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Post by bobf on Aug 26, 2012 18:46:35 GMT -6
Well Jr, I have the front panel, the windscreen, and the top of the instrument are off. I checked connections on the cables and they seemed tight. But I did not do a pin check on the wires. Still one big panel to remove. I think it must be removed and that is the wrap around panel on the front. Will look at that tomorrow if it is cool enough. If that comes off I will be able to work on the lights and also check better on the cables. It looks like a bunch of wires enter at the tac area. First must worry about the left headlight. I would like to set the headlight aim if I can get it properly attached. Just in case some day I may have to ride at night. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 26, 2012 17:02:34 GMT -6
Well Jr, my scoot has been sitting in the garage at temps as high as 110+ for a couple months now. Besides my kindney stones and eye surgeries I find summer in Arizona to be a bit to hot to ride. Today we were just in the nineties for part of the day so I was in the garage tinkering with the scoot. That was when I decided to post this note. It did that when I first bought the scoot a year plus ago. It was cold then, barely over freezing in Colorado winter. I guess if it is just for the idle setting I probably don't care about the way it acts. When riding I can barely see the instruments so I judge by how fast the fireplugs go past. If I can go with the flow of traffic I don't really care if it is 30 or 50. Not in any hurry to set speed records.
This afternoon I started to do the front tear down as I need to figure out how those head lights should be mounted. The right light is solid but the left light is loose and can swing around. Been that way since I bought. Hope to be able to squeeze in this job on not so hot days so I am ready when the temps come down a bit. A couple weeks back I saw 117 for a short while. Today it has risen to 113 in the garage. Plus we are now in the monsoon season and have high humidity, which is rare in Arizona.
Thanks for your comment. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 26, 2012 14:32:03 GMT -6
MC 54 250 with 244cc vertical engine.
My tach doesn't seem to trac the bike engine RPM very well at all.
It seems to trac at or below 2,000. But at 2,000 it then starts to dip as the engine accelerates. It seems to my ears that the engine is turning quite fast and then the tac starts climbing up. To me it seems to be near screaming and the tach is at 3,000. When let to idle it follows all the way down to about 1700 or 1800 where I expect it to be. I just don't understand the stalling and dropping at about 2000 and maybe not climbing again till the engine is really revving up.
To me it is a mystery tach but I don't use it when riding, just when I wish to idle the engine.
OK, any reasons for this weird action? .
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Post by bobf on Aug 14, 2012 16:36:10 GMT -6
I took the Motor Cycle Safety course before I even bought my scoot. Pretty scary when they aligned me to a 240cc tall combination dirt and highway bike. I nearly killed myself and crashed it twice early on. I wanted to have one of those 125cc types with a lower sitting and real brake pedal on the right side. But they would not do that for me. So I took my bloody knees and went home.
There was one guy that showed up with his body armor on, looked like a racer to me, but he got to ride a smaller bike while I was supposed to ride the racer looking bike
The test operator said she did not know why they insisted on this tall bike with the brake right close and under the foot peg. So they restarted me on a private lesson and test. I had to pay an extra fifty bucks over the regular price but it was worth it. I had not ridden any powered bikes since high school with my Whizzer bike.
By the late part of the day I was doing much better. I was starting, stopping, going through the cones at will. Almost got into confidence, but the test remained. First part, the slow moving sort of a figure 8 in a box was a disaster. But then the obstacles and road patterns and emergency stops went pretty well. I did pass. I went home and then ordered the scoot I now have.
I wonder just how important it is to drive in such a tight situation with no feet on the ground anyway. If I were in a close situation in a parking lot or gas station I would really be more likely to walk the bike through or find a more relaxed looking passage. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 14, 2012 13:03:29 GMT -6
Have you looked up to the cable you are pulling on? Some have a adjustment setup about midway on the cable. If yours has one maybe a bit of a adjustment will make it all work from the key action again. Assuming that it once did work from the key action. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 14, 2012 7:23:50 GMT -6
If you do get the seat to open by banging down over the rear latch, then plan an afternoon to take off some plastics and part of the tubs so you can check out the action of the latch itself. I did this on my scoot as it was not working properly from the day I bought it new. It actually seemed to get free after I forced the lever on the side latch to end some occasional interference. Just a bit of screw driver technology used there. Used the screwdriver as a pry bar. thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=discussion&action=display&thread=1514Not sure if your latches are cabled the same but worth looking into at the latch if you can. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 12, 2012 15:27:10 GMT -6
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Post by bobf on Aug 12, 2012 11:16:23 GMT -6
Here is the post that I thought I put her before. When I looked for any responses I could not find it. Turns out that I had put it on a different forum. Should have been here as I have at times posted about my kidneys going ape on me. Soon to be fixed, I hope. The misplaced post.
It is really hot here in Arizona south of Phoenix. I have a HJC open face helmut. It has several ventilation slots on it. I open them up but still my head goes into a great sweating session.
Is their a better brand of helmet? One that really helps keep the head cool. Now I don't go out too often yet but would like to go more often. My rides are short. Mostly shopping within a couple or three miles of city traffic, which means maybe 40 between lights and then stopping if the light catches me.
I see some riding about down here but they usually don't have helmets on, just a bandana over their heads or lots of hair. I can't depend on a bandana and I have no hair. I have a cracked skull due to brain surgery required to remove a tumor. I will ride but only with a helmet.
