onto the dashboard with silicone glue. That way I'll always be able to take the GPS out, while leaving the mount mounted on the dashboard. Perhaps less nice than your solution, but safer at fast traveling speeds.
So far I only used the GPS on battery (has about 4 hours of battery). I'll have to open the dashboard to actually find a 12 V wire, to connect to the circuitry of a cigarette lighter USB charger.
As far as LED strips, I've only found white ones, also need to open the dashboard to mount them. The switch on the handle would be nice if it wasn't a fake. Haven't been able to play around with it yet, but it currently has no function (yet).
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Post by prodigit on Aug 13, 2012 17:36:50 GMT -6
Ok, I went under the 'hood' and found the source of both the ringing sound and the sharper sound came from the exhaust. The exhaust is mounted with two nuts to the motor with an item like picture below. Much like the picture, but not identical. Both nuts are gone, and the item of the picture is ringing on the exhaust pipe. So I got to find the right bolts now.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 12, 2012 19:38:23 GMT -6
I'm going to check the muffler indeed. The valves are controlled hydraulically; they supposedly don't need any modification or check up for another 30k miles. I presume some of the nuts where not tightened very well, and sound is coming through the cracks as they loosen. Time to buy locktite (man, this bike has costed me lots of premium on materials and research hours)!
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Post by prodigit on Aug 12, 2012 15:36:57 GMT -6
Sorry, I have a BMS TXB 260 EFI.
Nothing is dragging, no friction anywhere, just the motor is starting to make more of a sound of 2 hammers slamming together!
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Post by prodigit on Aug 12, 2012 10:44:04 GMT -6
Okay, I know about the PDI, and never dared to open the bike.... The sales site said that all bikes had a PDI done to them before shipping. I knew this wasn't true, because both transmission and engine fluids where too low, but ignored the rest of the bike, thinking they might have done a good job.... Man, I think I was wrong!
I've done 300 miles now, and the bike vibrates, rings, and every time when I accelerate, the sound is annoyingly sharp. I think it might be the exhaust, but am not sure. Like before it was 'putting' very nice, with a sound bump around 1kHz. Now these sharp sounds (can't really explain, almost like running a motor without oil, or running without muffler) are so bright, that without a helmet, it hurts my ears to drive. All started when I did a 50 mile trip at max speed.
You think it could be the muffler? I never did PDI, and never tightened any bolts (they are just too many, and the wiring just drives me crazy, too many wires!!).
On top of that, I wouldn't even know where to begin in stripping the bike from it's plastic covers! I am the type of person who can put a bike together and always end up with a few screws after the mounting...
I presume some loose screws on the exhaust is the problem; but any other suggestions? (I know you're going to tell me to do a full PDI, but man I'm scared of that; at least like this I can drive my bike for however long I can drive it, but when I do the PDI, I might not be able to drive the bike at all anymore!)
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Post by prodigit on Aug 11, 2012 0:53:28 GMT -6
I suppose there's more to see than just adding a cylinder isn't there? I ask because if a scooter could have been made with twin cylinders, they would have done so long time ago...
It seems you mainly find twin cylinders on heavy cruisers, touring bikes, or sportsters, that need more than what a single cylinder can offer.
Perhaps a single cylinder would create too much heat, too much torque on the chassis when ignited, so the motor vibrates back too hard when the piston is no longer under load...
Then there's probably the added cost and complexity of a motor with more than one cylinder; another reason why they won't build multi cylinders on a small scooter, that meant to be affordable.
It's logical to say that a twin cylinder engine will have more torque and power than a similar single cylinder engine; and thus use up more gasoline. However, if a balance is found, eg: Comparing a single cylinder 150cc, with a dual 50cc (100cc), and both engines would perform about the same, what would their gas mileage be?
Basically, if their acceleration would be the same, shouldn't they have the same gas mileage too? Most surely the engine would run more smoothly, less noisy, smaller exhaust, and much more reliable too! (in case one spark plug would break, there's still a small cylinder to drive you home or to the nearest garage).
There are many benefits to dual cylinders.
I just don't know, if dual cylinder automatically means more gasoline usage. After all, you'd also have more power, better acceleration, and more smooth ride with 2 cylinders!
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Post by prodigit on Aug 10, 2012 4:19:33 GMT -6
How do 1 vs 2 cylinders usually measure up?
Gas mileage (MPG), speed, torque?
And does 1 x 500cc cylinder equal the power of 2 x 250cc, or more like 2 x 200?
I had a 2.4Liter 4 cylinder car, and a 2.4 liter 6 cylinder car, and the 6 cylinder car was much more powerful, but also consumed more gas! From the car's perspective, a 2 Liter, 6 cylinder would come close to a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder car.
Is this also so with 1 vs 2 cylinder on a bike?
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Post by prodigit on Aug 5, 2012 15:43:18 GMT -6
I'd say wind optimization; make sure you have the aerodynamic plastic plating in good order.
Also reduce the load on the alternator by putting a switch between the radiator fan. Turning it off when driving high speed.
Get rid of a wind shield, and duck forward when driving. Get rid of any passenger backrests, or back storage bin.
Use premium gasoline, it will make a small difference (93 octane on gas station)
Enlarge the air filter, if possible make it so, that air gets forced in the air filter by wind movement caused by driving.
Tires fully inflated Gasoline tank full (reduces drag on fuel pump).
Clean/replace filters (air/fuel/oil)
Perhaps put a slightly larger exhaust pipe; most of these bikes have an exhaust that is optimized for little sound, but have some back pressure in them, that does not allow the cylinders to get completely empty of their burned gasses. A bigger exhaust (with larger airflow) should improve bits.
Put SAE 10W30 in the motor, it gives a performance gain over 15W40.
That's about it
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Post by prodigit on Aug 3, 2012 12:43:30 GMT -6
Hi,
A friend of mine wants to buy a bobber scooter/motorcycle, because they're pretty affordable, and he likes how they look. However there aren't that many to choose from, and he wants one with the lowest possible price, that would still be a good scoot.
His preferences are reasonably simple: 1- A cheap, sub $1000 bobber, that is also 2- Reliable (most scoots are) 3- Reasonably maintenance free (except for brake pads and oil changes) 4- Goes 50MPH+ (he needs to use it to go to work, which means crossing a 50MPH bridge, in other words, he needs a 150cc or higher) 5- Has classic white wall tires. 6- Has to be new!
I've read a lot about mounting kits, where one can mount their own bobber, and saves money that way, but haven't really found one yet.
Aside from used ebay bobbers, the cheapest one I found was twice the price of his budget. Most results show up in Alibaba, but most of them he needs to buy a lot, and he does not want that. Plus, there's really no guarantee on receiving a good product on alibaba. Any idea where else he can start looking for one?
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Post by prodigit on Aug 3, 2012 6:01:19 GMT -6
Concerning the brake fluid, I've looked around in stores, and found only DOT4 and DOT5 fluids. You think they are interchangeable (meaning DOT5 fluid can go in DOT 3 rated braking systems)?
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Post by prodigit on Aug 3, 2012 5:53:43 GMT -6
No need to change it. After the break-in period you could clean it a bit, make sure the plug is not covered with black or white at the tip; but all those people saying they got such a better experience with 'platinum' sparkplugs, just ignore their comments. A spark is a spark, and it makes very little difference. I'd change the spark plug when it's bad. As long as the motor is running well, no need to change it, unless you want to spend more money into it. I've known cars that ran on their spark plugs for over 25 years, and only had a minor adjustment to the gap made. Those spark plugs where created in the '60's when tolerances wheren't what they are now...
That'd be my personal opinion, some others might disagree with me.
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