Noob from FLA By wheezy (Read 983 times)

[wheezy]

Hello, everyone. Jason from Davenport, FL checking in after lurking for a bit. Davenport is just south of Disneyworld.

I've got a Wahoo 50cc GY6(I think it's a GY6, never had to work on it), and a JCL 250a Linhai. The 50 I bought from Craigslist back in GA, and never got any paperwork with it, as GA doesn't have to register or insure a 50 or smaller. Florida does require it, and since I have no Certificate of Origin, I can't register it, so it sits in the garage.

The 250a though, is a different story. It's a 2007, originally purchased by a fellow nearby who did the PDI, changed all the fluids, then developed cancer and passed away. His parents sold it to me, and it's run great since. It's over 500 miles now, time for another oil change.

I did have one other issue with the 250a. Once I realized what that little lightning bolt was on the remote, I was amazed that something this inexpensive had a remote start. The bike started just fine, but would only start with the remote start, and would no longer work with the key/starter button. I tested and found the 15 amp fuse had blown. Somehow the remote start back fed current through the fuse and blew it. Changed the fuse and disconnected the alarm box, and everything works great. I'll get some pics for the site up later, as soon as my camera battery charges.

I'll be converting the lamps over to LED's in the future. Then, we'll see where it takes me.

I've worked on cars for years, and find the scoot a little easier to work with. I'll have to get used to carbs again, unless I convert to FI. Hopefully, I can help out now and then.

[cruiser]

Welcome to the forum, Jason. Massachusetts also requires the registration of any road vehicle with 50 or less cc's. Maybe you can score a non-functioning 50cc scoot for cheap (with papers) and use the Wahoo to fix it up?

There is a lot of info on the Linhai scoots here and JR is the acknowledged "Scooter Professor" when it comes to these scoots. Alleyoop is the carb expert. So feel free to tap our knowledge and let us know what you are doing with your scoot.

[JR]

Awesome Wheezy and welcome to the forum! Sorry about the 50cc scooter and we don't have to register them in Arknasa either except for personal property taxes.

Glad you found the issue with the 250A have one myself. You are right the remote alarm does bypass or go around the 15A fuse in fact the remote feeds off of the main 20A fuse on the starter relay. With the key switch and remote switch the scooter has two ignition switches because a electronic remote control switch is the same thing as a manual key switch just electronic that's all.

Any way we're glad to have you and here if you need us.

JR

[alleyoop]

Welcome Wheezy,
Glad to see you on the forum. Yes it is to bad about the 50 but maybe you can go to the DMV and see what can be done about it since in the previous state you did not have to register a 50cc scoot. I am sure they have some kind of go around for things like that.
Alleyoop

[wheezy]

Thanks, guys. Alley I did ask the DMV when I registered the 250, and without an MCO, they won't do anything.

Cruiser, that's a good idea. I was also thinking of selling it for what it is, then using that money to cover the LED/HID upgrade on the 250.

JR, you brought up a good point about the 20A feeding the remote. With the key switch on, and the kill switch energized, perhaps that provided the path that backfed the 15A fuse with 20A of current.

[JR]

Sept 13, 2012 6:56:42 GMT -6 wheezy said:

Thanks, guys. Alley I did ask the DMV when I registered the 250, and without an MCO, they won't do anything.

Cruiser, that's a good idea. I was also thinking of selling it for what it is, then using that money to cover the LED/HID upgrade on the 250.

JR, you brought up a good point about the 20A feeding the remote. With the key switch on, and the kill switch energized, perhaps that provided the path that backfed the 15A fuse with 20A of current.

JR, you brought up a good point about the 20A feeding the remote. With the key switch on, and the kill switch energized, perhaps that provided the path that backfed the 15A fuse with 20A of current

Not so you misunderstood me. There is no backfeed at all. The system is divided by the wiring and the red wire from the battery going to the remote and to the key switch is fed from the red 20A fused wire.

The remote is also tied to all the other circuits just like the key switch plus it has the alarm function and flashing lights. As I stated it is no different than a key switch other than it's electronically activated.

Think of it like this if you took two key switches and run the same wires to each one then either one of them would start your scooter unless on one of the switches you put a 15A fuse on the black 12Vdc output wire on the switch and that fuse blew, then only one switch would work.

The remote switch and the manual key switch are fed by the same red fused wire but the remote switch has no 15A fuse on the black 12Vdc output wire. If the 20A fuse blows then neither switch will work, no power no work.

Now the remote/alarm switch does have a little inline power fuse right by the remote alarm box which is located behind the front headlight cowling. So if it blows the remote is down and the remote can easily get unprogrammed too which causes it to act crazy.

So if your remote/alarm is working right one can use it just like the key switch and not even turn the key on but I don't recommend it.

JR

[wheezy]

Not so you misunderstood me. There is no backfeed at all. The system is divided by the wiring and the red wire from the battery going to the remote and to the key switch is fed from the red 20A fused wire.

