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Post by sprocket on Jul 29, 2011 10:59:47 GMT -6
Here is a list of GY6 engine codes
BN BenNeng (Zhangneng Industry Group)
BZ Zhejaing Huangyan Benzhou Group
CF CFMoto
CK Changzhou Kymco
DY Jaingmen Dayang
FT,FXD Guangzhou FOSTI
HJ,HS Jaingmen Dachangjiang Group (Haojue Motor) ; HS = Haojue Suzuki
HM,MT Shanghai Meitian
HN,QJ Qianjiang Group
JH,JL Chongqing Jailing ; JH = Jailing Honda
JS Chongqing Jianshe
LF Chongqing Lifan
LH Jiangsu Linhai
LX Chongqing Loncin
QM Jinan Qingqi
SDH Sundiro Honda
XS Xiaxing SYM
YG Chongqing Yingang
YX Taizhou Wangye
YY Taizhou Benzhou/Jonway
ZF Zhufeng Motor
ZN Taizhou Zhongneng
ZS Chongqing Zongshen
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Post by sprocket on Jul 29, 2011 10:53:02 GMT -6
A common code has a 'P' after the one.. like LF1'P'57QMJ... the P is a taller head on the engine. The cam chain is longer, the valves are larger, the cam is more aggressive and the ports are larger... Th 'P' engines are able to develop about 1.2 HP more than a standard engine Most of the engines from major manufacturers are 'P' type now... Attachments:
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Post by sprocket on Jul 28, 2011 19:03:34 GMT -6
Not sure...I buy engines in Canada and they are Lifan from MBE
Alway ask for the engine number like - LF 1P57QMJ - before you buy.
The first two initials are the engine manufacturer.. there are databases you can search for more information.
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Post by sprocket on Jul 28, 2011 17:06:33 GMT -6
Neat ...I use a a fuel filter, same idea
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Post by sprocket on Jul 28, 2011 16:59:24 GMT -6
I would never buy an engine that is 'no-name'... there are just too many ma & pa
engine builders in China and you have no idea what you are getting...
If it says Znen or Lifan or Linhai you stand a better chance of some quality.
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Post by sprocket on Jul 28, 2011 11:23:39 GMT -6
@ Bong Need to be careful of those chrome intakes... they can hold the carb on an angle and the jets come out of the gas... They can be adapted by changing the connector to the carb.. just make certain you carb is level... doug in San Diego Either UNI or K&N ...just make certain you oil them.. Some UNIs have a 12 degree elbow to help get around frame members... |
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Post by sprocket on Jul 27, 2011 14:31:05 GMT -6
This is better file format Attachments:
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Post by sprocket on Jul 27, 2011 14:27:36 GMT -6
If you remove the air box you must brace the front of the carb where the filter goes. Sooner or later your intake elbow will look like this and leak... Really hard to see when it is on the scooter... What cause this? The throttle cable! It pulls up on the carburator over and over again, cause it to flex and crack in time. The good news the manifolds are easy to repair with red silicone if you work it into the cracks and let it set.. but they will re-crack again Attachments:
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Stranded
by: sprocket - Jul 26, 2011 14:39:32 GMT -6
Post by sprocket on Jul 26, 2011 14:39:32 GMT -6
Might be a cracked intake elbow sucking air or the plastic insulator between the engine and the intake elbow...if it doesn't idle it you can't check it with spray water.. so you have to get in there
and see what gives...
They can often be repaired with red high temperature silicone .. I had one go like that some years ago and it is still running with a patch
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Post by sprocket on Jul 25, 2011 18:26:34 GMT -6
I would go 4 valve..cast iron... if you can find one...... there is more meat left in the head... some of those custom ports jobs leave something to be desired IMHO. Not saying that scrappy's are like that but some I have seen have been are fairly poor quality. I think with a 59 or larger a 30mm would be great...but I would go for EFI, if you can understand how to program the ECU in chinese! (actually it is in English now) How about a turbo? I have bought from these guys and never had a problem... in Canada at least. .chinese-parts-canada.com/turbocharger_fuel_injection.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .chinese-parts-canada.com/turbocharger_fuel_injection.htmlI think the weak point on these engines is the open cage crank bearings and the connecting rod bearing... perhaps the stroker kits have a better c-rod bearing I don't know... The options are virtually endless... |
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Post by sprocket on Jul 25, 2011 10:43:57 GMT -6
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Post by sprocket on Jul 24, 2011 13:36:53 GMT -6
Kinda like those movies where they need to cut a wire to disarm a bomb!!!! Red wire or blue wire?
Good job guys...!!!
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Post by sprocket on Jul 24, 2011 13:32:09 GMT -6
mapbike.. oil that UNI.. I keep seeing people running them dry and they wonder why they need a ring job every 1500-2000 miles... The rule of thumb I have used for years is... go up 2 jet sizes for a free flow filter and 2 jet sizes for a free flow exhaust. BUT Thing have changed. If your stock filter is foam, you likely don't need to go up in size for the UNI My experience is it is trial and error. If you get the carb dialled in you may gain about 3-5 MPH at WOT, but often I have found that the WOT will in fact be less than stock... You will probably have better results tuning the CVT and shifting the power curve of the engine. These engines all seem to have a 'sweat spot' usually at about 85% WOT and you can shift this somewhat until you hit the CDI rev limiter... But unfortunately anything you do to the CVT will impact either the top end or the take-off... the trick is to find a happy medium you like... But your gains will not be great... there is no replacement for displacement...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 23, 2011 17:26:07 GMT -6
Are you certain it was a ground wire and not the kill switch wire? It actually is a grounded wire to stop the engine... black and white one?
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Post by sprocket on Jul 23, 2011 15:51:57 GMT -6
Gee... glad you are OK...John
bloody cagers!
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