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Bms tbx 260
by: prodigit - Sept 26, 2012 17:17:08 GMT -6
Post by prodigit on Sept 26, 2012 17:17:08 GMT -6
As far as on gas, I have the EFI version, so my gas mileage might be a bit better, but I get around 80-85MPG from the internal odometer.
I know the speedometer is roughly ~10% off, so that'd make 72-77MPG in real life.
I just rode from Hialeah, to miami, to Fort Lauterdale and back to Hialeah (about an 80 mile trip with the detours), on just under half a tank! That was in the city though.
I suspect the direct injection should be able to get upto 70MPGs!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 26, 2012 17:11:05 GMT -6
Update on the brake!
I can't find a single scooter mechanic, in about a 25 mile radius that is willing to work on this bike!
I just noticed, that after a hard squeeze, the brake brakes normal for a while (meaning I can squeeze soft after a hard brake, and it will brake normal). When I drive on a stretch, the brake goes back to hard mode.
In other words, it's almost as if something goes loose inside, when I brake hard; only to tighten again a few tens of seconds later!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 24, 2012 16:35:42 GMT -6
Ok, which bikes does the fork fit into? The BMS/VOG 260 bikes too?
I know the Honda Rebel forks are very soft in suspension, and the suspension on the BMS TXB 260 is a tad too stiff for my taste.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 23, 2012 10:03:02 GMT -6
I just read, that the improvements they post on their website, are usually for 4 to 8 cylinder cars.
I can imagine they are way less on a single cylinder.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 22, 2012 0:52:50 GMT -6
Problem is I don't even get near to ABS brake pressure, and it just does not cut it.
Like, the rear brake can stop my bike in 6ft at a certain pressure from a certain speed, the front brake will need over 6-7x that distance at the same pressure.
When I opened the front brake fluid box, oil came pouring out, as if it was under pressure???
There's also not a single air bubble in the front, while the rear brake reservoir has a small air bubble behind the glass (so I can see the oil level).
I know next to nothing of brakes, and the last thing I want is trying to change brake pads, and end up losing all the oil or something...
As far as the ABS, it once came in handy. Back when the brake pads where still new, they worked a lot better, and I had to stop quite hard on a corner of a street. It just started raining, and my wheel locked up on the pedestrian crosswalk (the white painted lines) when I got over it.
The ABS kept my tire straight. I don't really want to get rid of it!
I never was able to tilt the rear wheel by applying the front brake, I thought that was only for racing bikes (mine is more like a touring/luxury scooter, so I can imagine rear weight to be a little higher than a sports bike).
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Post by prodigit on Sept 21, 2012 2:19:49 GMT -6
On these types of bikes, how's the front brake supposed to brake?
I have the feeling overall the front brake only does 10-20% of total braking, rear brake ~50-70%, engine braking the rest.
The rear brake brakes like normal, but I have to pull the front brake like a muckerfugger to actually enable the ABS.
Is that normal?
Like, I'd have to pull the lever so hard, that a mechanical cable brake would have been pulled over already, and nearly 80% of my total grip power (which is a lot, since I have ~90LBS of max grip power in each hand).
I have the feeling my front brake is working only 50%...
Wasn't always like that; though I have to say in the beginning, the front brake always braked less well than the rear, now it's like if I'd use only the front brake to come to a stop (like I would on a bike, or other cycle), it brakes worse than engine braking at lower speeds!
Anyone else has the same experience?
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Post by prodigit on Sept 20, 2012 23:25:47 GMT -6
Thanks for your opinion! Looks to me like it's more trouble than benefits.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 19, 2012 11:33:48 GMT -6
I've read about the sonic spark plugs, they seem to cause a sonic boom (caused by the spark), which should diffuse gasoline to a molecular level (according to them).
I can see where it could benefit direct injection, as the fuel might be injected in small drops.
However with fuel injection the fuel is nearly fog that's injected in the cylinder.
Would I benefit from a spark plug like that on my bike?
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Post by prodigit on Sept 15, 2012 23:30:32 GMT -6
Most likely the same as on my BMS. You should be able to reach the back of the bulb via the front wheel. Rotate and pull out the bulb. Otherwise, you'll need to de-mount the dashboard to get to there.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 14, 2012 23:50:45 GMT -6
had the same issue on my XB-700Li, and my BMS TBX 260 EFI. I generally put the best screws in the most important places, like the edges near the dashboard, and front.
The bad screws somewhere in the middle.
If it is too tight, switching the screws could help (what does not fit in one hole might fit in another). If not, try to unscrew the screw a bit, and use pliers to squeeze the rubber a bit
Also, if it does not fit (and feels like it's falling out), a bit of electrical tape (or duct tape) around the rubber could do miracles!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 10, 2012 14:48:58 GMT -6
with 10W30 engine oil, you notice a minor performance improvement, and possibly gas mileage improvement. But at the cost of engine life.
I put 10W40 in my TBX-260 EFI, it's running noticeably more stable, and increases life.
15W40 is manufacturer recommended oil, and I would put that in there, just that the shop was out of that oil that day.
If you really need a performance edge, like on the track, or have a friend with similar bike and do some drag racing, then get 10W30, but generally, if you prefer a long lasting engine, get 15W40.
For gear oil I use 80W90, but next time I might also use 85W140 or something...
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Bms tbx 260
by: prodigit - Sept 9, 2012 20:43:20 GMT -6
Post by prodigit on Sept 9, 2012 20:43:20 GMT -6
10-40 oil is for the engine. The transmission is fine with normal 80W-90 oil.
Depends on what you want from your motor.
Some people use 10W30, it gives them an edge in performance, and sometimes a better gas mileage, but wears out the engine more.
Others prefer 10W40, or 15W40 when you have direct injection. In case you have EFI, 15W40 might be better, as the injectors inject the fuel at a higher pressure than NA; so your gas mileage might even go up for using that fuel over 10-30.
Also, 10W40 to 15W40 makes the engine run smoother, less vibrations, longer engine and parts life.
If you have the BMS TBX260 the type of oil should be mentioned on the red sticker underneath the hole for filling the oil.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 2, 2012 10:34:14 GMT -6
most scoots have such hard suspension, that with or without weight it would make little difference, unless you're over 220LBS
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Post by prodigit on Aug 31, 2012 22:56:02 GMT -6
I remember when going for the annual checkup in Belgium, the cars have to go through headlight alignment. There's this tool that the mechanics have, with a lens that will show if the vehicle is according to specifications. Back in the days it's just popping the hood, and adjusting one adjustment screw, if the alignment was off.
I've never had to deal with it in Florida, because there is no annual check up.
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LED Lights
by: prodigit - Aug 30, 2012 14:33:54 GMT -6
Post by prodigit on Aug 30, 2012 14:33:54 GMT -6
It makes most sense for blinkers and brake and tail lights, to choose 3W LED lights. Don't get too high wattage, as they need cooling, and won't last very long!
4W is already enormous, and similar to 35-40W incandescent bulbs!
Head lights I personally would not modify, because you need to align them correctly, so that the beam will light your path, and not blind other drivers!
I've seen plenty of these mods, and honestly, bikes even with HIDs don't know shit of what they're doing!
They're thinking they're cool, by having these ultra bright lights, but they're really pissing off other drivers driving in front of them.
If they want bulbs like these, fine, but use them where they won't blind other people, like out on the fields, or on lonely roads!
But in the city, please respect other drivers, and keep attention on the beam!
Led lights are smaller than incandescent lights, for the same light output, and can easily burn people's eyes!
So far, there are no real good LED lights for head lights, unless you use flash light heads, that direct the beam to the floor.
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