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I had the same exact problem on my rear master cylinder. One screw came out good and the other I did strip the Phillips head out. I just used a small metal chisel and small hammer on the edge of the screw and just tapped the chisel till it caught enough and it did loosen screw. I replaced with a new screw (it is metric in size) but the one I had was a bit to long so I just screwed a nut on it up tight against the head to shorten the thread part enough to work good. You may as a last resort drill the head off the existing screw enough to get cap off and take the rest of screw out with pliers. I did not anchor the screw real tite when I put them back in. You will notice a world of difference in how good the back brake will work after u change the fluid. Let us know how you do. Barnie

Way to go, looks like a good buy. Are u still going to keep the MC54? Barnie

Snchiner, you are somewhat correct on fluid change. turn the handle bars so the top of master cylinder is level. Remove the 2 screws holding the top on. carefully remove the top and the rubber boot under the top. Be very careful to not spill any brake fluid as it will ruin the paint etc that it touches. Put a small short clear pc of hose on the brake bleader and put other end in a container. pump the lever several times and hold brake on and while you have brakes applied open the bleeder and the pressure will force the fluid out but don't release brake lever until u close the bleeder. Then repeat the process until you get new clear fluid running thru the hose. Pump the master cylinder down low but not below the 2 small holes u will see in the bottom of it or u will pump air in to that line. Just keep adding new fluid as you go. One u have clear fluid you are good to go. Top off master cylinder leaving it low enough that the boot will fit back in and put top on and you got it.Back brake takes longer as the hose is much longer. I usually have my wife work the lever and I do the bleeder. Just be sure to close the bleeder B-4 you let the lever back on each time to prevent air from being sucked back in. Let us know if you need more help or have a question. We will be glad to help u out. Barnie

The brake fluid that the Chinese use is of poor quality. If you have not already done so, replace the brake fluid in both the front and rear brakes. Put new dot3 or dot4 brake fluid in. you will have to bleed the brakes to do so but that is not a difficult job just make sure you get all the old fluid out and new in. Your brakes should work much better. Barnie

Sncshriner, take a flashlite and shine thru the plastic grille in front of radiator, you will be able to see the coolant overflow tank and how much is in it there. After you drain old coolant and refill and flush and drain out that water, just close up the system and fill up with new coolant, when it looks like it is full at radiator cap, start the engine and let it idle with radiator cap OFF until it reaches normal operating temp, watch your guage so it doesn't overheat (in case the system has air in it) and after it warms up just top off the radiator and your good. The system is pressurized so the location of radiator cap should be ok. You can take an old turkey baster to suck out the old coolant from overflow tank and then fill it about 1/2 full or so. Barnie

Richard, if you have a test lite,(one with a pointer and lite bulb and about a 3ft cord with alligator clip) hook the alligator clip to a good ground and touch the contacts with the pointer etc to see if and where you have current, be sure engine is running and the work the switch back and forth to see if you can get the test lite to illuminate. I use that type tester way more than the meter to trouble shoot. If you get current in and out of switch not moving it then you know your problem is after switch, if intermitant current then its the switch. Barnie

Let there be light!! Barnie