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Post by cruiser on Aug 28, 2011 22:57:08 GMT -6
Your welcome, Alley. Hope I never have to use one too.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 27, 2011 19:52:34 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Aug 22, 2011 22:01:33 GMT -6
Welcome to U-Scoot, Ernie. I hope your local dealer has a good mechanic and treats you fairly. Once you are through with the dealer, then you can graduate to U-Scoot and we will be more than happy to further your scoot education.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 22, 2011 21:41:11 GMT -6
Welcome cf1. Sounds like some crap from the bottom of the fuel tank may have partially blocked the fuel delivery system. It's a good idea to replace the fuel lines and filter before putting the scoot on the road. This is part of a PDI which is good to do to prevent future problems.
There is a possibility that your carb may need cleaning, but you might want to check the fuel flow into the carb. Pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and start the engine and check to see the fuel flow into a suitable container. I'm assuming that you have a vacuum fuel pump, so you should see fuel pulsing out of the hose (not dripping). If this isn't happening you have to keep tracing back towards the fuel tank to see where the blockage is. Disconnecting the fuel line at the inlet to the fuel pump should produce a steady stream of gas. Blockages can occur at the outlet of the fuel tank, the fuel filter, or even inside the fuel pump.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 19, 2011 21:12:34 GMT -6
The relay switching HIDs work fine with a properly functioning hi/lo headlight system.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 18, 2011 20:18:04 GMT -6
You didn't mention which HID system you had so I wanted to make sure you didn't have the standard HID system which does not give hi beams. I also have the hi-lo HID setup and almost bought the standard set up thinking that I would get both beams.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 18, 2011 19:59:47 GMT -6
Hey guys....I changed my turn signal/headlight switch out and I got the exact one from . roketa.com ..... for $50.00.... it is plug and play once you get down the wires and connectors... my change out did not fix my prob... still can not get the high beams to work with the hi/lo switch...lo is on till I use the passing switch to get high beams...any suggestions...I have the HID mod and it works just like the OEM bulbs....not sure what is wrong....thanks...try and tighten the turn signal lever...it will come loose and causes the switch to be hard to cancel the blinkers.... The HID mod will not work just like the OEM bulbs because OEM bulbs have 2 filaments in each bulb. One for hi beam and one for lo beam. HID bulbs are gas discharge and only have one source of light per bulb. In order to get a true hi-lo beam function, you would need 4 HID bulbs - 2 for hi and 2 for lo beams. The more common and less expensive set up is the hi-lo HID conversion which uses a relay to mechanically move the bulb to simulate a hi and lo beam light. Standard HID systems will only operate on one beam.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 16, 2011 21:59:35 GMT -6
Welcome, scootersenior. Your scoot is a popular model and there is a wealth of knowledge here on maintenance and troubleshooting. If you have not done a PDI, then you should go through the steps because this will avoid a lot problems like loose bolts and electrical problems.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 14, 2011 21:05:13 GMT -6
I dunno, JR. I think it might be a down grade for you. No red.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 14, 2011 20:37:31 GMT -6
Have to agree with JR. I have been running an electric fuel pump for a couple of years with no regulator. No problems. I have read that the combination of a low pressure fuel pump and using a regulator to try to maintain a low pressure sometimes results in no pressure until you turn up the regulator into a range that the fuel pump alone would not surpass which makes the regulator redundant.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 14, 2011 20:24:47 GMT -6
Welcome Ian. That is a pretty scoot. I'm sure you will have many happy miles on it. I have visited your country a couple of times when I was in the Navy. My duty was in Edzell which is no longer active. A couple of my friends and I as a designated driver drove completely around Scotland and I must admit it is a beautiful country. It's just hard to stay on the wrong side of the road. Never did try the haggis.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 11, 2011 20:48:53 GMT -6
Like zug say, I'm sure you can find a 13" car tire that will fit. However, car tires are not designed for traction when they are leaned over like on scooters and motorcycles making a curve. Also, car tires are designed to carry much heavier loads than a scooter so they will give a hard ride and also will most likely weigh more than a scoot tire so they will hurt your acceleration.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 11, 2011 11:16:53 GMT -6
Hi Jalat. The CDI responds to a change in voltage (a pulse or an on/off event) at the input from the pickup coil. This would most likely be a red/white wire. Measure at this point on the CDI for 12 volts after the ignition is turned on. There should be no voltage present. If there is then you have a short or miswire between 12 volts and the input from the pickup coil. This short would override any input from the pickup assuming the pickup coil is still hooked up correctly.
There should be DC only on the black wire with the ignition on.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 11, 2011 0:00:36 GMT -6
The bullet connectors with the green and black wires at the front of the scoot are just a spare or accessory key controlled power hook up. I have the same connectors on my scoot and they were not connected. I believe I used it for my LCD digital voltmeter. Here's a link which should help out on the CDI as well as the electrical system in general: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gele&action=display&thread=248The CDI and schematic can be found on page 10.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 10, 2011 15:45:48 GMT -6
Good analysis, Jalat, but I don't think the pulse generator is adjustable. It sounds like you might be losing the DC input to the CDI. As a quick check, I would try jumping 12 volts off the battery directly to the black/grey or black (DC input) wire connector at the CDI and then try starting. If it keeps running, then this will be the problem. Checking the DC feed circuit to the CDI would be the next step.
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