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Post by cruiser on Oct 14, 2011 0:47:20 GMT -6
Best of luck with your new wheels, Jalat. We will miss you. Maybe the wife's 50cc will need some advice? Don't be a stranger.
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Post by cruiser on Oct 9, 2011 21:03:22 GMT -6
JR's advice is the easiest and best way to gain rpms. It will also generally increase acceleration.
150cc scoots are usually not restricted mechanically like you describe. There really is no reason to restrict these scoots as they are considered to be motorcycles and do not have legal speed restrictions imposed on them like a moped (50cc). Restrictions which do occur are emissions related. This will generally result in the main jet being leaner than that which will give best performance. You may have a restricted CDI which can limit the rpm, but most scoots do not have this restriction.
Like JR says, variator tuning will give the best results. If you notice that the rpm is still limiting at 7000 after going to lighter weights, then the CDI is probably restricted.
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Batteries
by: cruiser - Oct 7, 2011 21:14:02 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Oct 7, 2011 21:14:02 GMT -6
Hi Mcalli. Fuses are rated in amps. The value is determined by the load (radio, lights, etc.) and the wiring associated with the fuse circuit which is designed to carry a certain amount of current (amps). The fuse is designed to protect the device it is connected to along with the wiring. Changing a fuse to a higher number may allow too many amps which can overload the wiring resulting in melting of the insulation and possible short circuits. The amount of amps a wire can carry is determined by the thickness or gage of the wire. Thicker wires carry more current.
Most accessory plugs come with a 10 amp fuse because that's what the wiring for the plug will safely carry.
Batteries are categorized by the output volts. Car, motorcycle, and scoots use 12 volt batteries. The actual amp output is determined by a specification known as ampere/hours (AH) which determines how powerful a battery is. Using the highest AH battery that will fit in your battery compartment will give the best reliability and performance.
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Post by cruiser on Oct 7, 2011 10:54:05 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Oct 5, 2011 12:21:27 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Oct 4, 2011 0:05:02 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Oct 3, 2011 18:59:23 GMT -6
Hey Flatty, welcome to the forum. We look forward to helping you with the wife's "new" wheels. Maybe someday you will move up to a nice scoot too? I really like BMW's in general.
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Post by cruiser on Oct 3, 2011 18:48:55 GMT -6
Been there, done that.  I used the DeWalt impact wrench that is cloned by Harbor Freight with the red impact wrench you mentioned. I still lost my variator nut and chewed up my fan. Either the belt was pinched in the variator or my tightening guesstimate with the wrench was a little low? I know a lot of people may be trying to avoid the use of some type or variator wrench to keep the variator from turning while tightening and that may be the reason for only using the impact wrench for tightening even when a specific torque value is required. I bought a heavy duty strap wrench and tightened the variator according to specs with a torque wrench. I also used a lock washer, locktite, and a self locking nut. It's all good know. |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 29, 2011 20:08:36 GMT -6
The description is a bit sketchy. It appears to be a full automatic 6 speed transmission with an automatic hydraulically operated dual clutch. So no foot pedals and that would mean a foot rest area similar to our scoots?
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Post by cruiser on Sept 25, 2011 21:16:12 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Sept 24, 2011 11:59:46 GMT -6
Thanks for the input, Dave. It looks like even though we have plenty of output, we are losing about 50% through the wiring and connectors. Also, the low starting voltage output of the R/R isn't enough to overcome the voltage drops in the scoot's wiring and we eventually end up with a discharging battery.
There is a possibility that the 7 wire R/R that Jalat tested was the limiting component even though it started with good voltage readings. The readings could have dropped because the R/R wasn't designed to supply enough current for this application. This brings us back to the OMP R/R which can supply more output than the stator can input to it. Even when using the OMP unit, the voltage will eventually drop too much when trying to use a reasonable amount of power. Sounds like we need to overhaul the wiring with heavier wiring and better connectors - something that JR has always advocated.
Still suspicious of the stator. We know that the replacement R/R's are not all the same quality and I wonder if this is true of the replacement stators?
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Post by cruiser on Sept 23, 2011 22:24:29 GMT -6
The Honda Helix stator is rated at 240 watts (about 20 amps). This is what our 244cc engine is supposed to be a clone of. So, if the dimensions are the same, we have a quick and pricey (about $150) answer to the low charging problem. Of course, you have to ensure that the regulator is up to the task which could involve another $100. Anyone know the dimensions of the Honda Helix stator?
Another question - do any of our vendors know the rated output of the stators they sell? Do they have a 240W stator for the Cfmoto clone?
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Post by cruiser on Sept 22, 2011 20:27:30 GMT -6
Jalat, thank you for your exhaustive work on behalf of all the Cfmoto scoot owners and others who are interested in this problem. If you noticed, I did not show too much enthusiasm for the outcome of this mod.
The reason for this is based on the OMP R/R mod done by Todd (aka Damien) and Matt (aka yoster). Although they were happy with the OMP R/R, they were still not running a full load all the time on the charging system. It seems that while the charging voltage was improved for most of the time, they were still not running both headlights all the time and they were also trying to find ways to limit the cooling fan operation in order to save power. I believe the stator did not have enough output amps to maintain a proper charging voltage out of the R/R when the full electrical load was applied. The OMP R/R is easily capable of handling the full output of the Cfmoto stator, but the voltage will drop because of the limited output of the stator. I believe this would happen regardless of what R/R is used.
There is a possibility the problem can be attributed solely to the stator. Scoot owners who have the Linhai engines don't seem to have charging problems. The only difference electrically between the Linhai based scooter and the Cfmoto is the stator.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 21, 2011 18:21:07 GMT -6
These grip heaters take about 10 watts so they are no too bad. Would only be used when very cold which could be very soon for Jalat. It will be interesting to see readings with everything running. I have had the impression that a weak stator was part if not all of the problem with these scoots. Hope this R/R does the trick.
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sorry guys
by: cruiser - Sept 16, 2011 14:12:28 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Sept 16, 2011 14:12:28 GMT -6
All this stuff is perfectly good if it's posted in the right part of the forum. There is a Student Bulletin Board which works just like the physical board you would find in a college dorm or public building. I will move this to that section. This is really 2 threads - one is the apology which no one is responding to and the second is the item for sale which is the way the thread is going. The subject line may be misleading.
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