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I've been running my scooter now for a couple months with the electrical issue you all tried to help me on, and which I simply couldnt fix.

I ned the bike for work, so I've been using two lantern lights (6v battery operated) to see at night and running a red led to the rear from the battery.

This didnt go over so well with the cops who pulled me over last night and threatened to impound the scooter.

Fixing the underlying problem is too much for me to be able to do evidently and I need this bike to get to work, so...

I was wondering if I can go to walmart and buy one of those 55w halogen "fog/driving" accessory lights and run it with a toggle switch and fuse directly to ground and the positive battery terminal without issue.

I can leave the red led hooked up ( not much draw ) for my taillights, but not sure if I should just add another set of lights for braking or not ( this being the least of my issues as I'm pretty sure they cant impound for broken brake lights alone).

Has anyone done this before?

I put everything back together and issue is still there.

With new RR in place im getting wot reading of about 40v ac on yellow - i switched the yellow and white leads at the rr and it stayed at a stable 6v ac, but didnt go up at wot - with it the other way im getting the full 40v ac on yellow.

With it this way, as soon as I plug in the llights the ac voltage drops on yellow to 0 and the lights dont work at all.

I also found that the enricher was shorting yellow to ground - when plugged in I was getting no reading on yellow at all ( stator putting out, but unless enricher unplugged, yellow went to 0 volts ac and showed a direct connection to ground).

Not sure what damage this mustve caused, but hopefully the new rr isnt already shot from just running a few minutes with this issue in place.


This is getting to be a bit much in lost time and wasted money at this point. I may not even bother much more.

If anyone has a harness set for these bikes to sell cheaply, send me a pm.

Im going to reverify this then, because I did check yesterday and both white and yellow leads showed no ground connection to the engine.

Would that not indicate a floating ground and thus a dc only stator? Or maybe a damaged one I suppose.

**** reverified testing the three lines from stator (green,yellow,white)*****

Stator green ground wire grounds to engine

Neither yellow or white grounds to the engine

yellow and white ground to each other

stator ground doesnt ground to either white or yellow

CONCLUSION ?

I went down to the scooter store and got them to give me an exact duplicate of my original RR.

Thunderstorms all day around Orlando have kept me from putting it in and testing further.

If 8 dc pole stators arent normally marketed, that would possibly make things easier to diagnose - I did find a site that said you could check to see if the stator had an engine ground through yellow or white wiring to determine if it was floated and I did check but couldnt find one.

I cant find the site again to reverify if I did it correctly - just put a meter to engine case and to each wire and couldnt get a reading to show ground, but then again maybe I misread what to do. Meh.

I'm not sure if Im just not being understood or if my posts are too winded to be read accurately, so ill try to explain again:



I've assumed this is the case in all scooters, but just in case mines an odd one:

my scooter has three parts to the harnesses - a rear harness contained within the taillight assembly, an instrument panel harness contained within the top of the bike around the handlebars, and a main harness that runs the length of the bike.

These switches we are discussing are all on the instrument panel harness, as I am sure you know.

This was disconnected when the tests were done - there were no turn signal switches, no emergency flasher switches, no kill switch, no horn switch, no dash lights, no head lights ( or taillights since that rear harness was disconnected too) - there were no switches or lights of any kind at all involved in this circuit when I tested and found ac on orange, light blue, y/g wires.

The main harness was in the bike connected ONLY TO THOSE COMPONENTS absolutely needed to run the bike, which are : RR, ignition switch, starter solenoid, enricher on carb, battery, stator, cdi, starter.

I used a paper clip to jump the main harness plug with what would have been the brake switch connection ( I couldnt figure out another way to get bike to start when I used the kick start) and then removed after it started.

I then tested THE PLUG at the far end of the harness where the taillight connects - and I got these values on the orange, l.blue, , y/g, and y wires.

This is what has confused me for two days straight after assuming it had to be the main harness and finding that it was not.

I've simply come to the conclusion that the ignition switch and/or RR are both shorting internally ( the black wire feeding the orange and l.blue inside the key switch was a possibility I thought about on looking at the schematic).

Its either that or somehow the entire bike frame is being charged and im reading voltage from the ground wire itself.

I suppose this is just not an issue thats commonly run into.

My luck...

Anyone have an idea on this? The short is absolutely not in the harness.

The voltages were read at taillight connector of main harness detached from the taillight harness and instrument, headlight harnesses.

Which component could cause this? I'm still so so on reading schematics, but I just dont see how the light blue or orange couldve gotten power at all, little less the y/g.

Is it possible that the RR somehow fed ac along the red power line through the solenoid and into the y/g line?

That's the only physical connection I can possibly see for tracing an ac voltage flow onto this wire.