Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 23, 2011 10:58:30 GMT -6
It could be the rings are not in the right order OR the gaps are not staggered correctly. People say there is no difference in the two top rings , but there is...the second ring is slightly tapered and the wide tapered edge must be down. This is REALLY hard to see and the only way to tell is to use a micrometer... In some ring sets the top rings are marked with a T or a '.' (dot) Getting the stagger wrong or the rings in the wrong sequence on these engines and they won't last 1500 miles... Also it is imperative that the cylinder walls be honed PROPERLY at an automotive machine shop. These hand held drill hones are a joke! Attachments:
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 22, 2011 18:22:09 GMT -6
>>>shipping insurance and a Pay-pal account if things go wrong it can be resolved
Not on engines...PayPal has been reamed 'a new one' over some of TMS engine issues and
they simply say that their policies do not cover automotive parts. Lots of very unhappy
people a couple of years ago...perhaps it has changed now.. I don't know...
You need to read the PayPal policies before you buy...
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 22, 2011 18:08:24 GMT -6
FYI.. a fully charged battery with all good cells should read 12.6 volts with no load...12 volts on a scooter is OK, but 8.5 volts is just marginal for starting...
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 22, 2011 18:02:03 GMT -6
Much needed JR... great idea!
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Post by sprocket on Jul 22, 2011 18:00:30 GMT -6
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Post by sprocket on Jul 22, 2011 17:51:04 GMT -6
Hope that helmet is DOT approved! It will say so on the outside at the back...if it doesn't, it offers no certified protection.
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 19, 2011 15:22:52 GMT -6
Did you replace the crank bearings when you did the crank?
You should check the cam chain guides, particularly the top one.. This can wear through
and make a sound... best to remove the chain tensioner and have a look down the hole at the guide...
Often the guide is broken off and the tensioner is riding on the chain...
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 18, 2011 18:26:06 GMT -6
The whirring is likely a main crank bearing...but it could be the cam chain as well, it might be worn or the tensioner is no good..
The compression check is best done a hot engine...
95psi is not good... I usually rebuild at 125 psi...
You should get a puff of air from the valve cover...
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 18, 2011 15:23:20 GMT -6
Counterfeit rollers...you just never know!
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Post by sprocket on Jul 18, 2011 12:32:44 GMT -6
Get some tight zip ties on those vacuum lines... or they will loosen again...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 17, 2011 16:20:56 GMT -6
Bummer...probably good to start with new...
I would shop around though...
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Junior
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Post by sprocket on Jul 17, 2011 13:18:17 GMT -6
Make certain to oil the UNI!!! It is the oil that filters not the foam....
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Post by sprocket on Jul 17, 2011 13:16:26 GMT -6
>>>Has anyone had good or bad experiences with them?
Need to check around the internet...there were problems with engines not being marked correctly...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 16, 2011 17:09:44 GMT -6
Leave it...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 15, 2011 10:47:03 GMT -6
I would be looking at either the ignition switch connections or the green ground wires that come from the dash...all the dash lights are joined to a common ground and this connection is usually done with acid core plumbers solder and the copper wires corrode and break... look for this connection first.. 10 green wired going to one green wire
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