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MEH. Thanks though.

I replaced RR today and four hours later the scooters in pieces all over the front of my condo ( looking forward to a nasty letter, lol) and I still have ac at both the brown and y/grn wires before taillight harness and with disconnecting the handlebar switches.

Headlights are getting nearly no voltage and the RR is getting hotter than it should - hotter still if brake switches are plugged in and brakes activated.

I am so in over my head with this - I actually made it to work last night by buying a pair of walmart 6volt lanterns and duck taping them to either side of my front, then yanking the taillight cover off and duck taping it onto the front of a mag light, then to the rear of the bike.

I made it to work, but im surprised I didnt get pulled over.

Frustration is not a suitable word for this.

rectifiers are shot ( both operational new one and my backup) - the "new" one is putting out no voltage on the yellow line and my old "baCKUP" RR is putting out a full 35+ ac v on both yellow and white.

looks like another day of waiting.

Ill keep you posted on what I find after replacing RR/

and I found that the plug prior to entering the taillight harness is showing power to both brake lights and taillights without the brake handles being depressed, so I fear they are crossed somewhere else as well.

Any ideas as to the best place to look would be appreciated.

Oh shit, I think I caused a greater problem then.

I replaced the taillight with an led light and connected both the brake light and taillight lines to the positive feed, figuring I could get double duty from the light by doing that.

MEH

Today was the first day I actually rode the bike and headlights blew half way to work - now I know why.

I'll remove the brake line from the led , try to find replacement headlight bulbs locally, and give this a go again tomorrow or monday.

I assumed that the issue we were talking about was a green ground line getting shorted to a power line of some sort - kept wondering why the fuse didnt blow...

It seems I've learned just enough about electronics at this point to be able to maximize my own damage potential.

I was incorrect in that taillight blew - on examining closely it was just very very dim. I replaced taillight with an led bulb and now works.

Headlights work now after the RR exchange and adding that ground , but they still do grow brighter with brakes depressed and I havent even bothered to open up the dash and replace all those bulbs in there yet.

I am sure, as you are all, that theres a wiring issue.

The main concern for me, besides having spent 150 bucks already to have a shop look at it with no good result, is that I have taken the entire harness out four times now and gone over it visually and with a meter; I can find nothing wrong.

*I have made use of the schematics here and have even become somewhat proficient at reading them at this point ( woot inadvertent education!).

I swapped out the instrument dash right after they put in the new stator, so I wont say its not a wiring issue there, but I'd have to have really bad luck for it to be.

Is it possible that one of the gauges or switches is bad internally and causing this?

I'm just out of ideas as to how to trace this down at this point.

What would be the clues here given that:

1. BIke was fine and running well and lights working fine until it simply died on day.

2.Stator seemed to be fine when taking measurements with a meter and turning the engine over - but wasnt getting enough spark to start (assuming bad pickup).

Stator swap started bike up but that lights didnt function without brake handles depressed at this point and it seemed RR wasnt working correctly - swapped in both new stator and RR.



3. Instrument dash and its internal harness swapped out (used but assuming good parts).

4. Harness after many inspections seems to be correctly wired with no shorts (tested seven ways to sunday , four times outside of bike).

I suppose I could just rip out all the wiring, buy some rolls from the local electronics store and just hardwire all the electronics to it bypassing even the plugs -be a pain to replace stuff, but that may be my option if nothing else.

I'd like to be able to just isolate the lighting circuit from the harness all together and maybe just tap into the stator wires near the stator PRIOR to any other branching and then run that to its own independent RR.

Wouldn't this work? I mean, the fuse isnt blowing, the batteries charging, and I can live without instrument lights.

*And no, Im not ignoring the advice to do this right, but at this point I've lost nearly two full weeks of work and two hundred bucks because of this issue and if it continues I'll be out of a job soon with no savings.

I have to get this running one way or the other asap.

I had run a ground directly to the lights and the yellow feed directly to them as well, bypassing the harness.

It didnt seem to help- will check again when everythings off.

Tried that. I even took the entire taillight apart and checked wiring - found a single short but it wasnt the cause.

Ok, I assume I'll figure out the fundamentals of how that works once I start reading up, but it makes sense.

Slightly OT JR, but since you mentioned brake lights and the Y/G line - I tried to tie in a bulb that would light up when brakes were depressed (mostly because one of my handles sticks and I need to know when it happens), but simply putting a + end on Y/G and the negative on the other line cause it to be always on Unless brakes were applied and it went out.

Is this normal? Should I tie into the Y/G line and then a ground for that light?

TY btw for the explanation - I've been using several of your schematics as reference material during this rebuild; not sure if I'd have gotten far at all without those.