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Back to square one...

I had idled it and ran it around the house for a few following the repair, then today I had to get to work asap and I rode it at WOT for 25 minutes.

the oil all shot out again and it started stalling, then after my 11 hour shift, it wouldnt start at all but acted like it wanted to.

It had spark, had gas, ... meh.

No idea what to do at this point. Thinking about pushing the damn thing into a ditch.

scooters a longbo/ sunl adventure 1996

I have a harness with electrical issues in the bike and a pulled harness from a salvaged unit on hand.

The harnesses are identical except the salvage harness has an additional plug for an alarm system and from what I've been told, I need to disable this for the bike to run as leaving it open keeps the ignition killed.

Does anyone know which wires need to be grounded and/or wired into each other to make this swap happen?

I can leave pictures of both harnesses if needed. I dont have access to the alarm from the salvaged bike as the owner already parted that out to someone else.

Chinese parts mismatched? NEVER!
lol

I was kind of thinking along those lines too after sitting down and double checking the lines while taking pictures and reading over the posts.

Thank you for the in depth schematics and explanation too - these went a long way towards helping me understand the whole ac/dc thing on these bikes.

The larger dc cdi was never used, I just had it packed away since it wouldnt fit my plugs.

I think I will leave the 8 pole in as it did run the bike fine until the bike lost all its oil.

I'm focusing on getting the top end tight, then I"ll come back to switching out the harness and troubleshooting from there if needed.

Thank you again.

So basically just rings then? Thanks for the input.

I kinda figured that would be the go to issue. Thankfully the rings and new piston wont take long to get here and I can knock this issue down.

I'm also hoping that the overheating couldn't have cause too much damage, but we will see I suppose.

Is it possible to tell if a stator that has been setup for dc by its wiring then?

I assume this means the red/black wire will be missing and the harness (if the bike is setup for dc headlights) will have a feed from the battery directly to the cdi?

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Today I followed up on a craigslist post and was able to strip parts off an old longbo similar to mine ( pulled a solid looking 6 pole stator, its cover, and cdi off the bike as well as its main wiring harness) for cheap.

He didnt have a rectifier, so still planning on using my 5 pin one.

These posts all seem to indicate that the stator issue shouldn't be the cause of the bike not running as long as its putting out the correct power to the cdi to fire off the coil and if the timing is correct from the pickup.

Is that correct?

I have charged the battery as well and I am about to head out to the bike to see if I can get it running enough to get home where I can actually do work on it.


I'll leave the rectifier unplugged, as well as the 3 wires from the stator, since you say these arent needed for running. I have all LED taillights and turn signals, so hopefully that wont drain the battery in 20 minutes.



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update
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I got a ride out to the bike, put the battery in with a new cdi and after a few moments it fired up and I got half way home before it died again - oddly.

It slowly looses power then dies, not choking out or anything, and after looking at the engine case it seems it has pushed all the oil out of the valve cover and overheated.

It seems I have a much more problematic issue than lights to deal with first.

I hadnt had any issues like this in a while and its setup with a long hose and catch can from the valve cover.

I just replaced the head and spent an entire day checking the timing and valve clearances before these electrical issues came up.

Somedays you just cant cut a break.

I also found the cdi that had come with the new engine ( all this stuff was in an old box in storage) and it is larger and has tinier pins spaced differently than my other ones.

I need to keep track of my repairs better, but even without double checking.

I'm going to backtrack and stick the 6 pole I just pulled into it and just order a new 4 pin rectifier.

I have a feeling with all the oil blowing out and the scooter overheating, that I may be looking at more damage than I can handle ( begging rides from co-workers only goes on for so long before you become a pariah,

I'm having issues getting out to the bike to tow it, hopefully I'll have it in hand by tomorrow.

I'll pull out the harness and start looking for shorts, as well as putting that 5 pin rectifier back in (if it doesnt matter, ill use what I have to cut shipping delays down).

I think I'm just confusing myself more, and I see that you dont think the stator is an issue, but just to clarify, if the stator plugs up correctly with exact matches on the wiring, am I to understand that either a. it doesnt matter if the stator has a floating ground? or B. no 8 pole stators have floating grounds?

In re to:




I ask because I've been researching in my idle time to try to understand my issue more.

Ive run across tons of pages devoted to mods to 11 pole dc run headlights with talk about floating the ground needed on stators to get dc to the headlights.

I just want to make sure that it isnt necessary to pull the new stator out to check for this floating ground if I dont have to.

I'd like to start being able to check off things from the troubleshooting list if possible and I still dont have a firm idea of whats going on atm - if the stator can be ignored and I just need to focus on having an "ac cdi" that functions, a good coil, good 4 or 5 pin rectifier, a good battery, and no shorts in the harness.

This seems to be the checklist as I understand it at least.

Good times. I love searching for shorts...

Ok then. The engine itself is definitely grounded both above the stator as you described and on the framing just before the battery; these are the first two things I look at when any electrical issue comes up and I remember checking them after the lights blew, in addition to checking the fuse just to make sure it didnt go.

I have a camera as well and I can post pics once I manage to get a hold of the bike.

Just wondering though, how could a wiring issue push so many volts through to the headlights and why would it let me drive for nearly half an hour before suddenly dying on me?; would that indicate the cdi or coil being damaged?