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Post by nalrac on Jul 11, 2011 20:02:15 GMT -6
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Post by nalrac on Jul 14, 2011 5:41:31 GMT -6
I've posted this on "another forum" and come to the conclusion that it may actually be a bad headlight switch. JR, do you know if the headlight switch on the MC-13-150 controls the tail light too?
Here's my post from the other forum:
I noticed that my tail light wasn't working either. My brake light (front) and turn signals are fine. This morning I started her up and the headlights (high and low) and tail light were working great. By the time I got to the end of my driveway they were off again. This time they didn't flicker like before. It was like flipping a switch...
Could it be my switch is bad? Would this affect my tail light too?
Thanks!
- Adam
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Post by JR on Jul 14, 2011 9:04:47 GMT -6
Adam if you've got 16 volts then money says it's a bad connection or loose wire, the flickering is almost a dead giv-away. Yes it could be the light switch and since your lights aren't working then the charging voltage will be higher.
Now I don't like the "oh let's start buying parts and throwing at it" thing and even if it is a bad switch then looking for or eliminating the "cost nothing" things need to be doen first.
Now another giv-away to this bad connection or wire is the fact that both your tail lights and head lights are off and the dimmer switch has nothing to do with the tail lights as they are tied together and run off of the same circuit as the head/instrument lights.
Now the switch you are talking about is what the Chinese call the passing light and it brightens slightly the head lights when pushed the theory is one will see the brighter light if you are passing.
It feeds directly off of the battery with the key on and when pressed adds a little more voltage to the high beam to brighten so if your headlights are off to a bad wire then it will send voltage high beams.
It's possible that the R/R can charge the battery and the other side go bad that feeds the lights but very unlikely most of the time when a R/R goes bad it's bad period.
Time to get the plastic off and find the plug with the yellow wire that feeds the head/tail/instrument lights, bet you've got a bad wire or connection. When you get it open if you don't see something obvious then start it and then moved some wires around especially at the plug ins and she may tell on herself.
JR
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Post by nalrac on Jul 14, 2011 9:44:02 GMT -6
Hey JR,
Thanks for the reply. Turns out my gauge on the dash only showed 16 for a moment. However, it's really putting out around 14 consistently at half or WOT.
So, to make sure I'm clear; the tail light isn't tied into the switch at all so that's a pretty dead giveaway that it's not the switch? The fact that when the head lights go out the tail does too indicates a bad connector somewhere. Right?
Sorry if I sound like I'm parroting you but I just want to make sure that I understand. I'll go home this evening and spend some quality time digging under the plastic.
Thanks!
Adam
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Post by nalrac on Jul 14, 2011 15:08:14 GMT -6
Also, you mentioned that I should , "get the plastic off and find the plug with the yellow wire that feeds the head/tail/instrument lights". Where is this on the scooter on an MC-13-150? Is it behind the plastic where the headlights are mounted?
Thanks!
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Post by JR on Jul 14, 2011 15:08:44 GMT -6
Yep when both are dead it's just about certain a bad wire and the 14 volts is just right. No the tail lights do not go through the switch.
JR
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Post by nalrac on Jul 14, 2011 15:44:58 GMT -6
Thanks, JR!
From my post above (not sure if you saw): Also, you mentioned that I should , "get the plastic off and find the plug with the yellow wire that feeds the head/tail/instrument lights". Where is this on the scooter on an MC-13-150? Is it behind the plastic where the headlights are mounted?
Thanks!
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Post by JR on Jul 14, 2011 18:23:35 GMT -6
OK here is a Bali wiring diagram and it's one that I drew myself and has been copied throught out. It's accurate and correct wire for wire. JR
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Post by nalrac on Jul 15, 2011 5:03:53 GMT -6
JR, First...you're amazing. That's a masterpiece Although, for some reason it came through micro-sized in your post so I can't actually read it. So, here's an update: Last night I went home and took off the plastic on the right side and checked the connections. I unplugged and replugged every connector there just to be sure of a solid connection. I found the wires and connector leading to the tail lights (the one with the yellow wire) and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. The ground was connected and seemed like in was in perfect shape. I manipulated/squeezed/wiggled the entire bundle of wires that led up the frame to see if I could get a reaction from the light. After than was unsuccessful I took the front plastic off and looked at the connection there. Once again, everything looked like it was in good shape. I wiggled and reset the connections there with no change. I then went to the handle bars and, once again, noticed nothing. It looks like I'm at a total loss here. How can I test this more conclusively. What's the best way to narrow it down. Can I use a multimeter to test connections? If so, which ones? Thanks for all your help! - Adam PS - The best thing that came out of this adventure was that I found a reason my scoot started running so rough. A hose was disconnected from the carb. Purrs like a kitten again.
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Post by JR on Jul 15, 2011 6:25:25 GMT -6
I'll put tha diagram on a full size PDF where you can print it out. Now these plugs are famous for having again very bad crimp blade connectors and I have actually removed them from the plug one at a time and soldiered them good and put them back in.
One can take a tiny screwdriver and insert it from the end on the side with a small slot and can unlock them fix them and then bend the locking tab back out and re-lock them into place.
Yes an ohm meter will be your friend as you can ohm the headlight wire which also may turn into a brown wire color at some points in the harness.
Next step is to get the meter and ohm the lighting circuit from the dimmer switch to the tail lights to see if it has proper resistance,again you may have to take the wires out of the spiral plastic wrap and especially trace them where they join together.
A sudden loss of lights is almost a certainity of a bad wire or connection. Also with the meter you can check the voltage off of the yellow wire that the lights feeds off of with the scooter running.
Oh one other thing if you find no bad wire check the tail/brake light sockets where the bulbs plug into, it's happened a time or two that the bulb has messed up in the socket and shorted out the lights.
JR
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Post by nalrac on Jul 15, 2011 7:45:39 GMT -6
Thanks JR! A PDF would certainly be helpful.
I will take you recommendation and test the connectors with the ohm meter. What should the resistance be between the dimmer and tail light?
I also noticed last night that there are smaller bulbs in the headlight assembly that are burning very dimly. I'm not sure if this is relevant at all.
BTW - I took the bulbs out of their holder in the front after removing the plastic so I'm pretty sure there's no short there. However, I haven't removed the tail lights.
Thanks!
- Adam
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Post by JR on Jul 15, 2011 8:17:04 GMT -6
Adam they are the little side running lights and are on the same circuit when you get that volt meter let's test the voltage on the yellow wire with the scooter running to be sure we're putting out voltage to the lights. But again this points to a bad wire. Try this one should be able to enlarge it and print too, have lots of diagrams just another thing to get in the files as I have time. This is a PDF file and may take some time to open depending on your computer speed and may not appear until fully open, please be patient. Some are very large files.
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Post by nalrac on Jul 15, 2011 9:08:18 GMT -6
Is there any chance this could be stator related at all?
Also - the file is still a low res version. Looks like the document is over optimized. The labels aren't legible at all. Otherwise, this looks to be an extremely valuable resource!!
Thanks!
- Adam
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Post by sprocket on Jul 15, 2011 10:47:03 GMT -6
I would be looking at either the ignition switch connections or the green ground wires that come from the dash...all the dash lights are joined to a common ground and this connection is usually done with acid core plumbers solder and the copper wires corrode and break... look for this connection first.. 10 green wired going to one green wire
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Post by nalrac on Jul 15, 2011 12:01:16 GMT -6
Sprocket, GREAT info! I'll do that as soon as I get home
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