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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 23, 2012 5:28:54 GMT -6
This question came up in another thread, but I would like to ask the opinion of others, so I thought a new thread might be in order for it. This was posted in another thread: I'm running the NGK CR8HIX Iridium IX plug; from what I understand, the CR7HIX and the CR8HIX are identical, except for the fact that the CR7 is a hot plug, and the CR8 is a cold plug. The length and dimensions appear identical between the two. I did some searching on Google, and this is what the specs for both plugs are: CR7HIX:Thread Size: 10mm Reach: 12.7mm (1/2 inch) Hex Size: 16mm (5/8 inch) Gap: 0.7mm (.028 inch) NOTE: .028 inches is actually 0.7112 millimetersHeat Range: 7 CR8HIX:Thread Size: 10mm Reach: 12.7mm (1/2 inch) Hex Size: 16mm (5/8 inch) Gap: 0.7mm (.027 inch) NOTE: .027 inches is actually 0.6858 millimetersHeat Range: 8 So if the specs are identical, the CR8 isn't any longer, no?  I'm concerned that maybe the CR8HIX might be...detrimental to the engine, somehow? Maybe it is longer (which could damage the pistons), and sellers are just posting the specs for the CR7HIX on the CR8HIX? I even emailed NGK to see what they have to say (no response yet, they don't open until 8:30am EST.) But if the dimensions are identical, having a higher Heat Range is better, no? ------------- edit: Got a reply from NGK: Hello, They are the same plug, except for the heat range. The 7 is hotter than the 8. Best Regards, Andrew Hauenstein Technical & Training Specialist NGK Spark Plugs (USA), Inc Therefore, yep, using the CR8HIX is a better option, IMO. |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 23, 2012 5:08:18 GMT -6
Thanks! Someone else mentioned that the NGK CR 8HIX Iridium IX spark plug is "longer" than the CR7HIX, and could damage the pistons; from what I've read, they're identical in size/dimensions, just the CR7HIX is a hot plug, and the CR8HIX is a cold plug. I put the CR8HIX in last night, but now I'm a bit concerned that it could damage the engine - thinking maybe I should swap the stock NGK plug back in until I've confirmed it won't damage anything.  |
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Junior
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 19:08:15 GMT -6
No, all is well. I put the battery on a charger for over an hour, and she cranked right up. Don't know WHY that did the trick, but that's the only thing that explains it.
The NGK Iridium IX spark plug is in, the Keihin carb is installed, and she's idling normally. I'll be taking her out on the road tomorrow to test the a/f mixture under load, but it should be fine.
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Junior
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 15:23:44 GMT -6
If the kill switch is engaged, it doesn't even turn the engine over. The ground is fine as well from what I can tell.
This is VERY frustrating! It should have been an easy swap-out/swap-in, up-and-running. WTF...
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 13:08:32 GMT -6
With the standard NGK plug (which I just put back in), I see a very weak spark. With the NGK Iridium IX plug, I don't see a spark at all.
Don't see anything that's loose or not connected.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 10:51:36 GMT -6
I gotta be missing something. Worked with stock OEM carb; took off stock OEM, replaced with Keihin card: just turns over. Took off Keihin carb, put stock OEM carb back on, just turns over. Everything is routed the way it was when it was working.
Gas is getting to both carbs (the Keihin had gas in the float bowl.)
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 10:39:04 GMT -6
No petcock, the Taotao uses a fuel pump. I put the stock OEM carb back on, and it still won't crank. I put everything back the way it was, and no go.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 8:35:43 GMT -6
Exactly.  This is the replacement carb he recommended, so perhaps he might have some better insight. |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 8:00:22 GMT -6
I have, but can't figure it out.  Hoping alleyoop sees this and has some ideas, it's the carb he recommended. |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 7:13:12 GMT -6
So, I got the new 30mm Keihin carb on Friday, and since it's raining today, figured I'd pull the (replacement) stock carb off, and install the new one. Got everything hooked up, and...it turns over, but won't start. Possible reasons?  edit: It's a 24.50mm, NOT a 30mm. D'oh! |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 22, 2012 5:00:08 GMT -6
I'm looking for one myself. Needs to be back-lit so I can see it at night. I've found a couple on eBay, but no way to tell if the cheap ones are back-lit or not. I'd really prefer a round gauge, but the smallest I can find is 2", and there really isn't a place to mount it properly. |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 21, 2012 9:44:49 GMT -6
I sent them an email asking what would the corresponding Pulstar plugs be for the NGK CR7HSA plug (or the NGK Iridium CR7HIX [hot plug] or NGK Iridium CR8HIX [cold plug] versions.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 21, 2012 6:15:52 GMT -6
So, as someone else posted that they were planning to remove the EGR and block it off, I'm thinking of doing this as well. What would be the advantages/disadvantages to doing so? As I understand it, the GY6 engine uses a very basic EGR system, and uses anywhere from 10% to 30% vacuum to perform it. From reading about EGR, if the system is designed for the engine, it can be beneficial, but it looks like the EGR system put in place on the GY6 is a generic system slapped on to help the engine meet CA emissions standards. Thoughts? Opinions?  |
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 21, 2012 4:55:15 GMT -6
Got it. Now, more questions:
1. I've been reading about others removing the EGR. I think I may do that; I'll need to fashion the block-off plate(s), though (not terribly difficult.) Any cons to removing the EGR?
2. The stock carb is a 26mm (24mm?), and this Keihin is a 30mm. Does that mean the jets are larger than the stock? The reason I ask is that I'd like to dump the stock air intake and go with a K&N RC-1070 (or something similar) cone filter, both for looks, sound, and the additional air. I've read that you must re-jet when going with the cone filter over a stock airbox, and that you should "go up at least 2 sizes". Seems to me that if the new Keihin carb is ~6mm larger, it probably has larger jets already, no?
3. Still wondering about the higher-quality replacement intake manifold. IIRC, the double nipples on it, one of them is for the EGR - and if I remove that from the engine, I no longer need a double-nipple intake manifold, thus one of the higher-quality aftermarket ones would work. Not planning on replacing my intake manifold right away, but expecting it to crack and whatnot from the heat (engine + Florida summer), thus necessitating a replacement at some point.
4. Lastly, I think I will go with an NCY CDI, which should remove the rev limiter (if there is one on my 150cc), and advance the spark timing. Are there different versions of the NCY? I've seen several places selling them, with vastly different prices (anywhere from $19.99, $29.99, $34.99, up to $69.99!)
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 20, 2012 9:04:59 GMT -6
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