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Post by cruiser on Aug 28, 2012 22:08:42 GMT -6
The remote start/alarm system also uses the same style "antenna".
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Post by cruiser on Aug 28, 2012 21:52:49 GMT -6
The one big draw back is that fuel tank in front of the fan. I am pretty sure if we can swap them around the fan will work much less. I am surprised (to my knowledge) that nobody has attempted and published such a swap around. Many thanx for the input JR, Cruiser and John You're welcome, scootaway. There is no room in front of the gas tank for a radiator/fan system. The main reason is the gas tank. The gas tank used in the Linhai scoots is shaped to allow a radiator setup in front of the tank. It is lower and longer than the 244cc tank. The tank used for the 244cc is the same as the 150cc that uses the same body. No problem with the air cooled 150cc. I believe the tank in the Linhai scoot will not fit the 244cc because of interference with a frame member at the rear of the tank. Sooo, the fan running should be no problem with a charging system which is running at peak with all the helper mods. However, this is OK only if the cooling system is happy. The only way I see to improve the cooling is with an additional small radiator like this: .thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1057808" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1057808 |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 25, 2012 22:11:47 GMT -6
While we are scratching our heads on this one, did you guys notice that there are some scoots that don't use the standard wiring convention for the starter circuit. Take a look at the Roketa MC-12-150 and Aruba diagrams. They run one side of the starter relay directly to ground.  The 12 volt feed runs through the starter switch which is in turn fed by the brake circuit. There is no switching on the ground side. A 12 volt short on the positive feed of the starter relay would be a lot easier to figure out without trying to work with a problem on the ground side. Hopefully he has this type of setup. So what kind of scoot does Random Hero have? |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 25, 2012 21:26:46 GMT -6
The Euro version does take the blocking diode out of the equation which could cause a lose of .5 volts or more. Like JR says, even with that advantage, you will still need to do all the tricks to help out the charging system.
Looking for more than 14 volts charging with everything running is a stretch for these scoots. You really don't have to have that much voltage to charge the battery. Anything above 13 volts will charge the battery. My scoot will give me at least 13.6 volts with everything on (two 35 watt HID's, fan, and electric fuel pump). 14.2 volts with one headlight off.
I have the original R/R and have done the LED changeover. I also changed the radiator fan to a more efficient model which saved about 2 amps and I also upgraded the charging circuit wiring. I also have 7 watt LED running lights which do not really save much power (1 watt), but they are really bright and could be a backup if you ever lose your headlights. Very noticeable in the daytime. Most people use the 1 watt LED's which could save another 5 watts of power. I just received LED replacements for my dash lights and this will give me another few watts of power saving when installed.
With the above changes and changing over to the original vacuum fuel pump, I might be able to pull over 14 volts with everything running. Really no need at this time.
Some members have upgraded their R/R's by using a unit from Oregon Motorcycle. The main advantage with this is the added reliability and the ability to handle a much higher output than what our scoots can supply. Let us know how things go.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 24, 2012 22:02:08 GMT -6
The main difference between the front and rear tires is the thread design. The front has to be more resistant to hydroplaning in the wet and has to give good directional stability in varying road conditions like road grooving during road repairs and also metal bridge grates. Rear tires are designed more for traction while accelerating and braking. They also have to handle more weight loading than the front tire does. Where you choose to use the tire (front or rear) can depend on your style of driving and the condition of the roads your travel and what kind of weather you drive in.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 21, 2012 18:19:32 GMT -6
Nice find, John. I saw it on my earlier google run. I'm quite sure it won't fit the 150cc which is a 2 piece gasket.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 21, 2012 16:52:34 GMT -6
Nice job, JR. I'll give you a 5 out of 10 for finding one of the 2 gaskets and an extra point for finding it in the USA.  |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 20, 2012 22:09:33 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Aug 17, 2012 20:25:33 GMT -6
You are lucky there wasn't more damage. It doesn't take long to grind away plastic and if the gas tank was involved, you probably wouldn't even be posting here. I had a back up monitor camera on my motorhome. I wired it so I could turn it on whenever I was towing something and this would allow me to keep an eye on things. You might want to think about doing this. |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 17, 2012 20:16:01 GMT -6
Good advice from wolfhound. I guess I should carry my pistol also. In any case, I hope he has a complete recovery and is scooting soon.
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Post by cruiser on Aug 10, 2012 15:19:11 GMT -6
Good advice, JR. I'm changing my shampoo right now!  |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 9, 2012 13:17:56 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Aug 8, 2012 22:42:14 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. Your solenoid is OK. Your scoot might have a fuse block containing 4 fuses under the seat located next to the battery. Check the fuses and the connectors underneath the fuses. If the fuses are the original ones, they should be replaced with good American ones. Let us know what you find.  |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 8, 2012 21:59:04 GMT -6
I'm sure that was an unforgettable experience. Nice to know that our scoots are snow worthy. I hope that never happens to me. I don't even like riding in the rain.  |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 3, 2012 21:44:57 GMT -6
The CfMoto engine is fairly tolerant of tight valve settings. This can make it difficult to set a good idle speed even when the engine seems to run good. After checking for leaks at the intake manifold like kz said, I would adjust the valves before going any further. Both my valve adjusters moved 2 notches for the best adjustment. This also improved starting and idling.
The headlight problem could be a bad bulb, but I think it's either a bad connection or the bulb was improperly installed to start with.
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