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Post by bobf on Nov 8, 2015 19:36:16 GMT -6
Did get new intake manifold attached to the engine and then installed the carb again. Could barely get the air tube installed poorly. Tried to run the engine but it ran lousy. I just could not get the air tube installed. So I looked up a new one for about $12 and ordered it. The measurement on my old one was below the spec and the flexible material had pretty much hardened. Maybe by Tuesday I will have my new one.
Browsed the web today and found a place to download a Honda manual for the engine in my machine. For $10 I downloaded it and have read some and printed what I thought would be helpful. My engine runs erratic and backfires. I saw in a couple help items that back firing can be part of the air system leaking. So maybe I am on the right path again. Another problem might be in my electrical timing system. Sounds like more parts if so. I will continue on the mechanical side first.
They also tell of how to find Top Dead Center. I looked at my engine and sure enough where they said to look I finally found the access hole, with a shiny screw out plug in it. It means I must take the outer drive cover off to be able to turn the engine till the marks are aligned.
When that happens I will set the valves with the engine cold. Set the valves and mark the curved part of the adjuster thing where it should be. I have tried the engine running method but poor luck as the tapping is hard for me to hear and the screws just keep spinning. So I would attempt to adjust then shut down, try to hold the arm in position then tighten the screws. Just a poor thing for me to do and be accurate at all. It seems like a three handed job
At least now with the book I feel I have an advantage to getting the thing running again.
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10 Nov just got an email today saying the part shipped. Possibly delivered 17 Nov.
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Post by bobf on Nov 8, 2015 8:20:35 GMT -6
Thanks again ellpee. I have never used either source before, but worth a try at least. I might also try a local newspaper add for a week too.
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Post by bobf on Nov 7, 2015 7:31:21 GMT -6
Thanks ellpee. Will give that a consideration when ready to sell. Would like to get it to run if I can, then get gone.
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Post by bobf on Nov 6, 2015 9:17:57 GMT -6
ellpee, how did you manage to sell your scooter? I plan to do the same with mine, whether running or not. Still working to fix that idle and other things. Then will know if running or not is the end for me.
Are you now feeling much better physically?
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Post by bobf on Nov 4, 2015 9:23:02 GMT -6
Thanks ellpee, have a good day. I think we should give this thread back to the originator, exrallydave.
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Post by bobf on Nov 3, 2015 19:17:58 GMT -6
ellpee, are you from Toledo? I was about 50 miles east of Toledo.
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Post by bobf on Nov 3, 2015 14:08:23 GMT -6
Well, here in south Arizona, winter becomes the better riding season for me. I just don't do well after we reach 100 and by 110 and up, I am frazzled just getting into my air conditioned car in the garage.
One of the reasons I left northern Ohio many years back was the nasty cold and windy snow filled winter days. I still go back to visit but only in late August, September, and early October. Halloween is just the beginning of winter for sure.
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Post by bobf on Nov 1, 2015 16:25:40 GMT -6
No responses but for the price, it is much cheaper than a valve job. So I ordered one today. Maybe a week and then I can report on the activity with the new 'intake manifold'. Sure hoping for some good results.
Edit to add: Monday 2 Nov, I received a email saying my package had been sent. Good start.
Edit to add: Wednesday 4 Nov. I received my new part in the US mail.
May have time to work on the scoot Thurs or Fri. Will report my success or failure when done.
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Post by bobf on Oct 31, 2015 15:53:34 GMT -6
Any one hear of this to be my solution? Could be as I changed carbs due to uneven running. Now back to my original carb but still not good running. I don't know the measurements on my scoot, have not had time to check out this part. It does not look the same as on my scoot. More wondering if this could be part of my problems. I have seen this part on other parts forums but more like what I saw on my scoot. Just not sure what to do so far. It may be interchangeable but won't know if I don't tear my scoot back down again, or at least take out the carb. Taking out is easy but putting it back in can be a big problem. .scrappydogscooters.com/CF250_Water_cooled_parts.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .scrappydogscooters.com/CF250_Water_cooled_parts.htmlCF250 & Honda Helix intake manifold Quality replacement intake manifold to solve that pesky problem of engine stalling and erratic running. Better than stock for an even better price. $9.95 |
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Post by bobf on Oct 31, 2015 9:17:42 GMT -6
Happy Halloween!
Seems to be pretty light on attendance recently.
