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Post by cruiser on Jul 15, 2012 21:28:48 GMT -6
When you jump across the two large terminals of the starter relay, you are connecting the battery directly to the starter. Make sure that the large red wire from the battery to the starter relay is well connected on both ends and that the ground between the battery and engine is good. If the other heavy wire running from the relay to the starter is also well connected, then it sounds like you have a starter problem.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 15, 2012 21:11:01 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Jul 13, 2012 20:52:05 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. I would follow JR's advice first and see if that satisfies your need for speed. Another thing to consider is some scoots have a rev limiter build into the CDI. A non restricted CDI will ensure that you will get maximum revs. You should be able to pull 8500 to 9000 rpms (but don't hold it too long).
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 23:52:09 GMT -6
Thanks cruiser, you are the winner. Funny how the simple things slip your mind, lol. Your welcome, Shane. Glad it was an easy fix. We are here for the hard stuff too!
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 17:28:47 GMT -6
Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is that NOT JR Alleyoop That's not JR, Alley. The scoot isn't red.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 14:59:58 GMT -6
Thanx JR and John. I can't say i have seen that silver metal diode on mine but it has the regulator with the cooling fins as well as the other black box with the white plugs. JR I had a look at those versions especially the euro one which has a light switch but it is a little Greek to me. Also my scooter does not have a side stand cut off switch. I have a 2008 Jonway YY250T. Here is a picture of the regulator/rectifier (large heat sink thing). To the left is the blocking diode (small heat sink thing). To the right is the CDI. Let us know how this compares with your setup. All this is located just above the muffler on by scoot.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 14:52:20 GMT -6
Hey, Jim. Do you know where we can get some headrests like this guy has?
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 14:48:51 GMT -6
Hi Shane. You have to adjust the switches so the brake lights go on only when you squeeze the brake handle. Remember, these scoots start only when either brake handle is squeezed.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 12, 2012 14:46:14 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, Shane. I noticed you already posted with a problem. See you on that thread.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 11, 2012 0:36:07 GMT -6
It looks like the flange on the header end was welded on at a different angle from the original which throws off the alignment of the pipe. Also looks like the hole spacing on the header flange may be greater than the original. Is the welded on bracket usable? Also, one is shiny and the other is rusty?
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Post by cruiser on Jul 10, 2012 21:26:28 GMT -6
I think maybe trvstlh thought he was posting on the "other" forum and was trying to give someone some good info about this forum? He has been on the other forum posting about this problem. I mentioned JR's post to him which shows the YY250T radiator.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 10, 2012 21:12:08 GMT -6
I have what is most likely a really dumb question. Is there such an animal as a service/repair manual for this scooter? By the way the diagram link you have me is great. It looks like most wireing is the same color and I SEE the diode now! Cruiser how long have you had your 2008 Jonway YY250T? Has it served you well for the most part. I love my 2008 this charging thing has just been a drag. I bought my scoot new in 2008. It has served me well once I made adjustments for the weak charging system which is common to these scoots. It is a smooth and peppy scoot and has all the original parts except the fuel pump which I switched to electric at the PDI. Also upgraded to 19 gram sliders which was well worth the money. Right now I am going to do some carb work due to idle related problems. Parts are reasonable too. I picked up an exact replacement carb for $43.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 9, 2012 19:29:29 GMT -6
HID flicker usually happens because of supply voltage problems. Make sure that the HID's have their own dedicated supply line (14 guage wire minimum) and a 20 amp automotive spade style fuse which attaches directly to the battery. Make sure you have a good supply line and if the problem persists the battery voltage may be dropping too low when the lights are turned on. Most people with 150cc scoots have to convert their electrical systems to full DC instead of the AC/DC in order to supply enough DC power for HID's.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 8, 2012 19:49:54 GMT -6
The main jet on my carb is a #107. This is a lean jet and could explain why the mileage figures are so good. However, this could also give poor performance and a hot running engine unless the carb calibration is very good. I did not check the needle valve setting or the pilot jet size.
Maybe these carbs are a better quality than the OEM types and they certainly are a good price.
I'm waiting for a little cooler stretch of weather to tackle the carb replacement.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 8, 2012 19:21:25 GMT -6
JR has done a very thorough analysis on this problem. The connections on the back side of the fuse block tend to be loose. The original fans can also be power hogs and all connections (crimped and soldered) should be checked. The diode certainly sounds bad and the R/R is a weak point on these scoots. As JR says, get the wiring and connection problems fixed before changing out parts.
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