Junior
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Post by godfeast on Dec 7, 2012 0:31:55 GMT -6
Didnt really expect hostility, and not sure where that came from...but I was hoping for a basic explanation from someone who would know, like JR or something, but the above helps a little.
TY for the post justbuggin2.
I'm downloading a bunch of ebooks on electronics and trying to figure this stuff out on my own as well - its just that everything I've delt with so far in electronics involves a + or - line going into something, getting altered, and then coming out a different line.
The fact that the RR has this yellow feed going into it and then somehow regulates the length of it without having to pass it through as another wire simply confuses me - the above doesnt make it 100% clear, but the post above gives me more to go on.
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Post by godfeast on Dec 6, 2012 18:44:47 GMT -6
But how does it work ?
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Post by godfeast on Dec 6, 2012 17:18:55 GMT -6
I've been reworking my harness and reviewing quite a few schematics, but my understanding of electronics is still developing, so I have a quick question.
I see that testing the ac voltage on the yellow wire coming from the stator, that it is in the high 30's and from everything I read, would blow out any lights or such hooked directly to it.
I understand that the RR regulates the voltage down to an acceptable range for the electronics to work.
In my mind, to do that the yellow would feed through the RR and then come out on one of the other pins.
I'm confused that it's obviously not the case as schematics and wiring seems to show electronics hooking into the yellow line all along its length prior to hitting the RR.
Does this mean that somehow the RR regulates the yellow power line from the stator just by being plugged into it?
How does this work?
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Post by godfeast on Dec 4, 2012 16:56:41 GMT -6
I didnt test wire switching as I found that if I tested the stator at the end of its own connection, I got readings that are exactly as they are supposed to be, but when testing at the other end (having reconnected harness) of the plug, I was getting no readings at all (unhooked from RR), so its obviously a break in the harness that I didnt see and somehow missed when testing. Taking harness out and rewiring everything tomorrow all day... again. Anyone wanna trade me a vulcan 750cc or similiar motorcycle for this scooter?
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Dec 3, 2012 23:42:57 GMT -6
Thanks. I rewired the headlights and then noticed that when the engine was revving, my dash lights grew brighter...ughhhh.
oh, and yeah, I've watched that video a few times.
Testing in the morning again as suggested.
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Post by godfeast on Dec 3, 2012 15:27:02 GMT -6
It didnt seem to have made a difference.
I'm about to do what you suggested because without headlights attached both brake light and dash lights work.
With headlights attached now, the dash lights and running lights dim and only one headlight lamp will operate at a time.
I have to still have a short somewhere, but I'm wondering if just rewiring the headlights themselves might be the most time effective solution.
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Post by godfeast on Dec 3, 2012 14:05:50 GMT -6
OK, so havent done what you asked...yet. sorry. Itgot dark and I started doing more online research on this - cant believe how many other people have similiar issues with these scooters, but almost none get resolved or at least they dont post findings. I did find an old thread (here I think) that had a post by "admin" where he speculates that it is likely a short between red+yellow or one of the two and a ground and that said short is most likely occurring around the taillight assembly since he read a schematic that indicated that as the most likely place for red+yellow to meet. I had to go out and buy a new taillight bulb (yes, it had blown the running light filament) and when doing so I found A short (possibly "the" short) at the area just past the harness connection going under the gas tank to the taillights. It seems the yellow turns to brown and then splits into two wires and at that location they just put a thin piece of electrical tape around the solder and that sits crunched under a metal bracket. looks like the electrical tape got old and oily (probably from exhaust or something) and slipped down, thus exposing the solder to the metal bracket and then grounding out through the frame (and gas tank - good times). I am replacing parts and will retest as is, then if problem still exists, will do as you asked.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Dec 2, 2012 17:07:24 GMT -6
So, take the red and white wires out of the plug that goes to the RR and switch them, then test?
In or out of RR?
Or did you just mean to stick the plug into the RR like that, put the headlight connection on and see what happens?
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Post by godfeast on Dec 2, 2012 16:42:01 GMT -6
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Post by godfeast on Dec 2, 2012 16:27:12 GMT -6
gotcha, that would be :
BLUE YELLOW WHITE
*-----------*-----------*
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Post by godfeast on Dec 2, 2012 16:14:52 GMT -6
recheck the post above - I was mid edit when you posted.
TY
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Post by godfeast on Dec 2, 2012 15:32:02 GMT -6
Bike had no spark, took it to a mechanic who got me for 150.00 bucks I didnt have and changed out the stator and the RR, which got me spark and running, but I noticed that my headlights were dim unless brakes were applied, but I ran home like this since they wanted more to troubleshoot this problem.
I hadnt had this issue before, and on the way home the running taillight and headlights went all the way out and wouldnt change if brakes applied ( ASSUME I BLEW THE RUNNING LIGHT FILAMENT IN THE TAILLIGHT BU HAVENT CHECKED YET).
... So I stripped off the harness and checked my wiring then replaced connections that looked bad, plus I went ahead and added a ground to the headlights.
Issue remains and I have no tail light or headlights.
I have three RR's (one just bought two days ago at the scooter shop) - checked them all and all had same results:
RR attached (plugged in) and bike running testing for ac volts at plug connection =
1. white 24v
2. Yellow 12v
3. red 1v
plugged testing at connector and running (dc)=
1. white 10v
2. red 13v
3. yellow 10v
Unplugged and testing running =
nothing except 12v DC at red and 37V ac at white
Battery was just charged at auto parts store and has full 12v.
Can anything else be wrong other than a bad RR at this point?
********** I had a buddy with a similar bike who stopped by a minute ago and we swapped out headlight covers - his worked on mine with decent lighting BUT they still got brighter when brakes applied. ****************
I have to presume that I've blown both all my headlights out and taillight partially ( he didnt want me putting my headlights on his and I didnt press the point, so I dont know if they'd work on another bike, but doesnt seem likely).
Headlight wiring is blue, green, white, yellow.
I also noticed that when headlights (either) were pugged in the dash lights would go out only to come back on when headlights removed.
I did just thoroughly g over the instrument cluster wiring last night too - spent over 2 hours on it, but I couldve always screwed something up I suppose.
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Junior
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Post by godfeast on Dec 1, 2012 19:42:19 GMT -6
So the final answer is likely for the scooter schematics I've read - always drawn over a set of lines. TY!
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Post by godfeast on Dec 1, 2012 1:20:33 GMT -6
Dont know. The harness and various wirings are sitting on the floor of my living room atm, making a determination impossible. - Sometime tomorrow I'll get it running and test in bike again. I just got really pissy that I spent a week rewiring my harness a few months ago and then came down with some sort of ground issue. I get frustrated sometimes. lol
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Post by godfeast on Nov 30, 2012 23:27:38 GMT -6
I'm not that great at reading schematics and after googling for an hour, I still cant figure out what this symbol on many scooter schematics actually denotes.
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