Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 28, 2012 14:16:15 GMT -6
Seems my post didnt take.
Put old muffler back on - sounds louder than it did way back when (so quiet it sounded like a whisper) - no ideas on that except that maybe the gasket or exhaust studs are loosening again. meh
Rode and it had power, sounded fine except at wot every 6-8 sec or so theres a dead spot for 1 sec and it keeps repeating.
Any ideas on this?
Out of time for today, but still need to get it right.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 27, 2012 20:38:55 GMT -6
Well, the 120 was chugging when I let off the throttle, but you said that plug looked lean, so i went back to the 125.
The 125 though, almost immediately cause backfiring on deceleration and some chugging still.
Ive spent all afternoon and into the evening taking the carb apart and tweaking the needle and the float to try to get good settings, with no real good result so far.
The backfire seems to be gone, but then again with the bogging towards top, I got frustrated and took it right home only a few minutes into the test ride - could still be there I suppose.
The uni is oiled - never ran it unoiled. Ill oil it again tomorrow just to be certain its coated.
Im not certain if I should get a new carb to make sure im not dealing with anything that might be broken with this one , or if I should go back to the stock muffler, or both.
I know in the past that the muffler to exhaust port bolts have come loose and caused lean conditions leading to two of my top end failures, so I made a ride on the outside of both bolts a while back and tie piano wire between the two bolts so they wont back off - cant figure another way around that issue.
Ill take thee wire off and check again tomorrow to see if they backed out - could be an issue too; sometimes I wonder about the design on these gy6's...
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 27, 2012 17:29:22 GMT -6
Alley, dont have anything between the 120 and the 125 range - are you saying I should pick up a 124?
I played with it until I lost all daylight - bike no longer backfires but bogging is bad at top end and almost gone on low to mid now.
Fix one, break another - damn.
I have one last trick in that I have an old stock muffler laying around somewhere and may toss that on instead of the free flow one and maybe I can get that 120 or 114 to do the trick again afterwards.
If that doesnt work, I'm not really sure where to go from here.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 27, 2012 16:34:29 GMT -6
I put the 125 back in and to started off trying to fix the bogging by adj the needle to lean it up.
That didnt work so well,as the bike bogged still and now still backfire on deceleration.
I put the needle back and its doing the same thing.
Ive adjusted the float and the needle several times and nothing I do can fix the backfiring.
Im beginning to think this issue isnt related to the carb - checked the intake manifold and shows no cracks or suggestions of failure.
I looked at the exhaust studs ( too hot to check by hand) but they dont look backed out, all though they could be I suppose.
Any ideas?
Im lost on this one and Ive already missed a weeks worth of work spending days at a time trying to fix this.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 27, 2012 15:11:00 GMT -6
I kind of suspected this. I ran it out around the area a bit and after a few i was noticing that the gargling on letting loose of the throttle turns into a series of 2-3 crackle/pops.
I have a 125, but when I had that in I was bogging about 1/3 of the way through throttle - around 35mph, and it would go away and run fine afterwards, but I figured the bogging ment it was too rich...
This scooter is driving me nuts.
Im going back to the 125 (i dont have anything between 121-124) and I'll just have to figure out the bogging situation or ignore it I suppose; anythings better than doing another top end.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 27, 2012 12:54:35 GMT -6
OK, got a couple jets in and found out I had to do another repair. It seems my old problem was 2 part - not only was my main jet too small, but I had a torn air cut valve (damn thing was split almost all the way around the base). Im still trying to find my sweet spot on the jets, but after adjusting a bunch and using a 120 main jet atm, this is what the plug looks like:   Im not even going to say I have any experience with plug chops, this being my first try, but from what I am reading, this should be about the right look - yes? The bike idles fine and runs through its range good; the only issue still left is a slight chugging/sputtering when I completely release throttle and go to an idle. Its not severe, but its there. Can I get a comment on what that might be and if I am correct in having found my ideal jet size according to the plug pics? Thanks again guys - and once I have this gremlin down Im going to need to bug ya again for changing gears, lol. |
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 22, 2012 12:20:56 GMT -6
Cleaned and rebuilt my carb today - running in bike.
For the first time ever, when adjusting the idle air screw all the way in the bike continued to run instead of choking out.
What does this signify? What condition will it cause on the bike?
Lean?
Rich?
Stalling later?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 22, 2012 0:04:19 GMT -6
Thanks alley. I didnt see the size comment up above. I just pulled apart and cleaned the carb today and found a vacuum line that had been torn - so fixing that and tomorrow I should be running at least and able to do a plug chop to see where I am at.
Hoping main jets arent too hard to find locally as well, so I dont have to order and wait on one.
BTW: whats a good accurate resource for changing gears? I've only been into the final gears once before and it looked like they were pressed on, so thinking I may need some insight into how to do this job without a machine shop if possible.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 20, 2012 11:48:53 GMT -6
Thanks for the input on that.
I tried to adjust the carb myself yesterday and failed to where it wont run at all - seeing a lot of what looks like sand or something in there anyways, so I'm stuck at either cleaning the carb and trying to readjust correctly or just buying a new one if I can find one cheap enough.
Still waiting on ideas for a proper main jet size too while I deal with these other problems because in the end, I will still need to tackle that.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 18, 2012 13:49:22 GMT -6
While I am waiting on a reply to the above (and please dont hijack the thread btw), I realized that the last time I played with the carb, I had help from a friend who adjusted the float.