The remote is also tied to all the other circuits just like the key switch plus it has the alarm function and flashing lights. As I stated it is no different than a key switch other than it's electronically activated.

Think of it like this if you took two key switches and run the same wires to each one then either one of them would start your scooter unless on one of the switches you put a 15A fuse on the black 12Vdc output wire on the switch and that fuse blew, then only one switch would work.

The remote switch and the manual key switch are fed by the same red fused wire but the remote switch has no 15A fuse on the black 12Vdc output wire. If the 20A fuse blows then neither switch will work, no power no work.

You're right. 'Backfeed' was the wrong term to use. The remote start will work with the key switch off. I think that once I started it with the remote, I may have turned the key switch on, maybe blowing the fuse at that time. All I know is the fuse blew after I used the remote.

Now the remote/alarm switch does have a little inline power fuse right by the remote alarm box which is located behind the front headlight cowling. So if it blows the remote is down and the remote can easily get unprogrammed too which causes it to act crazy.
JR

Mine did not for some reason. I removed the alarm box, siren, and pigtail and there was no inline fuse. The only inline I have found under the cowling feeds the radio, and it was also blown. I'm pretty sure it was blown when I bought it, as the radio never worked. I put everything back together, leaving the fuse out. I'm not claiming there is no alarm circuit fuse, it may be buried deeper into the bike. Next time I have the cowling off, I'm going to wire a fuse box into the glove compartment, so I can change them without removing body panels.

[4950cycle]

Hi all, Another noob from FL. here. I also have a JCL MP250 A. But I have not been so lucky. This thing has been nothing but a screw up. I bought it for my girlfriend at killermotorsports and in the first ten miles the ignition would go completely dead intermittenly. Of course you can't get to anything without spending a week working on it. So I stressed the wire bundle going to the ignition switch (what I could get at) it after taking the handle bar covers off so she could at least ride it for a while. Next the stalling all the time started. I here a valve adjustment will solve that. Two schools of thought on that too. But before I could even get to that task it stranded her. Would'nt start. Starter motor will spin but won't turn the motor over. Some fella in Indiana an I came to the conclusion that it was most likely the starter clutch quit after only 800 miles., Between the valves and the side case of the engine that must come off now this thing has been working my a.. off. All rear body work rear of the handle bars , seat, belly pan , exhaust has to come off . Anyway, Do you guys think our diagnosis is correct and if so once I take the left side case of the engine off is there anything else that is in front of the starter clutch ?

[JR]

Welcome to the forum 4950cycle. Since you bought this scooter a 07 from Killer and it's sit so long a good PDI is critical to get the scooter up in shape, have the same one and bought from Killer also and have over 6k trouble frre miles.

Now since you're stripping it going through it from front to back on the wires is a must along wioth changing all the fluids.

Also not trying to sound smart but have you checked the battery for a full charge? It must hold 12.7Vdc or better at all times and if not then if the battery is weak or has a dead cell then it will spin the starter but not have enough amperage to engage.

I've now had and worked with tons of people since 08 and unless yours is the first I've not seen one starter clutch go out on the linhai.

You could jump the scooter off of a car battery but be extremely careful to one make sure you have the polarity correct and DO NOT START THE CAR ENGINE. This would be a simple test to see if your battery is too weak to engage the starter.

If it is the starter clutch then start a new thread and we'll get out the engine manuals and you get the camera out and we'll get her going again while showing everyone how to do it at the same time.

JR

[4950cycle]

I'm not lieing trying to make any co. look bad JR. It's just fact. I just got real unlucky here. And yes, I've hit it with a jump starter. And by the way. This is not like a car starter system. If the starter motor will turn (in the right direction) the engine will turn with it. Its strieght drive when its going it the correct direction . Not a bendix type that has to turn fast to engauge like a car starter. Now, to sound like a dummy, I can't find the icon to start a new thread. I thought because I was so new here that I might not be allowed yet ?

[4950cycle]

And, I'll go ahead and ask it. What exactly is a PDI ? I know the P probably stands for preventitive ?

[wheezy]

PDI = Pre Delivery Inspection

As far as the new thread goes, go to the 250cc and up Classroom (Chinese). As long as you are logged in, the new thread button is at the top right of the thread list.

[alleyoop]

Yes, the starter clutch is like a direct drive and you will have to take off the side cover and flywheel and stator to get at it. It could also be the Idler Gear which is what the Starter actually turns. The Idler Gear is on a shaft and could have moved out of position and the gears are no longer meshed with the Starter Clutch gears. But once you get at it you will be able to tell if its the Starter Clutch or the Idler Gear.

The FIRST thing I would do is take the Starter off and check its little gear. It may be stripped and or the wrong starter if you bought it used and that is the way you got it. But if it was working when you bought it then I would suspect Starter Clutch and or the Idler Gear that the Starter engages.
Alleyoop