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OK, I have been reading off the web and have found one wrong idea I had. I have been trying to keep the idle down to about 1,000 rpm. Just had my brain readjusted as I read about 1,800 or so. I had forgotten that and know I had it written somewhere, just can't find it. Alternative is to raise idle till the wheel starts turning, then slow down the idle till the wheel stops turning.

Tomorrows project will be to reset idle and then see how things are going.

I found no way to do TDC and valve setup so I am now using the top side idea of loosening the screw, move the lever to minimize the clicking, then tighten the screw. Looks good in the films but my engine does not work that well.

1. If engine is not working those adjusters are difficult, to impossible, to move.
2. If engine is running, the front adjuster still needs encouraged to move and he back adjuster is free for about 1/2 the range.
3. Loosening the screw allows me to move the adjuster till the clicking gets reduced but then holding the adjuster with one hand and using the wrench to tighten the screw just is not happening. The screws go into a spinning action, back and forth, making it difficult to get a socket or wrench on them.

What I have been doing is watching a black mark I put on the adjuster and trying to get the adjuster tightened with the mark in the remembered location. Problem is that the adjuster wants to move as I tighten the screw, even though I am trying to hold it in place with pliers.

Carb idle seems go wander as I adjust things. For a while I thought I had the car set as it was running at about 1100 rpm on the gauge. I went to lunch, came back and now it would just rush up to 2,000 then on up to 3,000 and even higher. I was turning CW and CCW and finally the idle settled down to a little over 1,000 again. Slower than 1,000 and it stalls, higher seem not good as the wheel wants to spin.

I will continue to tweak the valve settings hoping for better balance and that if they are closer to proper, maybe the carb will begin to idle slower and the engine run a lot smoother. It still does not have a smooth idle nor does it have a smooth running at higher rpm's. It seems to surge and back off in most throttle settings. Sure not smooth like it was before. Maybe I should go back to the original carb if I can't get things settled soon.

Helps and hints appreciated. I hope it is not a valve train problem requiring surgery.

OK, I give up, I surrender, I can not find a way to determine TDC for my scoot. The only thing that seems to be available is a screw driver in the spark plug hole. No timing marks could be found. I have no peep hole on the top. Nor do I have a peek hole on the right side. What I thought would be a peep hole turns out to just be a machined surface for bolt head clearance. Thanks for the inputs that I did get, just nothing I could find on the machine.

Going back to the top side and listen for clicks. I did read enough comments about that but still not sure what I have on my hands so it will just be a blind effort for me. I should never have attempted to reset the valves as the engine was running pretty well at the time. Till I fixed it, now not so good. So I will start with the screwdriver in the spark plug hole and proceed. Hopefully to victory.

Evening: Well I did put the plug back in, had to charge the battery a bit, cranked enough to start. Ran a few seconds then shut off. The battery is still on charger. Tomorrow I will try to do the topside adjustment.

Interesting when it was cold, I could not move those adjustment arms. So tight I had to use the screw driver leverage to move them. Not free like some films have shown them. Tomorrow when it is warmed up, hot, I will see if that makes them looser and movable.

OK, I now have the belt cover off. Have looked for timing marks but find none. Seems strange there are none. So I ask again, where are the timing marks.

Today., and yesterday, I have been trying to reset the valves. Just not doing well at all. Some just maybe that I have the idle speed too high. But after lots of time running, the fan came on finally. Just not sure what I may have done with all my connecting and moving of wires while chasing the schematic. Many connections were taken apart and reconnected. Oh well, glad to hear that the temp sensor is good and the fan does run.

Back to timing. Can't tell which is exhaust or firing. But the front one does not change much at all and the rear one will change from running at 3,000 to 4,000 down to near nothing or stopped. Resetting the idle screw does not fix this.

I have been trying to use the one illustrated where with hot engine running, you loosen the nut, drag the arm to where the clicking is just starting, then tighten the nut. Just not working well for me at all. On the front one I can slip it along and try to tighten but not much changes on the engine speed and the arm seems to move. On the rear one it seems that full right on the arm means it slows or dies and if I move it to the front, the idle just takes off and rpm's go wild.

Tighten the nut and the arm does move, even with me trying to hold it with my pliers

I have been watching some films and one seemed like I would like to try it. Do it on a cold engine. Set timing to top dead center, then take each valve adjuster loose, bring the adjuster arm up till you feel the valve. Then back off a bit and lock the arm there. Then I would mark the arm position relative to the notch in the adjuster pivot area. This would give me a visible starting point for the active setting. The setting should not be far from this mark. And if close to where it says, I hope this would allow me to set a decent idle speed, which should make the adjustments much easier.

How do we find TDC on the vertical 250cc engine? I am mostly torn down now so it should not be much of a job to do.

cyborg, I just went over the wiring and can't find any loose connections. My memory does tell me that at one time I had more than one connection on the negative post of he battery. Maybe just thinking of the outside charger system I have used in the past.

I also checked against the schematic and found the cable attached to the negative post of the battery goes straight down about 6 inches below the battery to a frame ground position. Then a green wire goes from that point into the cable harness. From this ground point their is a heavy black wire that goes down to the starter motor.

So for now I have no idea what you mean about missing ground. All things seem to work but the fan. If you do have some solid idea please post it as I have tried to follow your suggestions and got nowhere at all. I do need some inspiration from someone.

Well, I was wrong when I said the fan won't run. I worked under lights but really prefer daylight. Actually what you asked me to do was the same as what I had tried before. But instead of shorting both post first. I just got both sensor wires together and nothing happened, so I turned on the switch and the fan started to run. Same as before, nothing ran till the switch was turned on.

Now on the schematic it shows two wires going to the minus side of the battery and two wires to he positive side also. I have been wondering about that and looked for the second wire for the negative side in the past. Tomorrow that will be a search for me. If that is the problem, then your idea is a winner. I will start to looking in daylight tomorrow. The schematic shows a wire to the negative post and to a ground point. Is reality also like a schematic? I will take a look tomorrow.