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Post by cruiser on Sept 29, 2012 17:31:04 GMT -6
Have to agree with JR on the valve gaps. He owns two of these scoots and has thousands of miles on them. Trying to avoid a future valve adjustment by over compensating now will only result in poor performance and excess noise. Do a little research and you will find that there are some methods used to shorten this procedure. After the first couple of adjustments you will find the adjustment interval will be longer as the parts have worn in.
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New guy
by: cruiser - Sept 28, 2012 21:59:21 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Sept 28, 2012 21:59:21 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, ccortus. When a scoot stops running the usual checks are for spark, fuel, and compression. It sounds like you are chasing a no spark condition as you are checking out the stator after replacing all the ignition components. Give us more info about your scoot (pics would be nice) and we should be able to give you some good answers.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 22, 2012 17:28:08 GMT -6
John and KZ have good advice. You may have a frozen piston or caliper. If you are not comfortable working on brakes, then go to a shop that can repair it. Brake systems are fairly easy to work on but experience is needed to avoid problems.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 21, 2012 21:03:03 GMT -6
Well, I guess we all know that the front brakes are supposed to handle most of the braking job. Once the weight shifts under braking, the rear wheel has less traction than the front. High performance motorcycles have enough braking power in the front where they can lift the rear wheel off the ground.
As wheezy suggested, changing the brake fluid is a good idea. Many people have felt improved brake feel and performance after doing this.
Like John (jct842) says, removing the fake ABS would give a true feel of what the front brake is doing. With the fake ABS you will never get a firm linear feel to the brake which is what you get with the rear brake. This is why the rear brake feels like it has more braking power.
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Post by cruiser on Sept 12, 2012 21:19:53 GMT -6
I found that fork seals for a Honda CN250 Reflex fit and work perfectly. And for a lot less that new fork struts. Welcome to the forum, skyrider.  Thanks for the info. |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 12, 2012 21:07:39 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, Jason. Massachusetts also requires the registration of any road vehicle with 50 or less cc's. Maybe you can score a non-functioning 50cc scoot for cheap (with papers) and use the Wahoo to fix it up? There is a lot of info on the Linhai scoots here and JR is the acknowledged "Scooter Professor" when it comes to these scoots. Alleyoop is the carb expert. So feel free to tap our knowledge and let us know what you are doing with your scoot. |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 11, 2012 19:31:05 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Sept 10, 2012 21:11:56 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, dhull. The starter switch completes the ground side of the starter relay. This goes to the red/yellow wire on the starter relay. Set your meter to measure resistance. Attach the black lead to the negative pole of the battery and the red wire to the terminal for the red/yellow wire on the starter relay. The meter should read zero or very close to zero when pressing the starter switch. The brake switches feed 12 volts to the yellow/green wire when either brake is depressed once the ignition switch is turned on. Make sure that you have your meter set to measure 12 volts DC and that the ignition key is turned on. You should get a 12 volt reading at the yellow/green terminal when either brake is squeezed. One way to make sure the brake switches are OK is that the brake lights work when you use either brake. Let us know what readings you come up with. |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 8, 2012 0:35:34 GMT -6
Have you tried cranking the engine with the coil disconnected? If no pop, then the problem lies with the wiring to the coil or the way the coil is connecting to the CDI or a shorted primary. Did you try measuring the resistance of the B/Y wire to ground (disconnected from the coil) to make sure it isn't shorting to ground? Is the B/Y wire going to the ground side of the coil? Since the primary side of the coil has low resistance (.1 to .2 ohms according to the Helix manual) it can be difficult to diagnose a shorted condition with everything hooked up.
Feeding the output of the CDI to ground would cause a short as it probably steps the voltage up to around 300 volts to the coil. Hard to say what damage if any would occur?
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Post by cruiser on Sept 5, 2012 19:03:20 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, desertdood. It sounds like you are certainly experienced with heat as far as operating your scoot. Most 244cc scoots overheat on the road and usually will cool down when going slower or idling. Might just need some cooling system maintenance. I'm interested in the extra fan setup and how well it works while cruising in the desert heat. Have you done all the usual mods to increase the charging volts? Running with just one headlight should give enough power to offset the extra cooling fan. Looks like you will have to post some pics.  |
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Post by cruiser on Sept 1, 2012 11:20:02 GMT -6
Congratulations on the great price. Already looks like a fine scoot. Hope the repairs are easy and cheap. Then you can ride it like you stole it  |
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Post by cruiser on Aug 30, 2012 20:24:52 GMT -6
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LED Lights
by: cruiser - Aug 29, 2012 20:38:38 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Aug 29, 2012 20:38:38 GMT -6
That was the link I posted on 8/20. There are no more available. |
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LED Lights
by: cruiser - Aug 29, 2012 11:08:08 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Aug 29, 2012 11:08:08 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Aug 28, 2012 23:02:12 GMT -6
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