I have no idea how to do this myself, and the friend is no longer around, but having googled a bit, I can see that a poorly adjusted float would cause issues too - problem is, I dont really understand the various posts and pages that try to describe how to adjust these.
Anyone familiar with it? I'm trying to get as many variables out of the way as possible.
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Post by godfeast on Oct 18, 2012 12:09:51 GMT -6
This scoot doesnt have a tach, so I have no way of knowing exactly ( but I've been a commercial driver for years and I can tell that its probably pushing itself to the limit just from listening). I4 is a disaster for everyone ( worst highway in the state with the worst drivers in the nation - speeds set at 65 but 80+ is the usual. I ride as close as I can get to 65, which is why I tweaked to a uni and open exhaust, with high rollers in the first place.) It's a worse case scenario in any situation, and if I had a financial choice, I'd never even consider taking a scooter on that highway - pretty much risking my life every day, but we do what we have to in order to get by. I had consider gearing, but from what I had read, if I am not using a big bore then I wont have power to make use of the gearing and I'd just end up losing my top end and becoming an ornament on a semi's front grill.  Is this wrong? If so, then I may start looking around for a gear set. |
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Post by godfeast on Oct 18, 2012 11:42:56 GMT -6
Ive had a few issues with my 150cc longbo/sunl adventure over the past few years, but it mostly boils down to me frying my top end via running lean.
I've replaced the top end/engine 5 times in 2 years, and I'd really like to figure this out before I end up doing it again.
The situation:
Scooter is my only ride to and from work.
Work is 20 minutes away down I4 - scooter has to run at wot the whole way and back 8-10 hours later x5 a week.
I cant afford another ride - wish I'd bought a 250cc or a motorcycle way back when I had cash, but at this point, i'm barely getting by.
I just replaced the top end a couple months ago and I had been begging rides (not happening anymore), so the scooter just got out of breaking in at about 250 miles, but had been blowing oil and showing all the signs of running lean again despite adjusting valves, checking exhaust mounting, checking intake mount, and playing with the idle adjust on the side of the carb.
I decided to buy another top end (knowing what to expect) and put it together yesterday. The second ring had frozen up in the piston as expected, but no other real damage done.
I removed the valves, de-carboned the head, lapped valves, and replaced all gaskets with new ones.
The carb in place had been upgraded from 107 main jet to 114 right after the last head blew on me. I also adjusted the needle as far as it would go for richness.
The bike has a uni filter setup and a "free flowing exhaust" I bought off a guy back a while ago ( he had opened it up and broken off the pipe just inside the muffler itself then riveted it back together).
I live in orlando florida, so its run at seas level, no real hills, and temps are typically in the 80's on nearly every day of the year (some nights falling into 60's but not often).
In this scenario, what size main jet would you think I should run?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Sept 18, 2012 16:21:04 GMT -6
The harness is in and the bike lives again.
The only issue atm is that the rear tail light only comes on when the brake handles are pulled - its not on with bike running as it should be and I have an LED light in there, so I have to assume its a wiring issue.
I am no good at schematics, but trying to figure out which wires in the tail harness are the ones responsible for running the taillight low beams when the engine is on.
What would be the usual color of these ? Is it the yellow that turns brown?[\strike]
The short evidently fried the LED Somehow - bikes fully functional.
TY all for the help.
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Post by godfeast on Sept 13, 2012 14:57:00 GMT -6
I think im going to switch out the r/r as well just in case when I stick the harness back in later.
I believe this should cover all my bases, and hopefully this ordeal of mine will help anyone wanting to put in an alarm or remove one.
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Post by godfeast on Sept 13, 2012 14:34:33 GMT -6
I decided to stop being frustrated and to actually do what I should have done from the start - I have the unique opportunity of owning both alarmed and non alarmed harnesses from the same kind of scooter, so I striped both down and started taking pictures and slowly identifying wiring paths. I am absolutely no good at reading schematics - if anyone can point me to a site that explains in simple steps how to read one, I would really appreciate that,. I found the following out about the harnesses: 1. the alarm plug has the following color wires in a 9 pronged plug and looking at it from a view that has the top as the snap in piece for securing plug and starting at top left : a. green b. red - c. black with white stripe next row starting at left d. empty e. red with yellow stripe f. brown with white stripe ( attaches to bayonet end and dont have alarm, so no idea what that goes to). next row starting at left g. black h. baby blue i. orange All of these leads attached to a similar colored wire in the harness body that feeds the same color wire going to different plugs and thus, I simply snipped off the alarm plug. The ignition black/white line attaches via a bayonet plug to the same junction as the alarm plug on a black/white wire in the harness, but on the non alarmed harness, it is simply hard attached to same place. This leaves only one difference in the harnesses from alarmed to non alarmed that I identified: IN RE: two plugs that attach up into the instrument panels, dash, switches, etc... The larger of the two plugs on the non alarmed harness has an empty spot at the top right wire spot, but on the alarmed harness it has a green ground wire. This green ground wire on the non alarmed harness attaches to the smaller plug instead but on the alarmed harness this spot on the smaller plug is a red power lead. This red power lead doesnt exist at all on the non alarmed harness. I simply cut off the red lead and moved the green ground wire from the larger plug to the now vacant spot on the small plug. The harnesses are now exactly the same in all respects. alarmed harness before modification (at dash plugs)  non alarmed harness dash plugs  |
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