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Post by Barnie on Jul 4, 2013 19:07:38 GMT -6
Richard, your variator looks normal, so does your torque converter at the clutch looks ok to. Is the bell on your clutch blued a little. Looks that way in the one picture. If so your clutch is running way to hot (slipping). My 257 uses the 856-23-30 belt. If you were to go with a longer belt it will ride out the the end of variator before it gets the torque converter at you clutch in high gear causing you to never reach high gear which of course would reduce your top speed. HIgh gear is reached when the belt is clear out on variator and clear in on the torque converter. MY belt is taught wheni squeeze in middle and fits fairly tight in neutral on the variator. If yours is very loose it would act like to big a belt and keep you from reaching top speed. My belt will just barely slip ok when it idles but boy does it take hold fast when u touch the throttle and works very smooth up to high gear. Hope this helps you. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 30, 2013 18:18:46 GMT -6
Richard, that rascal is acting little weird. Maybe you were getting an intermiten break in current ocassionaly. Other than that its running ok? Hope so as that pump gave u fits. Your clutch springs may be getting little weak letting the shoes jump out a little bit at a lower rpm. While u got it apart put a new belt on it to, either a Gates or bando. Mine uses an 856-23-30 of which are not sold to many places. JR's parts ref at beginning of the forum tells where to get it and they are expensive. Ride careful. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 30, 2013 15:04:34 GMT -6
Richard, as I mentioned before, my 1st guess on ur hiccup is in your belt/clutch area. I'm guessing its echoing back up giving u the illusion its in the engine, that's why its worse going down hill. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 29, 2013 19:34:23 GMT -6
Grayfox, if you would feel better trying to repair it then that is what you should do however rather than replacing springs and pads and a bell, I would just get the whole assy, will be cheaper for you and chances are you can get an actual Honda clutch for it. Many Honda parts fit my JCL body etc and many Yamaha parts fit my engine. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 28, 2013 4:38:38 GMT -6
Grayfox, what u have is typical of some clutchs but not all. If it were mine I would clean it up again and don't baby the clutch at start off but you don't need to do jack rabbit starts either. Drive it like your car or truck. the more the clutch slips at slow or real easy take offs the faster it will glaze. Before I spent any money on it I would try again. If that fails you can get just new pads for it on line and will be cheaper than a complete assy. Hope this shelps you.
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Post by Barnie on Jun 27, 2013 18:46:11 GMT -6
Fflintstone, since the engine runs great the person that had it before you has the drain plugged with something, a short pc of hose with a plug in it of somekind other wise the gas would go straight thru it. A pc of vacumn hose will work just fine as it is simply a drain for when u need it. The outlet on carb will be just a little burb on the carb bowl itself just below where your fuel line comes in. I am assuming you have the linhai 257 engine. Glad we culd help you.  Barnie |
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Post by Barnie on Jun 27, 2013 15:32:17 GMT -6
Fflintstone, they are correct. look at the bottom of ur carb bowl and you should see a small hose the dia of a vac hose running from there down thru the frame and hooking on to one end of valve. It usually has the wire hose protector on it. The screw on the other end simply unscrews and lets the carb drain out so you can service carb or for winter storage. It adjust nothing. Just hook it back up for future use and make sure that screw always stay tight. If you loose it when u crank engine gas will go straight thru carb and the engine will not start. I always open that, drain carb for winter storage, that way the needle valve wont stick in the closed position when u try and restart in spring. It works great.  Barnie |
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JSD250T-2
by: Barnie - Jun 26, 2013 20:01:16 GMT -6
Post by Barnie on Jun 26, 2013 20:01:16 GMT -6
Jzander, I assume you bought this new and if so from a dealer since you test rode it. With the problems you have described would the dealer not correct the problems for you or was it the case of you bought it now its yours. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 24, 2013 18:56:33 GMT -6
Richard, that's great. I suspected your pump was bad from start and the dirt in carb didn't help either. Next time u fill the gas tank, put about 3 oz seafoam in the tank (1 oz per gal) and that will further clean ur fuel system and will clean it relatively fast. Where is Vintondale Pa, what part of state. I live in North Central Ohio. Good to hear your back on road. Barnie p |
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Post by Barnie on Jun 23, 2013 18:59:51 GMT -6
Richard, hey sounding better and better. Question, how steep and long are the hills or hill that gives you trouble. When running at wot and the engine under load, its not putting out much vacumn. If you have a long haul at wot the vac to the pump will be minimal until you go back to normal throttle and speed and it would be possible for the pump to briefly not put out any fuel but then engine will still run on what is in the carb bowl until that's gone. If your hill is longer than whats in the carb bowl you would have the problems you have been having. Then it takes a little cranking for the vacumn/pump to fill the carb before it will start again. If it runs fine other than the hills, you may have to go to elec pump like I has to. Experiment a little Monday to see what it takes on the hill to keep it running. You can also change ur a/f setting a little more to see if that will help. Barnie |
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Post by Barnie on Jun 22, 2013 11:55:44 GMT -6
Richard, the needle on the diaphram is what runs ur main jet which is where ur upper portion of the throttle and speed comes from. If u got to 60-65 easy I would say your diaphram and needle and main are working ok. You may be losing just a little vac due to normal wear etc and being just enough to make it sputter at wot up a hill a time or to but not stop. Try the hill at less that wide open say 50-55mph and see what happens. Your getting there!! Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 22, 2013 11:30:31 GMT -6
Richard, I wuld turn the a/f screw in to 2 to 2 1/2 and try that. 3 in close to max open with out falling out. Glad to hear she is up and running. I would try riding normal for a bit and see how she does. IF THE DIAPHRAM was bad it would not run good if at all. Barnie |
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Post by Barnie on Jun 21, 2013 18:56:34 GMT -6
Richard, lets cross our fingers. When u test ride it, if it were to shut off at wot up ur hill, with out trying to recrank or restart it open the screw on the carb bowl drain hose and see if any gas comes out. If none that would mean still a loss of fuel delivery. You have to open the screw tho without cranking engine. I'm going to bet it runs ok. Barnie |
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Post by Barnie on Jun 18, 2013 12:56:16 GMT -6
Richard, JR, Alley, I am in total agreement with JR on the pump route. Let us know how u do on that Richard. Barnie
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Post by Barnie on Jun 18, 2013 6:21:40 GMT -6
Richard, u don't need to take carb off to see what alley is talking about. just loosen air box and move it back enough and use a small inspection mirror and small flashlite to see in carb to see it it is there. Did you buy this new or used and if new has this problem persisted from the start. From what u have replaced and ur steady maintenance this thing shuld run like a charm. With lots of care these are great scoots. Have u tried running it on an aalternative gravity flow fuel tank. That's about the only way u can tell with out buying a lot of parts u may not need if the engine and carb are ok. You did say that the scoot ran for a long time ok with wot being the bad main issue right? I just lean toward ur pump is just not performing and may never has. JR--what do u think. I am thinking either not enough vacumn from intake to pump (o-ring on eng side of intake or poss head gasket leaking little or valves not seating due to normal wear etc) or just a bad pump. Keep the faith Richard!! Barnie h |
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