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Post by cruiser on Sept 15, 2011 0:32:29 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Sept 14, 2011 11:20:25 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Sept 13, 2011 21:05:04 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, ihrugby. Like JR said, you have 2 good scoots to start with. I'm sure you'll get them up and running in no time. We are here to help you out with the special problems that these rascals can come up with.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 12, 2011 18:48:52 GMT -6
The reading on these wires is normal. One side of the connector is wired directly to the battery. This is the charging path when the engine is running and the diode is conducting. It appears that there is some charging going on when the engine is running. One rule of troubleshooting charging system problems is always start with a fully charged battery. Your battery is low to start with and it would take the system quite a while to bring the voltage back up to the normal range. The battery should be at about 12.8 volts minimum before you start checking for charging problems.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 11, 2011 21:38:56 GMT -6
Excellent write up, Evil. This format should be used for all product reviews.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 10, 2011 20:23:59 GMT -6
According to your subject title, it sounds like you are interested in an inexpensive 250cc motorcycle. Any properly prepared 250 whether it's a scooter or a motorcycle will do what you are asking. Reliability for Chinese scoots or motorcycles is, in large part, a function of proper maintenance and a good PDI. There is a good selection of Chinese motorcycles out there which will outperform Chinese scooters in general. THIS model is particularly interesting for $1699 delivered. I believe the acceleration claim of 0 to 102 mph in 8 seconds is a typo.  0 to 100 kph (62 mph) is most likely accurate. It would be similar to buying a drop shipped scoot - no dealer network, questionable reliability and quality, but a lot of performance and fun for the money for the person with the right mindset and ability to do their own maintenance. Scooter forums can provide a lot of support for scooter owners, no so much for motorcycle owners. Maybe there are some Chinese motorcycle forums out there? Here's a possibility: .chinariders.net/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .chinariders.net/index.php |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 10, 2011 19:34:40 GMT -6
Welcome to the University of Scooterology, Dave. Glad you could make it. You can just audit the forum, but remember, tuition is free so join in anytime.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 9, 2011 21:49:31 GMT -6
That's what I expected from doing research on other people using this R/R. 5 to 6 volts DC at the white wire under load at normal operating speed. I would think the fan would be more of a load than the enricher so the output would probably drop more using the white wire to power the fan. There was AC mixed with the DC also? Not good for a DC motor.  Hope you guys had a good time at the County Fair, JR. |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 6, 2011 13:54:41 GMT -6
The low price quoted was for a Labor Day weekend sale. Apparently the regular price prevails now.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 6, 2011 13:46:08 GMT -6
Your welcome, Paul. The connector where the 3 stator wires feed to the R/R is a common trouble spot. Some people even solder the wires instead of using the connector.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 5, 2011 19:58:18 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Sept 5, 2011 19:45:49 GMT -6
The 3 yellow wires from the stator are the AC output wires which connect to the 3 yellow input wires of the regulator/rectifier. The regulated DC output is the red wire on the other connector. The black wire is a voltage sensing wire which is an input to the R/R and is used by the R/R to regulate the output voltage. The green wire is a ground.
The stator is always running at maximum output and the R/R determines how this power is used. Turning off the lights will only cause the R/R to shunt the excess stator output to ground. The actual amount of current going through the yellow wires will remain the same with lights on or off. Poor connections at the plug for the yellow wires can cause an overheat problem and a defective R/R can cause the same thing.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 5, 2011 19:24:01 GMT -6
Well, guys, I have been reading this thread with some interest. I was waiting to see if anyone would chime in and say what the output voltage of the white wire was. There seems to be an assumption that it is the same as the red wire which feeds the battery. I was thinking if that was the case, why not (from the manufacturer's viewpoint) just eliminate the white wire feed and connect the enricher directly to the output of the R/R? After doing some research across a few forums, I came up with this from swakanobbi over on the scooterchinois French motor scooter forum. .scooterchinois.fr/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=939&forum=54" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.scooterchinois.fr/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=939&forum=54The third entry on this thread says that he measured the output of the white wire at 6 volts DC. It doesn't look like a good candidate for the cooling fan feed if that reading is correct. I also feel that the 7 pin regulator is not as robust as the 6 pin OEM regulator as far as the amount of power output on the red wire. The eBay link for the scrappydog R/R is for an OBO auction, so if anyone wants to lowball a bid they might get a real good buy.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 4, 2011 22:07:59 GMT -6
To follow up. The regulator is sitting on the shelf. I'm assumig the fuel pump is not strong enough the activate the regulator. But it runs the scooter. Was crusing 55-60 for 5-6miles and no slow downs. One more issue checked off the list. Cruiser, I hope you didn't get hit to hard by the storm. Thanks, rp. No damage here. Did lose power for about a day. At least it gave me an excuse to get my old generator up and running. I think your analysis of the regulator is right on. If the carb is in good shape it should handle the output of the low pressure electric fuel pump with no problems. |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 29, 2011 18:12:48 GMT -6
It sounds like it runs only when the auto enricher is working and when the needle extends shutting off the enricher circuit, the engine stalls. After the 20 minute wait the enricher might be cool enough to let the engine start again? An easy way to check this is disconnect the wire running to the enricher while it's still cold and see if it keeps running. If it does keep running, then the carb either needs a more thorough cleaning and adjustment or replacement altogether.
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