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Post by cruiser on Aug 2, 2012 22:28:22 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, tutsoul. Check your PM's.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 1, 2012 21:46:33 GMT -6
Great to have you with us, Mark. JR is the expert on the Linhai scoots. We have a few of us that own the CF250 engined scoots which are a clone of your CN250.  |
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Post by cruiser on Jul 29, 2012 19:04:43 GMT -6
Nice neat install, Todd. It looks like you successfully designed the quick release mounts? How did you wire the saddlebags - as taillights or turn signals or even running lights? Nice job.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 25, 2012 20:44:26 GMT -6
My thoughts and prayers are with you and all your neighbors, JR. Maybe you guys will be blessed with a nice thunderstorm.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 25, 2012 0:19:52 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. It sounds like Alley has the right diagnosis. Hopefully the problem is only with the fuse. The original fuses are not the best quality and sometimes fail. The wire connections to the fuse should also be checked to make sure they make good contact. Let us know what you find. |
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Post by cruiser on Jul 24, 2012 22:05:10 GMT -6
The stator is always operating at maximum output depending on engine speed. The regulator/rectifier does not control the output of the stator. It takes whatever the stator outputs and sends it to the battery for charging and to the various electrical circuits of the scoot. If all the power available is not used, then the regulator/rectifier will shunt the excess to ground. The trick is to not have too much power shunted to ground which will overheat the R/R and also to have enough power to keep the battery charged after the scoot's electrical needs are satisfied. A well balanced system will keep the battery charged while not shunting to much power to ground.
Using LED's and other power saving measures is done to make up for a weak charging system or the addition of other power robbing accessories. Some scoots may do fine without resorting to power saving measures. In any case, there will be little or no change to fuel mileage by changing to LED's or using other electrical power saving measures.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 24, 2012 21:51:30 GMT -6
You should use the manufacturer recommended oil for break in. Higher viscosity can be used after break in if you are operating in high temps and at high speeds for extended periods. Lower viscosity is OK for lower temps or lighter duty use. I use a 5W-40 synthetic which pretty well covers all New England situations.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 22, 2012 19:34:10 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Jul 22, 2012 19:23:30 GMT -6
Richard I spent several hours looking for the dual linhai intake and I've not had any luck. There was a company making them and I've not run across them...........yet! A T can be used and also one can add a port easily themselves, I have on my GY-6 150. I like the seperation and isolating the fuel pump, it makes a difference IMO. JR Have to agree with JR. I spent some hours looking also with no luck.  |
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Stumped
by: cruiser - Jul 21, 2012 11:04:33 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Jul 21, 2012 11:04:33 GMT -6
That is a very good vacuum reading. The reading is jumpy because it is a single cylinder engine so the quage is reading the pulsing vacuum. More cylinders = smoother vacuum. This pulsing vacuum characteristic is necessary for vacuum fuel pumps that are found on some of these engines.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 21, 2012 10:58:05 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. Here's a picture of the fuse box next to the battery:  You should also check the connectors that push up through the bottom of the fuse box. They tend to be loose and sometimes make a bad connection with the fuse. |
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Post by cruiser on Jul 19, 2012 19:33:14 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, theonly1honeybee. Determining what the OEM bulbs are will be a great help. Sometimes adjusting the aim helps. Most of the 250 scoots come with 25 or 35 watt headlights, but they are not the most efficient. Some of the direct replacement xenon bulbs might do the trick. Like yoster says, the HID bulbs are about the brightest for the money. I also have these on my scoot. HID's are not a direct replacement because of the additional electronics required to operate them. Let us know what you find. Pictures would also be a help.
My honeybee is pictured in my avatar.
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Post by cruiser on Jul 19, 2012 19:20:58 GMT -6
I have a voltage gauge on my scoot and the fan drops the voltage from 15-16 to 10 volts when it comes on. That voltage drop always seems high to me. But if it is normal a switch on the fan might leave you sitting with a dead battery after a long ride. That is a very high drop in voltage. My YY250T normally runs at 14.5 volts with a drop to around 14.0 volts with the fan on. JR has good advice on reducing this voltage drop. If this doesn't fix the problem, you may be having problems with the regulator/rectifier. |
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Post by cruiser on Jul 18, 2012 19:01:06 GMT -6
All good advise from yoster, especially when working on the variator. I also have the 244cc clone. The electric impact wrench is a necessity and I use a torque wrench along with a strap wrench to tighten the variator nut to specs. Here's the strap wrench I use:  I also use threadlock, a lock washer, and a self locking nut. Make sure you are not pinching the belt between the variator halves when tightening the variator nut. |
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Hi I'm New
by: cruiser - Jul 16, 2012 19:40:30 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Jul 16, 2012 19:40:30 GMT -6
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