Appreciate any opinions on helmets as I will wear one. Maybe HJC helmets are good, especially if on longer trips. I just don't know and my daughter has always worn HJC helmets and convinced me they were good.
This coming Wednesday, the 15th of Aug, I will have my right kidney worked on with ultrasounds. My left kidney was done in mid May. I hope in a couple weeks after the operation that I will be feeling better once again and want to start riding again. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 12, 2012 11:06:26 GMT -6
Is it the tire or rim or air stem? Might make a difference in responders answers.
If rim is OK at sealing area then next point.
If rim is OK then check the tire for flaws on sealing area.
If rim and tire are OK at sealing areas then check the stem.
If stem is OK then possibly a tube would do the job. Not sure though as tubes also have problems of their own. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 10, 2012 14:01:31 GMT -6
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Post by bobf on Aug 10, 2012 9:49:13 GMT -6
My guess is this. With one cylinder for a given output is much noisier than a 2 cylinder with the same given output. One large cylinder makes a large bang while 2 smaller cylinders make two smaller bangs. Muffling is a bit easier, operation should be a bit smoother, and more gas used. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 9, 2012 19:39:26 GMT -6
130/60/13 tires on my scoot too.
I had a couple of 6" c-clamps and a big heavy duty screw driver.
I protected the rims with heavy cloths on one side of the rim to keep the clamps from digging in the rim. One side of clamp on the rim and the other side on the tire. Then used the c-clamp to compress the tire. I put one clamp about a foot to the rear of the stem and the other about a foot forward of the stem. Once you get the bead broke loose and the clamps pulled tight then you can get in there to seat the new valve.
I don't have a torque wrench so I just made the nut tight enough to prevent free movement but not tight enough to damage those rubber seals. They do seem to hold the pressure pretty well. I usually find them down a pound or two and then bring them back up to 32psi.
I believe there is a post, video, on replacing tires or maybe on replacing the stems. Maybe someone remembers or a search may find a post. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 9, 2012 14:28:15 GMT -6
Kurvygirl was the one I bought from. They were very quick in delivery.
I believe it was this set of two. 85 degree - Enkei Metal Valve Stem - set (2pcs)
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Post by bobf on Aug 8, 2012 18:07:37 GMT -6
I would being interested in how you fix it I got my scoot February 2011 and the rear latch has never worked, only the side latch works, Bob I'm glad your doing better hope your on the road soon, take care. Richard First thing to do is be prepared for a tear down of the rear half. You need to get to both the front and side latches. Would suggest that you remove them, take off the cables, make sure that all the cams are really free and not dragging. I won't have time right now but I intend to do a write up with pictures on how to do the tear down. For you it might be a job for off season activity. Damin69 has a good idea about pushing down on the rear of the seat just a bit faster than the side. As I was sitting there and constantly pushing down the seat I finally figured out the methodology of the second cable and the rear latch. As the side bar on the seat enters the latch it pushes the latch part to the side and that pulls the cable that goes to the rear latch and releases the locking part on the rear latch. So if the side bar enters too quickly it may release the lock before the rear bar gets there and it can not enter at all. The rear down first motion may save you from a tear down. I will do the tear down with comments, just don't know when. I will have the comments and photos of the latch areas soon. . This has turned into a false promise. Two weeks ago my PC was hit by a nasty virus. No way out of this one so I took it to a computer shop and had them cleanup and install, replace, Win7 for me. Next day they called and said it was cleaned. I went to the shop and all my files had been wiped out as well. So I came home, got my old PC working, had most of that PC on a running backup disc, but it is 6 months old. So after many days of finding what was missing and then running the old PC and back up disc till I found them to copy on a memory stick then copy from the memory stick into my newer PC. I am nearly done with all that now. Not all returned and never will be. So all the pictures I had taken of the tear down and cable routing have been lost. Sorry about that. At least the side and rear seat latches have been put on the forum already. For those that have not done a tear down I will say that it is not as hard as it looks. Remove the seat. Take off the seat hinge bracket. Loosen the sides. Remove the panel at the back and take two screws out above the license plate. Find the cable connector on the right rear side and disconnect. Now you should be able to lift off the two sides as one and set down on the left side. Work the lock keeper off. Disconnect the cable. Lift the lock out of the cover hole. Now put the side panels out of the way to avoid damage. Next is to take the battery out. Loosen the screws on the upper tub and lift it out of the way. There is still one more tub that can be removed but I did not need to for fixing the cables. Sorry, no pictures for this assignment after all. I had a bunch but they are gone. I thought I had a virus protection running on my newer laptop. Maybe I failed to keep it running. But now I have a full time running back up system on my new laptop. Bought it from Wal Mart for $28 dollars. A Western Digital my Passport Essential. Almost the same as the one on my older laptop. It worked well providing information for me to put on the new laptop. Some concerns though as they set themselves up to work with the particular PC they are connected to and don't much like starting on another PC. So it becomes attached to only one machine and that ends the portability I would like. So I will keep on looking for different ideas. Keep your firewalls working all the time. The day I took mine to the shop he had two other that came in the day before I did. All had the same kind of problem. .
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Post by bobf on Aug 3, 2012 20:33:22 GMT -6
Why not go to Rocketa and see what they have? They brought in thousands of these scoots and they advertize parts. Go to Rocketa and then browse the list of scoots till you find yours. Click on the parts list. Look for what you want and write it down. Next you will need to register to get to the parts for sale area. I am all ready for anything I need but so far have not ordered anything.
Maybe some one can also offer a parts store locally. .
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