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Post by gatekeeper on Feb 24, 2013 6:57:58 GMT -6
Lube
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 26, 2012 11:54:12 GMT -6
I have one of those Adlys and even though they have a 4 valve setup the adjustment procedure is the same as for the 2 valve gy6 engines. There are only two rocker arms riding on the cam lobes. Each rocker arm is forked and pushes two valves.
Here is a video that is good for all gy6 style engines.
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Hi
by: gatekeeper - Jul 10, 2012 5:34:20 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Jul 10, 2012 5:34:20 GMT -6
Over there when they say indicators they are usually referring to the turn signal lights I think.
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$12 Upgrade
by: gatekeeper - Jun 28, 2012 13:24:51 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Jun 28, 2012 13:24:51 GMT -6
I haven't posted much here, although I do read a lot, but I thought I would share this.
Roller weights. I've read a lot about them on the various forums but always kind of felt that something so small just couldn't make that much difference. Well I was wrong.
I had picked up my used 50cc last year. Sure it was fun to drive if not a bit of a dog, especially up hills. Got this one hill leaving town on the way home that I could only hit 10 to 15 MPH on. Top speed on the level was 35ish, depending on wind.
I got one of those tiny tach knock offs and saw that at best I was just hitting 6000RPM, no higher, ever. Bought a scale, pulled and weight the current weights. 6.5 grams. Figured I'd have to got down a ways to get the RPM's up into the power band so I ordered 4 gram rollers.
When they came I weighed them, 4.3 grams. In they went and down the road I go. Did it make a difference? You bet! Better acceleration. A variator that you can actually feel "variate". RPM's up to just a hair over 7100. Top level speed 41MPH. And the dreaded hill from town now at 21MPH. It's like riding a different scooter. $12 well spent.
I know, what about the cost of the tach and scale? Diagnostic tools. After all, I have three more scooters, and you can bet they won't be the last ones I own!
I pays to read! Thanks to all.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 16, 2012 5:15:57 GMT -6
As Alleyoop says, go .004 inch for the top (intake) valve and .005 inch for the bottom (exhaust) valve.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 12, 2012 5:07:28 GMT -6
If you pump the brake lever with the reservoir cap off, do it SLOWLY!! Otherwise you will spray fluid all over the place.  |
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 22, 2012 11:01:04 GMT -6
Pull your plug and check that it is sparking when grounded to the head. I read in another of your posts that you were going to set your valves to .002/.0015. If you did that is really on the tight side. Try .004 intake and .005 exhaust. If you are getting spark, try spraying a little gas or carb cleaner or WD40 in the vacuum nipple on the intake to see if that makes it pop when you crank it. Double check for any electrical connectors that may have been jarred loose during the carb change.
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tuperware
by: gatekeeper - Apr 21, 2012 23:08:01 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Apr 21, 2012 23:08:01 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 1, 2012 11:39:58 GMT -6
Looks like the standard setup. Should work just fine.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jan 9, 2012 5:28:58 GMT -6
On my Bali, with the Honda clone engine, (244 cc) the gas tank is under the seat. The radiator sits a ways back from the locking door on the tunnel and there appears to be plenty of space to add a compartment. I have also thought about adding a compartment but I am with Alley. What ever gets put in that space, consideration needs to be made to ensure good airflow to the radiator.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 18, 2011 11:42:49 GMT -6
Thanks gdoug12. Once it comes on the fan stays running until the engine is shut off. I am going to reverse the polarity on the fan first to see if that brings the temp down some. Hopefully it will and the fan will start cycling off and on as it should. If not, then I will pull the water pump cover and check the passages for gunk.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 18, 2011 1:47:08 GMT -6
Thanks Yoster and JR.  I will re-wire the fan when I get up in the morning. Hopefully that will make a difference on the temp reading. |
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 17, 2011 15:19:33 GMT -6
I am bringing this 2007 Bali 250 with the Honda clone engine back to life after being neglected by it's PO. I've got it running good although it the temp gauge indicates that it runs hot. It will run up to the 3/4 mark when the ambient temperature is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The PO says it only started running this hot this year so he changed the coolant. I am going to drain and refill the coolant in the next couple of days as per posted instructions.
My question concerns the radiator fan. The radiator is mounted in front of the engine with the fan on the back side of the radiator. When the fan runs, it pushes air forward thru the radiator. Is this as designed? It would make more sense to me if it pulled cooler air from front to rear than to push warmer air from the engine forward. The wiring looks stock and does not appear to have been messed with. The gas tank is mounted behind the seat so there is nothing but empty space in front of the radiator.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 21, 2011 4:38:58 GMT -6
Thanks Alley! I'm considering this one as my "class" project.  |
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 21, 2011 4:36:00 GMT -6
The Russians will take care of that for us for the time being.
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