Did the front panels yesterday and now just have the rear panels to do. Still unsure of what is wrong with the engine so will not put the rear covers on yet. I may see if I can mount the seat and see if I can actually ride it with the balky engine. If so I might just find a dealer and ride it to him to have him listen to it and help with a decision.
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Post by bobf on Oct 28, 2015 19:12:32 GMT -6
OK, checked the air system today and found what I thought was tight to be loose. So I redid the entire air system again today and now have a real tight air system. So I ran it. It started right off at a bit high idle. Sort of as expected and then it slowed down as expected. Then it decided to race up to much higher idle speeds and then slower then higher then slower and finally it quite. Restarted and again it seemed to race and slow. Reset the rear adjust from just ahead of the mark more to the rear of the mark. Then it would not start. Then I put it just in the middle of the marker. It started and I thought maybe this is it. It ran briefly at a good idle but then started the surging again. Now just don't know what but a valve job. I rechecked the air system and it is still solid and the joints are tight.
Back to replacing the plastics. Finished with the floor panel and tomorrow will start on the front panels. They have about a half inch difference lower from the front panel bolt holes to the higher welded frame threaded position. So I have to find what is keeping the front panels down so much.
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Post by bobf on Oct 28, 2015 8:53:17 GMT -6
Hi ellpee, your list is pretty much covered in my installed air box, horn, to carb. Real hard to tell if perfect as you can only barely see the installed parts. They do enter the openings and I tighten the clamps. That is one of the toughest jobs to do on my scoot. A hold down screw on the horn is near impossible to do as it is down below the cable holding bracket. Pretty impossible thing to do but it is necessary as without that screw there is nothing holding things together.
Now both carbs had the same problem so I don't think they are both leaking the same. In the engine, I could only tell if I tore it apart and put new gaskets in. Can not see the rubber unit that joins the carb to the engine. I do have that clamp tightened. One more check over the mounting but that is about it. Heading for valve job as I see it.
I have seen posts on other forums that just point to valve jobs. So now learning more as I read more. I did find one that has a film of doing a valve job. But my PC now does not show those youtube films. Not sure why that quite and have not yet found the way to correct it. The films run but only sound and no video. Stop the film and the sound ends but a view of the video appears then. Pretty sad and frustrating. So I am also working on my PC while wanting my scoot to run.
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Post by bobf on Oct 28, 2015 7:01:44 GMT -6
Cyborg, what do you mean by intake tract? I just described putting on the air ducts and air cleaner. What more is there?
I put the mileage just 3 or 4 posts up. Approx 250 miles. Unfortunately this machine has been a long term problem since I bought it. It has spent many weeks with the covers off and not running the streets. Right now I am in the process of putting in the floor boards and closing the front area. I am keeping he rear covers off till I get the engine running or the junk man takes it away.
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Post by bobf on Oct 27, 2015 19:31:26 GMT -6
OK, have finally put the old carb back on and put the air cleaner and tube from air cleaner to carb on again.
Result was that the engine started right off but then went into a rpm race and surged up and down for a short time then dropped off and died. Really no different that the old carb. It was also back firing all along while it was running.
Now how about a valve job. Is that a big job to get done. How much is it to take off the head and carry it to a shop for repairs. I can order all the parts for about $60 and take them to the repair shop. I could also order a gasket kit.
Any good old engine types around to offer a hint or two? I could probably do the valve change myself but if the valve seats are needing refaced, I definitely could not do that and not sure about spring compression things either. But taking the head off seems to be something I could do, if that is the right thing for me to do for a valve job. Really don't know as I still have no idea where TDC is on this engine. So a tear down would really mess me up pretty badly.
I have some reading to do and also hope some might appear with comments.
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Post by bobf on Oct 26, 2015 14:10:42 GMT -6
Thanks ellpee. I have been looking for scooter shops here in Casa Grande but none show up on the web. Maybe if I look for a Honda shop they might take a look.
First I am going to go back to the original carb. This new one seems much worse. I was just out in the garage, the throttle cable seem correct, but the idle would range from stalling to trying to run at 1,500 then zooming on up to over 4,000 and dropping down to stalled again. Some back firing going on at various times and speeds.
Have had this machine for about 6 years now and only have 250 miles on it. It started off with a leaking gas tank through the sender unit. Then the problems with health, moving, heat here, and plenty of these just poor operating times for my scooter career. Sure hope maybe your idea may work. So far it is the best idea I have had on this thread. Nobody else willing to say experience taught them whatever.
First, I will try going back to my original carb to see it that may be a help.
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