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Well my decision just happened. I went to our local ACE on Sunday morning and showed them an add from their web site. They did not have it so they ordered it for me. Tuesday is their truck day and it arrived this Tuesday, today, and had it not I would have it next Tuesday for sure. Price was 31.99 with 2.22 tax it came to 34.21. That is about $0.73 less than EBAY. I like keeping the money in local business if I can.

I think I can arrange to have the battery end of the cables at the front of the under seat bay where I can get to it without even lifting the seat. This looks like a very well thought out system. Thanks to all that responded to my post.

I just installed the cable end. Put a small notch in the front cover so I could bring the wires out there. I thought I could then just reach in and pull the cable out but it gets pinched on something so I still have to open the seat. Just how lazy can a person get? Anyway, opening the seat is not a big deal and right now I have it on the charger.
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Here is another subject where I hope to learn some useful solutions.

On my MC 54 250B I must lift the lid, take off a cover to expose the battery. I would like to start using a battery minder or slow charge to keep the battery ready for action. Also I would like to be able to test the battery charge both while running or in standby.

Now due to my lazy ways I would like to do this without taking off that inner cover and maybe without even lifting the seat.

My possible solution would be to make a wiring addition so that the positive and negative access could be brought direct to the outside so that the connections can be made and charge or test done readily. If not able to do it at some outside point then at least right under the seat, in the storage area.

I have not looked into Radio Shack yet or into any auto stores either, just thinking out lout here.

What I think I would need here are a couple of protected connection points. Maybe a connector that is inside of a plastic body and contact could be done by inserting a pin. Or if inside a terminal board with a plastic cover over it. I could probably mount and external connection point under the rear cargo carrier where it would not be in the way of the driver or passenger or if under the seat it would just be attached to one of the flat side walls.

Then I would need enough wire to reach from the battery to the extended connecting point. These wires would be permanently attached to the connecting point and would have rings on them so they could be put in place and held down by the battery connecting screws with the other wires already in place.

OK, that is my current thinking. So before I waste a bunch of time searching for connectors and ways to do this modification, I am just wondering. Has anyone ever tried this before and if so, was it successful?

If so I will likely follow the path taken. If not I will begin a search for good connection methods and see what I can come up with. If successful I will report back to the forum about what I did and how.

It just seems to me to be something that could have been designed into the production machines. Some cars have such alternatives to check and charge batteries from under the hood but the batteries are hidden under the motor or elsewhere in the car.
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I was just looking up the mileage on my scooter but could not find the average listed. I did find the spec for the tank and it said 3.4 gallons.

I have the Honda clone, 244cc, vertical engine.

I am trying to find how much I can trust my tank and gage. I put about two gallons in it this spring after I had taken the gage out and put a new gasket on it. I have now driven about 50 miles. I look into the tank and it looks about half full but the gage says one notch down from the full bar. I may have messed up the gage while taking it out and putting back in while trying to stop the leak.

So now I will probably need to run it based on the average miles per gallon. Fill it up, note the mileage on the speedometer, calculate the next fill up number, and have a good ride.

Anyone have a good average example? Or maybe several from different people.

The alternative of trying to calibrate the gage position by readjusting the float seems to be a bit more trouble than I want to put into it.
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Thanks to all. Now I have a justification and purpose for my headlight aiming. I probably won't drive a lot a night myself. But in the winter the light goes away pretty early and I may be caught in some darkness.

Also, I am concerned about how bright the lights may shine in someones mirrors with me following. A hot spot in the mirror can be very aggravating too, day or night. Would like to make sure I have them pointed for vision but not so high as to burn mirrors.
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OK, thanks JR. I am in Colorado now but may be in Arizona in a couple months. I may just wait to see how things are down there.
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Yesterday I was in my car and followed by a neighbor on a nice looking Harley. His left head light stood quite bright in my mirror but the right head light was pointed somewhere but not the same as his left.

So when I got home later I turned on my headlights of my MC 54 250B, and on the wall about 10 feet away I had a bright high beam left showing on the wall but the right was lower and right a bit. Retried that with the low beam headlights and it also showed the same. Left was lower than the high beam and the right was even lower and a bit to the right.

Are head lights adjustable? Is there a spec to be used? Not sure if what I have is appropriate or not.

I am sure there must be some opinions on this. Would like to hear them. Also, if there is a spec of some sort I would like to see that also.

I remember when auto headlights were required to fit a particular pattern and they were tested in annual safety tests. Now there doesn't seem to be any safety test and only a clean air test, if any.

Are motor cycles and scooters free of any headlight rules also?
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