Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 30, 2012 22:54:36 GMT -6
Yeah, I own a voltmeter, test light, jumpers, etc... I'm just not that good at using them.  Spent all night frankensteining together a instrument cluster just to tighten things up and make sure I know I have no shorts. Working on harness again, then taillight harness tomorrow - just taking the whole week off and going to try to get this done right hopefully. What are all the things that could cause an RR to put out too much voltage (and thus shunt a bunch of it to ground)? Three RR's and all do the same thing, so I'm wondering now. ======================================= I also ran into an odd thing: 1. Grabbed a instrument dash out of a pile of junk ones at the scooter shop because it looked similar and I needed a hazard button anyways. This has an in dash mechanical rpm gauge though and , from what I can see without tearing it apart, 3 wires - black, green, and yellow/black running to it. I obviously cant use it at the moment, but would you or anyone else, happen to know what this likely hooks to and if I can grab the part and make it work on mine? |
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Post by godfeast on Nov 30, 2012 15:49:35 GMT -6
I had a new RR put in and had a gently used one as backup - switched between the old one and these other two with no variation in the issue.
I just finished pulling the harness and instrument cluster off the scoot. Looking for obvious shorts and crimps before sticking it back on.
Lost another dAY off work too as when I went to leave, I noticed that both my tailights and headlights were no longer working at all and the fuse was still ok.
good times.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 30, 2012 12:36:40 GMT -6
AS per my other post, I seem to be burning through stators.
I just paid to replace one and bike runs fine now, but the headlights are dim to the point of almost being off UNLESS I apply the brakes, then they brighten right up.
The dash lights also seem to be gone, but then again I've had issues with them in the past.
I did have current going into the ground at the stator - checking to see if its there still, but while at the shop they replaced the old RR, so I'm not sure where to start looking electrically speaking.
I need to go to work today (lost two days already and half my last paycheck on mechanic) so I need ideas of where to start looking tomorrow.
I could really use a hand - such as an idea of what wires to start tracing.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 30, 2012 12:33:03 GMT -6
Yeah stator was bad - found out because I gave up and took it into a shop and 140.00 later it runs, but with a new issue.
will make a new post for that.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 28, 2012 14:54:05 GMT -6
OK, went out the other night to go home from work and the scooter didnt fire up.
NO SPARK
I replaced stator, coil, and cdi.
NO SPARK STILL
I then tore it apart today and still cannot get it to spark ( I removed the black+white wire from cdi to take the kill switch out of the equation and ground the green wire to the frame ).
I did notice that theres a slight bit of current running from the ground wiring on the harness to the red+yellow wire that comes from the starter solenoid... Found that out when I removed the ground wire from the stator cover and it sparked when it came into contact with the engine body.
This isnt blowing my fuse, but is it causing no spark? I have no clue.
Anyone know?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 10, 2012 22:57:12 GMT -6
Yeah, but now ill also buy a 115mm pulley face by itself off ebay to replace the one I have with the broken fin.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 10, 2012 12:44:11 GMT -6
I see.
I'd have to take my cvt cover off again to double check, but do I read this to say that, in general, stock variators are made in such a way that adding a larger face will allow further travel on the belt with the proper weights?
I broke a fin off my variator the other day anyway, so I was wondering if buying the larger face would make a difference (why I am posting about this now rather than after I do the gearing).
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 10, 2012 2:03:23 GMT -6
alley - waiting on gearing still, but looking at my variator while I am at it.
I noticed that the belt isnt moving into the last 1/2 inch of the variator face, so thinking I need to upgrade my stock 14 gram wieghts, but wondering if I can I just buy a 115mm variator face off ebay with some heavier weights and stick it on the old variator body I have?
Ive looked at websites trying to explain how it works exactly, but its unclear if the belt is pinched the whole way by both sides of the variator, or if at the last portion of outward travel, its just rubbing against the outer variator face.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 8, 2012 10:41:24 GMT -6
I couldnt get to a slide hammer and bearing puller today, so in order to get bike running again, I'm trying the torch thing to heat them out.
I cant say I'm not nervous - last thing I wanted to do is take a hot flame to a machine that constantly leaks oil and gas all over itself. MEH
Ill look into the gear change next week, but thanks for pointing me in the way alley.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 7, 2012 22:41:11 GMT -6
Im looking around, but wondering if you know of anyplace that sells a gy6 counter shaft gear of that size already on the shaft?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Nov 7, 2012 16:33:17 GMT -6
One thing down, another to go:
Found out one of the screws to the final gear box had come out and all the fluid drained. Bearings all are shot.
I have a donor gy6 with solid gearbox cover and even good bearings inside - need to know how to remove and place these in the other engine without damaging the bearings.
Are these just heated and popped out or is a special puller used?
Also, we were talking about changing the gearing on this bike in another thread - which of the gears gets swapped out in doing that?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 31, 2012 23:03:35 GMT -6
I thought it looked a little on the rich side already (am I wrong again alley?) - thats a chop after wot riding for 3 minutes - wouldn't that screw up my idle again do you think, or could I compensate with the needle since Im already at the half way point (only two slots to move up)?
Just want to make sure before I place an order tomorrow.
placed an order for a 122.5 (no 122 it seems).
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 31, 2012 17:00:17 GMT -6
OK, playing with it a bit more. 1. stock muffler now on and tight without leaks 2. found a slightly smaller idle jet and put it on (unknown size, but a hair smaller than what was in it - pulled from another junk carb). 3. Needle put at half way point 4. Float adjusted to slightly lean - not by much, maybe a half mm from where it should be. 5. 120 left in as main jet Seems to be running fine - no backfire, muffler a bit loud than I recalled still, but no obvious issues. No oil spewing and top end is now out of break in.    verdict? |
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Oct 29, 2012 12:46:17 GMT -6
I decided to go with my gut feeling that keeping a 125 in an engine with A now more restrictive muffler and a highly overoiled uni filter (lol) wasnt a good idea.
I went back down to my 114 and it seemed to runs pretty decently - still a bit of a backfire on decelleration (not much but there), so I adjusted the needle as rich as possible and that still hasnt really solved it.
I took it for a short wot spin and it immediately started to backfire loudly and died a few times. Took it home and putting a 120 back in
More confused than ever.
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Post by godfeast on Oct 28, 2012 23:59:07 GMT -6
nope. It just lost power like i had let off the throttle for a brief instant then right back to running fine - no weird sounds or anything else.
I'm still not sure the muffler sounds right - its a bit odd. Ill try to listen harder tomorrow and describe it better.
Do you think running rich would cause such a short loss of power at wot?
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